Won't start!
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Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 58
Likes: 1
From: Victorville Ca
Won't start!
I have a c4 corvette that will not start. When I turn the ignition there is a buzzing or a clicking sound. There is a brand new battery in the car putting out 550 cca or 685 amps at 32f. Connections to the bat are clean and secure. Fuses are also good. The car started fine with the last battery than sat for about 2 months now nothing with a new battery. I'm going to clean the contacts on the key for the chip. Beyond that I'm at a loss. Getting tired of this car and am considering selling it! I like driving it but am tired of chasing the gremlin that lives in the engine! Any advice as to why it will not start?
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 113
Likes: 17
From: Fayetteville GA
The key contacts are not the problem. If the connections to the starter are also clean and secure, look to the starter relay or starter solenoid for the problem. My money would be on the starter solenoid.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2015
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But would clean all connections and grounds and cables first. And smack the starter if that works I would rebuild the sticky solinoid. 
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 1,332
Likes: 397
From: Clay New York
Won't start
Yes, try hitting the solenoid...but I've never had any luck doing that. But check the solenoid connections and make sure they're clean and tight. A lot of crap can get thrown up there over the years.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 10,036
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From: Anaheim CA
Classic symptom of a bad battery cable connection or weak battery.
Don't forget that battery cables have TWO ends. Both ends must have good connections to make the starter work. Check the positive battery cable where it attaches to the solenoid. Also check the negative battery cable where it attaches to the block (above the oil filter).
Don't forget that battery cables have TWO ends. Both ends must have good connections to make the starter work. Check the positive battery cable where it attaches to the solenoid. Also check the negative battery cable where it attaches to the block (above the oil filter).
Last edited by Cliff Harris; Feb 20, 2017 at 01:54 AM.
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Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 58
Likes: 1
From: Victorville Ca
Car won't start.
I have some success tapping the starter with a hammer. After doing this and cleaning the battery terminals, the car now clicks rapidly and the dash lights up. It still will not turn over. The battery reads 12.65 volts. Could this be a bad relay? There are four of them near the battery.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction.
St. Jude '03 thru '24
The car clicks rapidly? When your cranking the engine or when the switch is in the run position?
Those relays are for other purposes.
Double check the clutch switch for sure.
Those relays are for other purposes.
Double check the clutch switch for sure.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 1,072
Likes: 48
From: Henderson Nevada
Similar problem here.
Today I replaced the battery expecting the car would start, but alas it didn't. It clicks but doesn't try turning over. Seems like a classic dead battery by the symptoms. The new battery was only showing 12.0 so I charged it up (now at 12.5-12.6) but same thing. Accessory power works fine.
Should I just follow the advice mentioned above? Mine's a '94 A4 that was running like butter before the non-start. For a few months it seemed the battery was dying (would drop below 12v after sitting and sometimes take 2 or 3 key turns to turn over). When I would charge it overnight, it would fire up instantly the next day, until this week when it won't.
Should I just follow the advice mentioned above? Mine's a '94 A4 that was running like butter before the non-start. For a few months it seemed the battery was dying (would drop below 12v after sitting and sometimes take 2 or 3 key turns to turn over). When I would charge it overnight, it would fire up instantly the next day, until this week when it won't.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 781
Likes: 73
As previously stated, battery cables have two ends. Have you checked the connections at the starter as well as all the grounding points?
Also need to check the continuity of he cables themselves. I have seen instances of cables corroding inside the sheathing.
Also need to check the continuity of he cables themselves. I have seen instances of cables corroding inside the sheathing.
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 17,329
Likes: 6,509
From: Melbourne, FL
My 92 has put me through the gamut of no start conditions, so I have some experience in this. :-)
If you turn the key and get no noise, I would check the trigger to the starter. The easiest way to check this is to get under the car and jump the positive on the starter to the trigger terminal. If it spins the engine over, it's the trigger to the starter, so run a new one.
If you turn the key and get a loud clu k but no engine spinning, your starter may be bad, or the trigger wore may be nearly dead.
If you turn the key and the engine turns but never starts, it could be a whole host of issues. Then it falls in eother spark or fuel issues (hard to not have air).
If you turn the key and get no noise, I would check the trigger to the starter. The easiest way to check this is to get under the car and jump the positive on the starter to the trigger terminal. If it spins the engine over, it's the trigger to the starter, so run a new one.
If you turn the key and get a loud clu k but no engine spinning, your starter may be bad, or the trigger wore may be nearly dead.
If you turn the key and the engine turns but never starts, it could be a whole host of issues. Then it falls in eother spark or fuel issues (hard to not have air).
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 1,072
Likes: 48
From: Henderson Nevada
My 92 has put me through the gamut of no start conditions, so I have some experience in this. :-)
If you turn the key and get no noise, I would check the trigger to the starter. The easiest way to check this is to get under the car and jump the positive on the starter to the trigger terminal. If it spins the engine over, it's the trigger to the starter, so run a new one.
If you turn the key and get a loud clu k but no engine spinning, your starter may be bad, or the trigger wore may be nearly dead.
If you turn the key and the engine turns but never starts, it could be a whole host of issues. Then it falls in eother spark or fuel issues (hard to not have air).
If you turn the key and get no noise, I would check the trigger to the starter. The easiest way to check this is to get under the car and jump the positive on the starter to the trigger terminal. If it spins the engine over, it's the trigger to the starter, so run a new one.
If you turn the key and get a loud clu k but no engine spinning, your starter may be bad, or the trigger wore may be nearly dead.
If you turn the key and the engine turns but never starts, it could be a whole host of issues. Then it falls in eother spark or fuel issues (hard to not have air).
Today mine went like this:
Turn 1: Click, nothing.
Turn 2: Click, nothing.
Turn 3: Click, whirring sound, no engine turn (starter spinning and failing?).
Turn 4: Fired right up and idled smoothly.
One note: When I test the battery terminals (cables installed) with my multimeter, it cuts in and out. Sometimes its getting 0.0-0.1 and other times its getting 12.6ish. Would that be a symptom of a cable/terminal problem? No visible corrosion and don't appear very dirty.
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 17,329
Likes: 6,509
From: Melbourne, FL
That's a pretty concise breakdown.
Today mine went like this:
Turn 1: Click, nothing.
Turn 2: Click, nothing.
Turn 3: Click, whirring sound, no engine turn (starter spinning and failing?).
Turn 4: Fired right up and idled smoothly.
One note: When I test the battery terminals (cables installed) with my multimeter, it cuts in and out. Sometimes its getting 0.0-0.1 and other times its getting 12.6ish. Would that be a symptom of a cable/terminal problem? No visible corrosion and don't appear very dirty.
Today mine went like this:
Turn 1: Click, nothing.
Turn 2: Click, nothing.
Turn 3: Click, whirring sound, no engine turn (starter spinning and failing?).
Turn 4: Fired right up and idled smoothly.
One note: When I test the battery terminals (cables installed) with my multimeter, it cuts in and out. Sometimes its getting 0.0-0.1 and other times its getting 12.6ish. Would that be a symptom of a cable/terminal problem? No visible corrosion and don't appear very dirty.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 1,072
Likes: 48
From: Henderson Nevada
Haven't had a chance to get under the car (I'll be doing that in a couple days) but I did the headlights test. The lights flicker dim for a split second during the click, so they don't shut off or stay completely bright. The car fires up about 50% of the time (either fires right up or a click and nothing). Has me thinking solenoid, but when I get under there I'll be checking the connections and grounds too.