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I've got the new booster, and yes, It came with the vacuum check valve installed...woooohooooo
I've pulled the drivers seat as I dont want to be upside down in the floorboard, as I'm 6'1", 230, retired military, and for the life of me cannot get the damned lower dash trim panel removed, the FSM kinda sucks!
So I'm on hold until I can get the damn trim panel out, any guidance here will be greatly appreciated
I see you have a 89 (I have a 88). There should be several Philips head screws under the steering wheel to the left and right. There is a nut,10 or13mm I think, way in the middle back near the fire wall. I also think you are going to have to unhook the diagnostic port and move it out of the way. Then you can drop the carpet panel to disconnect the foot well light.
Last edited by HAD2HAV2; Mar 21, 2017 at 08:49 PM.
on my 84 i dropped the panel below the steering wheel, pushed the clip off the brake pedal used a couple of long 1/4 inch drive extensions and a 13mm socket and took the nuts off with an electric impact. i didn't remove the seat....did i mention I'm 6'5" and 275lbs
My panel doesn't have any screws, and I have a suspicion that it's been removed before, as it's all bolts, I should have taken a picture! DOH!!
Anyway, the journey continues tonight after work, I know from here the bolts that live inside the holes of the panel are to be 10mm, the others deeper in the footwell are minute, tiny little things, I dont even have a socket small enough! as I would much rather replace them with either screws, or hex keyed screws...
Though I'm also having a case of 'while I'm at it' as the power seat transmission only works front to back, nothing else, I checked the switch when I had the console apart fixing the shifter (ZF, 6sp), but the other functions on the seat are inop. I'm considering changing that while I have the seat out...
Thanks for everything guys...
D.
Last edited by Need A Vette; Mar 22, 2017 at 08:19 AM.
Yeah I got it all done last night, well I got the panel removed! wooohooo
I then did my best impression of a contortionist and proceeded, down into the foot well, upside down, on my back and began the tedious process of seperating the actuator rod from the brake pedal. After about 20 minutes of struggling, with needle nosed pliers, screwdrivers, and an awl, I finally got the retaining clip out, and the actuator rod off of the pedal. Call it PROGRESS!
so, I have the panel off
Actuator Rod Disconnected
Master cylinder loose from power booster
Vacuum Line disconnected from Check Valve
All that remains are those 2 dastardly 10mm nuts on the inside of the firewall...That is my mission tonight, should I choose to accept it, and I'm fully aware that all members of this forum will disavow any knowledge of my actions...
I've done this job once back in the late 90's on my 88 and I still remember that it was not a fun job but doable.
Sorry for the bad advice on the screws / 7mm screws as Cliff shows. The power of the iPhone is much greater than the power of memory.
Have a helper ready to hold the booster while you tighten the bolts. I didn't have a 1/4 inch battery powered ratchet when I did that job but if you do it would make the job so much easier than turning a ratchet.
I have one now and love it as you can also attach a 1/2 inch adapter to it.
I feel for you, remember doing it on my 89, and like you pulled the seat to get some work room, and lot 4 letter words, but it's better then paying a tech to do the job.
When I did mine I ended up using a trolley jack in the footwell to hold the pedal assy in place so that I could get the bolts through the bulkhead. What fun !!!