Tirekicking-buyers vs sellers
03-02-2017, 11:47 AM
#1
Tirekicking-buyers vs sellers
So I am in a unique position as a buyer. The situation is that I already own a c4 87 and I plan to be extremely picky about purchasing 2 more vettes. I have room in my shop for 3, and I plan on kicking tires. half of the thrill for this adventure is going to be the chase, and I don't mind dragging it out for a few years. I don't want to waste anyone's time with unrealistic expectations or propositions on a car that I don't intend to buy but I do plan on getting some nice cars at way under market value and I will wait till this is the case. just thought I would throw it out there to hear the positives and negatives from both sides. I don't mind harsh comments from sellers who are dealing with people like me, let me have it cause I wanna know what to expect.
Below is a compilation guide to buying cheap contributed to by many in this tread and still evolving with future edits in route.
A midlife crisis guide to gettin yo ride!
Disclaimer: The content herein neither guarantees nor appropriates acquisition of an affordable or reliable automobile. You may get hosed on the price, your car could implode or self-destruct at any time, and you may not acquire a car at all. Midlife will not be responsible for any bruises, black eyes or foul words you may encounter from disgruntled sellers, you will have to seek legal recourse on your own time. This expose was written on a computer that has had peanuts and tree nuts spilled on it. No animals were harmed in the production of this expose. All rights reserved.
When setting out to buy your dream car you will encounter many types of sellers. You are looking to encounter a guy who knows cars and is willing to let you test drive and haggle the price. Be upfront about your expectations and be ready to buy if they are met. Buying a car at a great deal is known as lowballing. Many sellers will be disgruntled by this tactic because they may have a lot invested in their car, be waiting on it to appreciate in value, and be having a hard time getting fair market value in the current market.
Cash money in your pocket may help seal the deal when lowballing a seller. This tactic is unlikely to work on sellers who are well off. If the said seller has 30,000 dollars in the bank he could care less that you are offering him 10,000 dollars on his 15000-dollar car when he is just going to deposit it after he is paid. Having said that if a seller is motivated to sell cash may seal the deal. The seller may have already been told before that somebody will get to the bank to get a check only to never be heard from again. Having hard cash in your pocket seals the deal at the moment, just make sure you fill out a legitimate bill of sale with a valid title in the seller’s name and it’s also a good idea to photocopy a driver’s license. If you really want to play hardball and the family or spouse is looking on at the negotiation make sure they see the cash money as well. Keep in mind that walking around with 10-20k dollars in your pocket can get you robbed very quickly and take the appropriate precautions.
Banks are a better and safer option for transactions when buying a car. If you are dealing with a seller who you are making a larger transaction with your best bet is to locate the nearest branch of your bank and meet there. This lowers the likelihood that you will get robbed as the transaction will take place in a more secure environment and you will not have to carry cash. This also gives you the chance to have the transaction witnessed and notarized in case the sale ever comes into question.
Midlife recommends a wot test as long as it is carried out in a manner that is safe to yourself and everyone else around you and abides by local laws and regulations. This can often identify any weakness in the drivetrain on test driving. Midlife recommends that after wot test and warm up drive that the car is parked, left running and inspected for leaks. Many sellers will not be accepting of these tests. This may incur a greater cost and time consulting a mechanic for an inspection and testing of the drive train for solidity so proceed at you own desire. In any case look for seller comments like no joyrides, and no tire kicking, they probably won’t be accepting of midlife tactics and are best avoided. unless you are looking for a parts car use whatever tactic necessary to make sure the car you are buying is mechanically sound.
Another tactic when lowballing a car is the good cop bad cop shadow buyer. These tactics are less than kosher but have been reported as effective. This is where the buyer has a friend go in either in person, on the phone or buy email and makes truly low and never going to be accepted offers, then after the seller has been prepped with the onslaught of terrible offers the buyer goes in with a lowball offer that is palatable and seems ok. While midlife doesn’t condone this tactic, its was reported to him as effective and felt it necessary to include in the report.
The predator may become the prey. There are a lotta flippers out there who have just done what you are proposing to do and your tactics will be futile on them. These can be identified by making sure that the said buyer has had the car for a while and has indeed put some miles on it. Good tools to employee are car fax and the viewing of maintenance receipts. This will give you a better idea of how long the seller has owned the car as well as if they have taken care of it.
Timing is everything. most families don’t have enough savings to make it longer than six months without gainful employment. This leads to family’s spending increasing around the spring when they get their tax returns and decreasing during the fall when they have depleted their funds for Christmas. Humans are creatures of habit and want things when they need them so a convertible is going to be most desirable in the spring, you want to buy it when it’s in the garage for the winter and the old man has just blown his wad on a new black Friday big screen.
Sometimes it may be to your advantage to buy a car that is mechanically impaired if you are mechanically inclined. It is reported that having a hauler is very effective in getting good deals if you are willing to buy a car that doesn’t run. Often times sellers just want the car gone and you can be the hero lowballer that tows it away. U-Haul or other rental services are also a good option if you don’t want to invest in a trailer.
Besides the flipper there are two categories of sellers out there. There is the seller who wants to sell. This guy has money in the bank and isn’t hurting for anything. He is probably type a and loathes guys like you. Although he doesn’t employee your tactics when purchasing cars he recognizes them and will be 6 feet under before he falls for them. He will be upset that you will try to lowball him or waste his time test-driving his car and definitely will not be open to wot test. He is a good guy to purchase from if you are willing to pay fair market value. Look for cues in the telephone conversation when talking to the sellers and avoid this seller when using lowball tactics.
The second kind of seller is the seller who needs to sell. Maybe he needs to pay some bills. Maybe he got laid off. Maybe he’s got three kids and car seats and cant drive the midlife car anymore. Maybe his wife is angry that she doesn’t have a parking space in the garage. Maybe the project that never got done will never get done. Whatever the case use tactics to identify these guys over the phone, he is the one. Looks for cues in the listing like OBO (or best offer). This will give you an idea of whether or not the buyer is willing to negotiate before you even call.
Midlife tactics will include a pricing guide so you know how low to set the ball. Midlife’s choice of guides is Kelly blue book, choose the one you are comfortable with and price the car you will be lowballing at market value. Midlife recommends an initial offer of 60% of market value, followed by a 65% offer and a final 70% offer if you really want the car. Have the predetermined amount of cash in your pocket so that you can show that is “all you have”. Leave the deal open ended and walk if they do not accept, tell them to call if they change their mind and Tax them at least 500 for your time if they call back saying “had to spend some of it a bill came up”. You may proceed at a lower percentage of market value at you own leisure but even midlife wont sink this low. Remember to identify the seller as much as possible over the phone as one who will bend, and don’t waste you’re time on the sellers who won’t bend. As with any financial transactions it is best not to mix business with family or friends and employee these tactics on sellers that you will not encounter again once the transaction is complete.
Below is a compilation guide to buying cheap contributed to by many in this tread and still evolving with future edits in route.
A midlife crisis guide to gettin yo ride!
Disclaimer: The content herein neither guarantees nor appropriates acquisition of an affordable or reliable automobile. You may get hosed on the price, your car could implode or self-destruct at any time, and you may not acquire a car at all. Midlife will not be responsible for any bruises, black eyes or foul words you may encounter from disgruntled sellers, you will have to seek legal recourse on your own time. This expose was written on a computer that has had peanuts and tree nuts spilled on it. No animals were harmed in the production of this expose. All rights reserved.
When setting out to buy your dream car you will encounter many types of sellers. You are looking to encounter a guy who knows cars and is willing to let you test drive and haggle the price. Be upfront about your expectations and be ready to buy if they are met. Buying a car at a great deal is known as lowballing. Many sellers will be disgruntled by this tactic because they may have a lot invested in their car, be waiting on it to appreciate in value, and be having a hard time getting fair market value in the current market.
Cash money in your pocket may help seal the deal when lowballing a seller. This tactic is unlikely to work on sellers who are well off. If the said seller has 30,000 dollars in the bank he could care less that you are offering him 10,000 dollars on his 15000-dollar car when he is just going to deposit it after he is paid. Having said that if a seller is motivated to sell cash may seal the deal. The seller may have already been told before that somebody will get to the bank to get a check only to never be heard from again. Having hard cash in your pocket seals the deal at the moment, just make sure you fill out a legitimate bill of sale with a valid title in the seller’s name and it’s also a good idea to photocopy a driver’s license. If you really want to play hardball and the family or spouse is looking on at the negotiation make sure they see the cash money as well. Keep in mind that walking around with 10-20k dollars in your pocket can get you robbed very quickly and take the appropriate precautions.
Banks are a better and safer option for transactions when buying a car. If you are dealing with a seller who you are making a larger transaction with your best bet is to locate the nearest branch of your bank and meet there. This lowers the likelihood that you will get robbed as the transaction will take place in a more secure environment and you will not have to carry cash. This also gives you the chance to have the transaction witnessed and notarized in case the sale ever comes into question.
Midlife recommends a wot test as long as it is carried out in a manner that is safe to yourself and everyone else around you and abides by local laws and regulations. This can often identify any weakness in the drivetrain on test driving. Midlife recommends that after wot test and warm up drive that the car is parked, left running and inspected for leaks. Many sellers will not be accepting of these tests. This may incur a greater cost and time consulting a mechanic for an inspection and testing of the drive train for solidity so proceed at you own desire. In any case look for seller comments like no joyrides, and no tire kicking, they probably won’t be accepting of midlife tactics and are best avoided. unless you are looking for a parts car use whatever tactic necessary to make sure the car you are buying is mechanically sound.
Another tactic when lowballing a car is the good cop bad cop shadow buyer. These tactics are less than kosher but have been reported as effective. This is where the buyer has a friend go in either in person, on the phone or buy email and makes truly low and never going to be accepted offers, then after the seller has been prepped with the onslaught of terrible offers the buyer goes in with a lowball offer that is palatable and seems ok. While midlife doesn’t condone this tactic, its was reported to him as effective and felt it necessary to include in the report.
The predator may become the prey. There are a lotta flippers out there who have just done what you are proposing to do and your tactics will be futile on them. These can be identified by making sure that the said buyer has had the car for a while and has indeed put some miles on it. Good tools to employee are car fax and the viewing of maintenance receipts. This will give you a better idea of how long the seller has owned the car as well as if they have taken care of it.
Timing is everything. most families don’t have enough savings to make it longer than six months without gainful employment. This leads to family’s spending increasing around the spring when they get their tax returns and decreasing during the fall when they have depleted their funds for Christmas. Humans are creatures of habit and want things when they need them so a convertible is going to be most desirable in the spring, you want to buy it when it’s in the garage for the winter and the old man has just blown his wad on a new black Friday big screen.
Sometimes it may be to your advantage to buy a car that is mechanically impaired if you are mechanically inclined. It is reported that having a hauler is very effective in getting good deals if you are willing to buy a car that doesn’t run. Often times sellers just want the car gone and you can be the hero lowballer that tows it away. U-Haul or other rental services are also a good option if you don’t want to invest in a trailer.
Besides the flipper there are two categories of sellers out there. There is the seller who wants to sell. This guy has money in the bank and isn’t hurting for anything. He is probably type a and loathes guys like you. Although he doesn’t employee your tactics when purchasing cars he recognizes them and will be 6 feet under before he falls for them. He will be upset that you will try to lowball him or waste his time test-driving his car and definitely will not be open to wot test. He is a good guy to purchase from if you are willing to pay fair market value. Look for cues in the telephone conversation when talking to the sellers and avoid this seller when using lowball tactics.
The second kind of seller is the seller who needs to sell. Maybe he needs to pay some bills. Maybe he got laid off. Maybe he’s got three kids and car seats and cant drive the midlife car anymore. Maybe his wife is angry that she doesn’t have a parking space in the garage. Maybe the project that never got done will never get done. Whatever the case use tactics to identify these guys over the phone, he is the one. Looks for cues in the listing like OBO (or best offer). This will give you an idea of whether or not the buyer is willing to negotiate before you even call.
Midlife tactics will include a pricing guide so you know how low to set the ball. Midlife’s choice of guides is Kelly blue book, choose the one you are comfortable with and price the car you will be lowballing at market value. Midlife recommends an initial offer of 60% of market value, followed by a 65% offer and a final 70% offer if you really want the car. Have the predetermined amount of cash in your pocket so that you can show that is “all you have”. Leave the deal open ended and walk if they do not accept, tell them to call if they change their mind and Tax them at least 500 for your time if they call back saying “had to spend some of it a bill came up”. You may proceed at a lower percentage of market value at you own leisure but even midlife wont sink this low. Remember to identify the seller as much as possible over the phone as one who will bend, and don’t waste you’re time on the sellers who won’t bend. As with any financial transactions it is best not to mix business with family or friends and employee these tactics on sellers that you will not encounter again once the transaction is complete.
Last edited by midlifecrisis1979; 03-07-2017 at 06:03 PM.
03-02-2017, 11:56 AM
#2
Melting Slicks
No harshness from me - you ask an honest question.
I think there are three types of Vette sellers:
1) They guy who knows what he has: This is a guy selling a very nice or possibly rare Vette. Its been well cared for, well documented, well maintained, and has some nice options, low miles, etc. This is the Vette we ALL want. But if the guy knows what he has - he isn't going to appreciate a tire-kicker or low ballers. Those are the types of Vettes, you better know what they are worth up front, and haggle a bit from there...cause if you insult him - your gone!
2) The guy who THINKS he has it ALL: This is a guy selling a Vette that has "annoying" things wrong with it...like a small area of faded paint, a small rip in the leather, a bent antenna, etc. Things that you know drop the value, will cost a ton of money to fix, but hes asking $15,000 for it and it has 110,000 miles. This is the guy who BRAGS the car has power seats. This guy you can try to haggle with, but in the end, is it a Vette you really want? This guy would also let Charles Manson test drive his car - he just wants it sold and off his driveway.
3) The guy who knows Vettes, knows the CURRENT value of his car, wants to sell it, will allow a SERIOUS buyer to test drive it, will haggle down to a fair price, but wont give it away...this is hopefully the seller we all want to encounter.
I think there are three types of Vette sellers:
1) They guy who knows what he has: This is a guy selling a very nice or possibly rare Vette. Its been well cared for, well documented, well maintained, and has some nice options, low miles, etc. This is the Vette we ALL want. But if the guy knows what he has - he isn't going to appreciate a tire-kicker or low ballers. Those are the types of Vettes, you better know what they are worth up front, and haggle a bit from there...cause if you insult him - your gone!
2) The guy who THINKS he has it ALL: This is a guy selling a Vette that has "annoying" things wrong with it...like a small area of faded paint, a small rip in the leather, a bent antenna, etc. Things that you know drop the value, will cost a ton of money to fix, but hes asking $15,000 for it and it has 110,000 miles. This is the guy who BRAGS the car has power seats. This guy you can try to haggle with, but in the end, is it a Vette you really want? This guy would also let Charles Manson test drive his car - he just wants it sold and off his driveway.
3) The guy who knows Vettes, knows the CURRENT value of his car, wants to sell it, will allow a SERIOUS buyer to test drive it, will haggle down to a fair price, but wont give it away...this is hopefully the seller we all want to encounter.
Last edited by Mayor111; 03-02-2017 at 12:01 PM.
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deagonkennels (03-04-2017)
03-02-2017, 12:08 PM
#3
Team Owner
Member Since: Dec 2012
Location: Outside the Quick Stop N.J.
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Just be upfront and honest with the buyer of any car that you go to look at. Tell the seller what you are looking for, and be prepared to buy if you do find what you want. Most Corvette people that I have met love to talk about their cars. As long as you do not go and test drive/inspect a car for hours then tell the seller "Let me think about it/ask my wife.", you should be fine.
03-02-2017, 12:27 PM
#4
No harshness from me - you ask an honest question.
I think there are three types of Vette sellers:
1) They guy who knows what he has: This is a guy selling a very nice or possibly rare Vette. Its been well cared for, well documented, well maintained, and has some nice options, low miles, etc. This is the Vette we ALL want. But if the guy knows what he has - he isn't going to appreciate a tire-kicker or low ballers. Those are the types of Vettes, you better know what they are worth up front, and haggle a bit from there...cause if you insult him - your gone!
2) The guy who THINKS he has it ALL: This is a guy selling a Vette that has "annoying" things wrong with it...like a small area of faded paint, a small rip in the leather, a bent antenna, etc. Things that you know drop the value, will cost a ton of money to fix, but hes asking $15,000 for it and it has 110,000 miles. This is the guy who BRAGS the car has power seats. This guy you can try to haggle with, but in the end, is it a Vette you really want? This guy would also let Charles Manson test drive his car - he just wants it sold and off his driveway.
3) The guy who knows Vettes, knows the CURRENT value of his car, wants to sell it, will allow a SERIOUS buyer to test drive it, will haggle down to a fair price, but wont give it away...this is hopefully the seller we all want to encounter.
I think there are three types of Vette sellers:
1) They guy who knows what he has: This is a guy selling a very nice or possibly rare Vette. Its been well cared for, well documented, well maintained, and has some nice options, low miles, etc. This is the Vette we ALL want. But if the guy knows what he has - he isn't going to appreciate a tire-kicker or low ballers. Those are the types of Vettes, you better know what they are worth up front, and haggle a bit from there...cause if you insult him - your gone!
2) The guy who THINKS he has it ALL: This is a guy selling a Vette that has "annoying" things wrong with it...like a small area of faded paint, a small rip in the leather, a bent antenna, etc. Things that you know drop the value, will cost a ton of money to fix, but hes asking $15,000 for it and it has 110,000 miles. This is the guy who BRAGS the car has power seats. This guy you can try to haggle with, but in the end, is it a Vette you really want? This guy would also let Charles Manson test drive his car - he just wants it sold and off his driveway.
3) The guy who knows Vettes, knows the CURRENT value of his car, wants to sell it, will allow a SERIOUS buyer to test drive it, will haggle down to a fair price, but wont give it away...this is hopefully the seller we all want to encounter.
03-02-2017, 12:32 PM
#5
Just be upfront and honest with the buyer of any car that you go to look at. Tell the seller what you are looking for, and be prepared to buy if you do find what you want. Most Corvette people that I have met love to talk about their cars. As long as you do not go and test drive/inspect a car for hours then tell the seller "Let me think about it/ask my wife.", you should be fine.
03-02-2017, 01:19 PM
#6
Melting Slicks
Then there are the so-called buyers that want something for nothing. You know the type even when you are under what the car is worth they still want to low ball and waste time.
They call/message you tell you the car is more than they want to spend...........hmmm you knew that why did you bother me?
They call/message you tell you the car is more than they want to spend...........hmmm you knew that why did you bother me?
03-02-2017, 01:30 PM
#7
Some may let you see it or even go for a drive may ask for a 20 or lunch.
Be honest
Also be ready for a few cuss words here and there if they think youre wasting their time
Personally unless you are really ready dont bother anyone imo
Havent had anything but lowballers. Not offering a few k....or 5k less but less than 1/3.
As these get older less are in great shape
Sometimes its worth paying the money for the right one if youre picky not saying everyone doesnt want the best deal. Theres a line somewhere in there where everyones happy.
Got an email from some idiot on ebay who said he wasnt even looking for a car sent me a link to some chromed out roach on ebay with a link and cussed me out as mine was listed for more.
Must have been his or watched one to many overhaulin episodes.
Someitmes say a death or extreme illness can net you a fair deal
Money wont make any difference to a point, living that one
03-02-2017, 01:36 PM
#8
Then there are the so-called buyers that want something for nothing. You know the type even when you are under what the car is worth they still want to low ball and waste time.
They call/message you tell you the car is more than they want to spend...........hmmm you knew that why did you bother me?
They call/message you tell you the car is more than they want to spend...........hmmm you knew that why did you bother me?
03-02-2017, 01:59 PM
#9
just to give you guys an idea of what I have in mind a 2000 model with around 70000 miles and in the top 3% of condition (KBBs top rating) books for around 13k at private party value. I will be looking to grab this car for say 8-9k.
03-02-2017, 02:12 PM
#10
this same tactic would put me at offering 12-14k for a zr1. I'm thinking this would be the harder buy because most of these cars are already in the hands of collectors. I will be actively pursuing the Dailey driver first though so no worries. the zr1 would not be my Dailey driver, just garage queen that gets driven to shows.
03-02-2017, 04:06 PM
#11
Burning Brakes
this same tactic would put me at offering 12-14k for a zr1. I'm thinking this would be the harder buy because most of these cars are already in the hands of collectors. I will be actively pursuing the Dailey driver first though so no worries. the zr1 would not be my Dailey driver, just garage queen that gets driven to shows.
Last edited by jay23ls; 03-02-2017 at 04:07 PM.
03-02-2017, 04:10 PM
#12
So I am in a unique position as a buyer. The situation is that I already own a c4 87 and I plan to be extremely picky about purchasing 2 more vettes. I have room in my shop for 3, and I plan on kicking tires. half of the thrill for this adventure is going to be the chase, and I don't mind dragging it out for a few years. I don't want to waste anyone's time with unrealistic expectations or propositions on a car that I don't intend to buy but I do plan on getting some nice cars at way under market value and I will wait till this is the case. just thought I would throw it out there to hear the positives and negatives from both sides. I don't mind harsh comments from sellers who are dealing with people like me, let me have it cause I wanna know what to expect.
subbed, hopefully you will come back and tell stories.
03-02-2017, 05:06 PM
#13
Melting Slicks
No harshness from me - you ask an honest question.
I think there are three types of Vette sellers:
1) They guy who knows what he has: This is a guy selling a very nice or possibly rare Vette. Its been well cared for, well documented, well maintained, and has some nice options, low miles, etc. This is the Vette we ALL want. But if the guy knows what he has - he isn't going to appreciate a tire-kicker or low ballers. Those are the types of Vettes, you better know what they are worth up front, and haggle a bit from there...cause if you insult him - your gone!
2) The guy who THINKS he has it ALL: This is a guy selling a Vette that has "annoying" things wrong with it...like a small area of faded paint, a small rip in the leather, a bent antenna, etc. Things that you know drop the value, will cost a ton of money to fix, but hes asking $15,000 for it and it has 110,000 miles. This is the guy who BRAGS the car has power seats. This guy you can try to haggle with, but in the end, is it a Vette you really want? This guy would also let Charles Manson test drive his car - he just wants it sold and off his driveway.
3) The guy who knows Vettes, knows the CURRENT value of his car, wants to sell it, will allow a SERIOUS buyer to test drive it, will haggle down to a fair price, but wont give it away...this is hopefully the seller we all want to encounter.
I think there are three types of Vette sellers:
1) They guy who knows what he has: This is a guy selling a very nice or possibly rare Vette. Its been well cared for, well documented, well maintained, and has some nice options, low miles, etc. This is the Vette we ALL want. But if the guy knows what he has - he isn't going to appreciate a tire-kicker or low ballers. Those are the types of Vettes, you better know what they are worth up front, and haggle a bit from there...cause if you insult him - your gone!
2) The guy who THINKS he has it ALL: This is a guy selling a Vette that has "annoying" things wrong with it...like a small area of faded paint, a small rip in the leather, a bent antenna, etc. Things that you know drop the value, will cost a ton of money to fix, but hes asking $15,000 for it and it has 110,000 miles. This is the guy who BRAGS the car has power seats. This guy you can try to haggle with, but in the end, is it a Vette you really want? This guy would also let Charles Manson test drive his car - he just wants it sold and off his driveway.
3) The guy who knows Vettes, knows the CURRENT value of his car, wants to sell it, will allow a SERIOUS buyer to test drive it, will haggle down to a fair price, but wont give it away...this is hopefully the seller we all want to encounter.
Been waiting all winter and have two more months just to see the car. It's a 92 and sounds like one of those 'your not going to find a nicer one'. 46,000 miles, family car since new. He's asking $9.5k. If it's really as mint as I think, I may offer him $9k. Then again, I may just offer him what he wants. No low balling. Like you said, he knows what he has and he's offering it to me for a fair price. I'm sure if I offered him $8k, that would be the end of it.
03-02-2017, 05:08 PM
#14
Melting Slicks
Sellers are almost always willing to come down on their firm price if you have cash in your pocket. Offering to pay the seller for the car *right now* can grease the wheels quite a bit... especially if you are perfectly happy to walk away with your cash if they aren't willing to make a deal. The only (obvious) catch is, you need to find out quickly if this is the car you really want before you say "cash or I walk" to the seller.
You said "I do plan on getting some nice cars at way under market value" which prompts my comment.
You said "I do plan on getting some nice cars at way under market value" which prompts my comment.
Last edited by DGXR; 03-02-2017 at 05:12 PM.
03-02-2017, 05:30 PM
#16
Melting Slicks
1992 excellent condition. $7k? I wish, not in these parts. Been looking for Months. $7k would be one with 145,000 miles, torn seats and who knows what kind of money pit it will become.
03-02-2017, 05:32 PM
#17
Melting Slicks
Sellers are almost always willing to come down on their firm price if you have cash in your pocket. Offering to pay the seller for the car *right now* can grease the wheels quite a bit... especially if you are perfectly happy to walk away with your cash if they aren't willing to make a deal. The only (obvious) catch is, you need to find out quickly if this is the car you really want before you say "cash or I walk" to the seller.
You said "I do plan on getting some nice cars at way under market value" which prompts my comment.
You said "I do plan on getting some nice cars at way under market value" which prompts my comment.
What difference does cash make? So a seller can't wait a couple day's for a bank draft?
03-02-2017, 06:50 PM
#19
Team Owner
Member Since: Oct 2004
Location: altered state
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St. Jude Donor '05
Op suggestion
Rather than wasting years of your life and wasting others time
Put out a couple Want To Buy ads online
List exactly what you want, expect and top dollar youll pay let it be known you are firm.
Worked for me a few times, others word of mouth usually nets a nice find for a "keeper" and noone gets their feelings hurt.
If you are serious and ready to buy thats about as easy as it gets, the car finding you.
Nobody that owns a proper car esp a sport car does NOT know it. May have a situation that gets you what you want though!
Know one or two guys that buys the way you want. He has a few different emails sends out a half dozen email low ***** a day every once in awhile it works he takes a LOT of chit.
On the ones that take he sends from antoher address waits til he gets there offers a little more than the "email lowballers" and takes the car home. Its shady but he lives with it I guess
Rather than wasting years of your life and wasting others time
Put out a couple Want To Buy ads online
List exactly what you want, expect and top dollar youll pay let it be known you are firm.
Worked for me a few times, others word of mouth usually nets a nice find for a "keeper" and noone gets their feelings hurt.
If you are serious and ready to buy thats about as easy as it gets, the car finding you.
Nobody that owns a proper car esp a sport car does NOT know it. May have a situation that gets you what you want though!
Know one or two guys that buys the way you want. He has a few different emails sends out a half dozen email low ***** a day every once in awhile it works he takes a LOT of chit.
On the ones that take he sends from antoher address waits til he gets there offers a little more than the "email lowballers" and takes the car home. Its shady but he lives with it I guess
Last edited by cv67; 03-02-2017 at 07:08 PM.
03-02-2017, 07:14 PM
#20
Pro
Cash makes all the difference in the world. It locks the deal in on the spot. If a buyer tells you he will be back in like 2 days with a bank check that's two days that he could find another deal or his wife could tell him no...or any other excuse. People desperate to sell will jump on a lower amount with cash because they know it will all be over in a minute...not spending the next two days hoping the buyer won't back out.
Last edited by Edv92c4; 03-02-2017 at 07:15 PM. Reason: Wrong word