Bushings
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 2,644
Likes: 144
From: Connecticut
Bushings
So I was looking at (eventually) going through and doing my suspension bushings throughout the entire car as i'm sure they're not in great shape after 28 years, what kits have you guys used? It seems like the full suspension kits are about 200-300 dollars which doesn't seem to crazy. If there is a thread about EXACTLY this topic please link it, but I can't find one exactly on this. From what i've been reading doing all the bushings will really help liven up the car 
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 4,427
Likes: 604
From: Minneapolis Mn
I did my rear end last winter, but I used the Banski Motorsport suspension kit (trailing arms, camber rods and toe rods) instead of just replacing the bushings. It helped tremendously the suspension.
Here's some tips I found that may help you on your endeavor. Mark the camber adjustment on the top end of the camber rods before you start so you can put them back when done. If you jack up the car and support it on jack stands then unhook the rear spring on one side, it makes everything easier to replace the parts on that side. Measure the length of the spring bolt before you start or count threads so you can return it to that setting on reassembly. While you have it up, now is the time to check the U-joints on the half shafts and see if they also need replacing.
One area to watch is the slot in the bottom of the knuckle where the bottom end of the camber rod attaches. Some knuckles have a smaller opening than others (1.64" vs 1.7" on other cases), if you have this situation you'll have to reduce the length of the replacements to fit the opening.
When you get done, have a 4 wheel alignment done to the car.
It made a big improvement in mine and I'm sure it will help yours. One area that was worn the worst in the old parts was the bushings on the top end of the camber rods.
Hope that helps.
Here's some tips I found that may help you on your endeavor. Mark the camber adjustment on the top end of the camber rods before you start so you can put them back when done. If you jack up the car and support it on jack stands then unhook the rear spring on one side, it makes everything easier to replace the parts on that side. Measure the length of the spring bolt before you start or count threads so you can return it to that setting on reassembly. While you have it up, now is the time to check the U-joints on the half shafts and see if they also need replacing.
One area to watch is the slot in the bottom of the knuckle where the bottom end of the camber rod attaches. Some knuckles have a smaller opening than others (1.64" vs 1.7" on other cases), if you have this situation you'll have to reduce the length of the replacements to fit the opening.
When you get done, have a 4 wheel alignment done to the car.
It made a big improvement in mine and I'm sure it will help yours. One area that was worn the worst in the old parts was the bushings on the top end of the camber rods.
Hope that helps.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 2,644
Likes: 144
From: Connecticut
I did my rear end last winter, but I used the Banski Motorsport suspension kit (trailing arms, camber rods and toe rods) instead of just replacing the bushings. It helped tremendously the suspension.
Here's some tips I found that may help you on your endeavor. Mark the camber adjustment on the top end of the camber rods before you start so you can put them back when done. If you jack up the car and support it on jack stands then unhook the rear spring on one side, it makes everything easier to replace the parts on that side. Measure the length of the spring bolt before you start or count threads so you can return it to that setting on reassembly. While you have it up, now is the time to check the U-joints on the half shafts and see if they also need replacing.
One area to watch is the slot in the bottom of the knuckle where the bottom end of the camber rod attaches. Some knuckles have a smaller opening than others (1.64" vs 1.7" on other cases), if you have this situation you'll have to reduce the length of the replacements to fit the opening.
When you get done, have a 4 wheel alignment done to the car.
It made a big improvement in mine and I'm sure it will help yours. One area that was worn the worst in the old parts was the bushings on the top end of the camber rods.
Hope that helps.
Here's some tips I found that may help you on your endeavor. Mark the camber adjustment on the top end of the camber rods before you start so you can put them back when done. If you jack up the car and support it on jack stands then unhook the rear spring on one side, it makes everything easier to replace the parts on that side. Measure the length of the spring bolt before you start or count threads so you can return it to that setting on reassembly. While you have it up, now is the time to check the U-joints on the half shafts and see if they also need replacing.
One area to watch is the slot in the bottom of the knuckle where the bottom end of the camber rod attaches. Some knuckles have a smaller opening than others (1.64" vs 1.7" on other cases), if you have this situation you'll have to reduce the length of the replacements to fit the opening.
When you get done, have a 4 wheel alignment done to the car.
It made a big improvement in mine and I'm sure it will help yours. One area that was worn the worst in the old parts was the bushings on the top end of the camber rods.
Hope that helps.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 4,427
Likes: 604
From: Minneapolis Mn
Other things that may be of help. Get yourself another jack stand, big block of wood or whatever to put under the rotor or lug bolts (put a nut or two back on while doing the work to keep the rotor on snug) to keep everything from dangling while you're working on each side. May not need it but why risk damaging something, parts can be hard to find replacements in some cases.
Support the vehicle well, we don't want to risk anyone getting hurt.
While working on the upper ends of the camber rods and toe rods (replaced in my case) it was simpler to drop the spare tire carrier (4 bolts as I remember) than trying to work around it. Opens up a lot of area and makes it easier to get the bolts and get under the car to do it.
Be sure to have access to a torque wrench and torque values from the FSM for assembly. I like to use anti-seize on the bolts where they go through sleeves etc.. One more thing I did was other than the front bolts in the trailing arms (due to accessibility) I drilled the bolts (using a drill press and a little jig) and used castle nuts where I could on reassembly. This allowed me to use Loctite and cotter keys (may take a shim or two depending how close your drilling is) to insure nothing ever comes loose other than when intended. Just don't drill anywhere that's in the hold area of the thread, don't want to inadvertently weaken the bolts holding ability. I may be a little paranoid on things like that, but better safe than sorry IMO.
PS - obviously this is what I did. It may not be for everyone and if you have the slightest concern, don't. Everyone should be smart enough to know what's safe or not, so any recommendations are for discussion, do them at your own risk.
Support the vehicle well, we don't want to risk anyone getting hurt.
While working on the upper ends of the camber rods and toe rods (replaced in my case) it was simpler to drop the spare tire carrier (4 bolts as I remember) than trying to work around it. Opens up a lot of area and makes it easier to get the bolts and get under the car to do it.
Be sure to have access to a torque wrench and torque values from the FSM for assembly. I like to use anti-seize on the bolts where they go through sleeves etc.. One more thing I did was other than the front bolts in the trailing arms (due to accessibility) I drilled the bolts (using a drill press and a little jig) and used castle nuts where I could on reassembly. This allowed me to use Loctite and cotter keys (may take a shim or two depending how close your drilling is) to insure nothing ever comes loose other than when intended. Just don't drill anywhere that's in the hold area of the thread, don't want to inadvertently weaken the bolts holding ability. I may be a little paranoid on things like that, but better safe than sorry IMO.
PS - obviously this is what I did. It may not be for everyone and if you have the slightest concern, don't. Everyone should be smart enough to know what's safe or not, so any recommendations are for discussion, do them at your own risk.
Last edited by hcbph; May 8, 2017 at 10:19 AM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 2,644
Likes: 144
From: Connecticut
Other things that may be of help. Get yourself another jack stand, big block of wood or whatever to put under the rotor or lug bolts (put a nut or two back on while doing the work to keep the rotor on snug) to keep everything from dangling while you're working on each side. May not need it but why risk damaging something, parts can be hard to find replacements in some cases.
Support the vehicle well, we don't want to risk anyone getting hurt.
While working on the upper ends of the camber rods and toe rods (replaced in my case) it was simpler to drop the spare tire carrier (4 bolts as I remember) than trying to work around it. Opens up a lot of area and makes it easier to get the bolts and get under the car to do it.
Be sure to have access to a torque wrench and torque values from the FSM for assembly. I like to use anti-seize on the bolts where they go through sleeves etc.. One more thing I did was other than the front bolts in the trailing arms (due to accessibility) I drilled the bolts (using a drill press and a little jig) and used castle nuts where I could on reassembly. This allowed me to use Loctite and cotter keys (may take a shim or two depending how close your drilling is) to insure nothing ever comes loose other than when intended. Just don't drill anywhere that's in the hold area of the thread, don't want to inadvertently weaken the bolts holding ability. I may be a little paranoid on things like that, but better safe than sorry IMO.
PS - obviously this is what I did. It may not be for everyone and if you have the slightest concern, don't. Everyone should be smart enough to know what's safe or not, so any recommendations are for discussion, do them at your own risk.
Support the vehicle well, we don't want to risk anyone getting hurt.
While working on the upper ends of the camber rods and toe rods (replaced in my case) it was simpler to drop the spare tire carrier (4 bolts as I remember) than trying to work around it. Opens up a lot of area and makes it easier to get the bolts and get under the car to do it.
Be sure to have access to a torque wrench and torque values from the FSM for assembly. I like to use anti-seize on the bolts where they go through sleeves etc.. One more thing I did was other than the front bolts in the trailing arms (due to accessibility) I drilled the bolts (using a drill press and a little jig) and used castle nuts where I could on reassembly. This allowed me to use Loctite and cotter keys (may take a shim or two depending how close your drilling is) to insure nothing ever comes loose other than when intended. Just don't drill anywhere that's in the hold area of the thread, don't want to inadvertently weaken the bolts holding ability. I may be a little paranoid on things like that, but better safe than sorry IMO.
PS - obviously this is what I did. It may not be for everyone and if you have the slightest concern, don't. Everyone should be smart enough to know what's safe or not, so any recommendations are for discussion, do them at your own risk.
