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I've got an '89 Coupe that I want to install a remote keyless entry system on. I've come to the conclusion that I need to disassemble the dashboard to get access to the wiring behind the instrument cluster. I found some how-to's on removing the cluster but it looks like there might be some sort of cover or pan behind it. Can anyone tell me if that can be removed to get to the wiring on the firewall?
it looks like there might be some sort of cover or pan behind it. Can anyone tell me if that can be removed to get to the wiring on the firewall?
I installed a keyless entry system on my '84, too. Attention to detail, and good soldering skills are mandatory! There's a lot of stuff behind your center panel, but no additional "cover" or "pan". You'll need an FSM to verify wire colors for the circuits you'll be looking for. My keyless module fit nicely behind my stereo, on top of the trans hump. My system works great!!
Cliff Harris put one in his '86, too. It's a nice modification.
...My keyless module fit nicely behind my stereo, on top of the trans hump...
So I can get to all the wiring I need in the center area above the radio? I was thinking of going behind the dash on the driver's side, behind the gage cluster, tapping into the cable that comes from the driver's door. If I don't have to do that, this will be a lot easier than I thought!
I do have the FSM and have already worked out what needs to be connected where. And I've already replaced the stereo so I know how to get into that part of the dash.
Some wires were behind the pass. side knee bolster, which isn't that hard to remove. Didn't need to get behind the dash module, and didn't need to remove the "bread loaf" crash pad. Use good solder joints and shrink sleeve where you can. Don't use the "quick connect" crimp-on connectors. Keep it sanitary . . . no Bubba wiring!!
That's good to know. It should be relatively easy to determine which wires I need to tap into from the FSM. And if I can do this all from the radio area and the passenger side, that ought to make things a bit easier.
I'd heard from other sources that the quick-connects weren't reliable. I was planning on soldering.
It looks like that unit might be the same, or an update, as my Ready Remote system. That remote looks just like mine! Both made by Directed Electronics, Vista CA.
Instructions were very vague. Let me know what you discover! I wired the AUX button to control my antenna, and I push the LOCK and UNLOCK simultaneously to open my hatch. * is the horn button.
A challenge to install because of the vague instructions, but it works well!
I put mine under the dash on the driver's side because all the wires I needed to access were located there. I added the suggested relay for the hatch, but in retrospect I don't think that is needed, because the car already has a relay for the hatch solenoid.
I put mine under the dash on the driver's side because all the wires I needed to access were located there...
How big of a pain was that? When I looked under the dash it looked pretty tight; the wire bundles were packed in and I didn't see a good way to even separate them to gain access to what I needed. That's when I started thinking about having to pull the instrument cluster to gain access.
I've hit a snag with my system. Can either of you tell me how/where you connected the door lock relays? I tried connecting the ORG/BLK (power) wire through the relays to the TAN or GRY wires, but unfortunately the way the door switches work it becomes a short to ground. Everything else seems to be working as planned.
I tried connecting the ORG/BLK (power) wire through the relays to the TAN or GRY wires.
I can't find an '89 schematic for your Power Door Locks, but I suspect your system is the same as my '84. I think the problem is that you are supplying 12 v. directly to the tan or grey wires to the motors. That's wrong.
You want the 12 v. pulse from your remote to go to the Door Lock Relay inputs. Lock is lt blue, pin F, and Un-lock is black, pin A.
If you test your car wiring, I think you'll find that's how the lock/un-lock buttons work!
Are you using separate relays in this Door Lock circuit? My remote system does not require separate relays. The output of my remote, pins 11 (un-lock) and 14 (lock) directly drive the Door Lock relay in my car. Pins 10 and 12 of my remote are wired to 12 v.
If this doesn't make sense, can you post a picture of the schematic from your '89 FSM?
...I think the problem is that you are supplying 12 v. directly to the tan or grey wires to the motors. That's wrong....
Roy,
Nope, that's not the way I've got it configured; sorry my description was confusing. The signal from the RKE system activates separate relays which are wired up so that when they close, the OGR/BLK wire is connected to either the TAN or GRY wire. The relay contacts are in parallel with the door switch.
Let me mark up a schematic tonight and explain a little better.
I think the problem is that you are supplying 12 v. directly to the tan or grey wires to the motors.
I used the wrong word here. I should have said that it appears your relays are providing power to the tan and grey wires! The rest of my explanation should be considered as accurate. Your remote system seems to be the same as mine, so you shouldn't need those external relays for the remote system.
Here's how I have the extra relay wired in (only showing the Unlock side, the Lock side is the same):
As wired
When the relay is closed, 12V goes to the GRY wire to activate the lock motors, but because both the door switches are closed, 12V also gets tied to ground. This is highlighted in pink.
Activated
This is where I'm stuck. I can't figure out how to wire the relay so this doesn't happen. Was you 84 wiring different?
LBC, no wonder I was confused!! That's a totally different circuit!
I hope your relays are SPDT. Here's the way to make them work. I've only shown the left half of your circuit, because the right half doesn't change. The two relays go in the grey and tan wires. If your remote doesn't provide the ground actuation I've shown here, let me know if you have trouble with that!
I'm shedding a tear. One of my "babies" will die Friday, 9/15/17:
Well that explains the confusion. Unfortunately my relays are SPST so I'll have to order new ones and re-do my wire harness. It looks doable though. Thanks a bunch for your help!
P.S. I realized after I posted the schematics that I did tie into the GRY and TAN wires and not the BLU and BLK. Still caused the same problem.
P.P.S. My condolences on losing your baby. Remarkable performance, though, you should be proud!
Well that explains the confusion. Unfortunately my relays are SPST so I'll have to order new ones and re-do my wire harness. It looks doable though. Thanks a bunch for your help!
P.S. I realized after I posted the schematics that I did tie into the GRY and TAN wires and not the BLU and BLK. Still caused the same problem.
P.P.S. My condolences on losing your baby. Remarkable performance, though, you should be proud!
I have an 88 with the same circuit. I also bought the same Avital remote. Were you able to get this to work.
I have an 88 with the same circuit. I also bought the same Avital remote. Were you able to get this to work.
Still working on it but I'm close. I'm making a tweak to how Hot Rod Roy suggested connecting up the Lock and Unlock circuits; as soon as I do that it'll be functional.
I'm planning on doing a detailed post on what I did, so stay tuned.
And connected the "actuator" lines from the relays to the connections from the factory alarm box. (Can't remember the colors at the moment, my diagram is at home on a cocktail napkin)
End result is I'm using the alarm for what it's for (car alarm) with RKE and the switch wiring is left untouched works as normal.
IHBD sent me a correction to his wiring and it works fine using the onboard relays. I haven't had a chance to hook up any of the auxiliary items yet like the hatch release.
Access Behind Instrument Custer?
Unfortunately my relays are SPST so I'll have to order new ones and re-do my wire harness. It looks doable though. Thanks a bunch for your help!
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