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Do you guys run any special brake fluid, anything interesting about brands or is it all the same stuff? Need to flush the system on my 89 as the fluid is pretty dark. I'm curious to hear your responses and if there's actually any data about this sort of thing
Dont over think it. If you are just street use any DOT3 you put in will be better than fluid that has turned dark. Just use a fresh bottle that you break the seal on and you are good to go.... Hmmm. Lets say good to stop in this case.
I've always used Valvoline Synthetic Brake Fluid in my vehicles. Never regretted it.
I use this too. It's slightly more than the generic brands, with better boiling points. Has held up to track days, autocross, daily driving, everything. I don't mind the slightly higher price if it's the 2 bucks that keeps me from losing brakes. Works good for clutch fluid too, and is sold st basically every auto parts store.
Dot 4 Prestone works for me. Walmart has a great price on this fluid.
And that is it. A great price on the fluid that works better than DOT 3.
I don't know about your cars but Mercedes recommends a complete flush every 2 years. When I do it, I spend a week to do the job. 3 MB sedans and 1 C4 and 1 Ford Excursion and all evening jobs.
Suck out all the fluid in the reservoir, fill it, try to swish it around and suck it out again. Fill it and I use my pressure bleeder to do the job. Pressurize the system and leave it. Go to the right location, open bleeder till it comes clearer. Go to the next and so on.
Do yourself a favor and make sure you can get all your bleeders open before you start. They can freeze up solid and you could need to replace a caliper. If you are doing this alone you might want to look into a set of speed bleeders.
Agree...and don't over tighten the bleeders, snug is good! Also if you don't have one buy a mighty vac. Makes it a one person job.
FWIW...used Dot 5 on a 1959 Bugeye Sprite restoration with a complete new hydraulic system. That stuff is good as it doesn't eat the paint but very tough to bleed as you get micro bubbles and very tough get out.
If it doesn't come out easily, FOR THE LOVE OF GOD, DON'T FORCE IT. Ask me how I know. Heat it up and melt candle wax on the threads while it is hot and try again.
I'd take it out completely and clean with a small wire brush both threads.
Personally I would buy a power flush unit from Motive Products. Buy adapter for all your cars. I did and flush all regularly. Pump it up, open the bleeder till you are happy. No pumping
For a good DOT3 fluid look at Castrol LMA or Valvoline Synthetic. These two fluids have wet boiling points at the upper end of the DOT3 scale.
For a decent DOT4 fluid, look at ATE TYP200 (ATE Super Blue has been discontinued because the gubbmint bureaucraps decided brake fluid has to be a light yellow-to tan color). I use this fluid for my '93 autocross/track car and works well.
And as mentioned, it's a good idea to do a complete fluid flush every 2-3 years. I use Speed Bleeders, but using the Motive Power Bleeder system will work very well. I don't recall you mentioning how old the flex lines are, but it would be a good idea to replace all of them. Some people use braided lines to improve the pedal feel, but others just get replacement lines.
I don't know where you all are but they put salt down here every time it rains. The roads are white from salt and its literally destroying brake lines, calipers and wheels. I'm not sure how they think thats "safe".
For a decent DOT4 fluid, look at ATE TYP200 (ATE Super Blue has been discontinued because the gubbmint bureaucraps decided brake fluid has to be a light yellow-to tan color). I use this fluid for my '93 autocross/track car and works well.
And as mentioned, it's a good idea to do a complete fluid flush every 2-3 years. I use Speed Bleeders, but using the Motive Power Bleeder system will work very well. I don't recall you mentioning how old the flex lines are, but it would be a good idea to replace all of them. Some people use braided lines to improve the pedal feel, but others just get replacement lines.
As far as they are concerned, you are a retarded kid and they need to do everything for your own good even if you don't realize it. In reality it is what I believe to be a "cradle to grave" approach. All for your own good. And if you believe all that crap, I have a bridge to sell you. It is done so the "do gooders" can feel good that they provided to the lowest common denominator. I wish the government would do me a favor and "NOT DO ME ANY FAVORS". I can't afford it. All I need them for is to be a neutral arbiter which they are failing at miserably because they aren't neutral since they have skin in the game. You can't be BOTH a referee and a player in the same game.
On the wife's old W210, it did reduce pedal travel by about an inch and a half, IIRC. They did nothing for me with other cars when the line was good, FWIW. Once the line gets old, well....
I don't know where you all are but they put salt down here every time it rains. The roads are white from salt and its literally destroying brake lines, calipers and wheels. I'm not sure how they think thats "safe".
When it rains? WTF!! If there is snow or they think snow is coming, fair enough. OTOH, it might be a "use it or lose it" deal. If I don't ask for a $1000 entertainment budget this year like every other year, when I need to next year, I might not get it. IDK
Brake fluid is hygroscopic (aborbs water) and if boiled it is worthless.
Hey guys I had a 22,000 lb RV and can tell that brake fluid needs to be replaced a on a regular basis when worked hard. I did mine every 2 years unless I hit the mountains and really worked the brakes. It took 3 qts of fluid and about 30 mins with Speed Bleeders. I use Wal Mart Dot 3 and never had an issue.
As far as they are concerned, you are a retarded kid and they need to do everything for your own good even if you don't realize it. In reality it is what I believe to be a "cradle to grave" approach. All for your own good. And if you believe all that crap, I have a bridge to sell you. It is done so the "do gooders" can feel good that they provided to the lowest common denominator. I wish the government would do me a favor and "NOT DO ME ANY FAVORS". I can't afford it. All I need them for is to be a neutral arbiter which they are failing at miserably because they aren't neutral since they have skin in the game. You can't be BOTH a referee and a player in the same game.
On the wife's old W210, it did reduce pedal travel by about an inch and a half, IIRC. They did nothing for me with other cars when the line was good, FWIW. Once the line gets old, well....