another headlight question
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 1,054
Likes: 103
From: Ohio
another headlight question
hey everyone
While enjoying an evening drive it was getting close to lights on time - for the first time since repairing these last fall - the drivers side did not want to open all the way - I turned them off but noticed a terrible clunking noise from the front - I turned the lights back on and it stopped - but I still only had a partial light on one side
I turned them off and on again and they were both up and fine
when I got home I turned them off and the drivers side kept trying to close (it was already closed)
is there some kind of stop inside these that prevents the non stop "trying to close" I do not want to ruin the new-er gears and certainly did not want to have to change the gears again already
is there anything else that could be causing this or that I should look for?
It's a 1985 - plastic gears and no bushings
finally getting some drive time in - hoping to keep it going
any help would be greatly appreciated
Sean
While enjoying an evening drive it was getting close to lights on time - for the first time since repairing these last fall - the drivers side did not want to open all the way - I turned them off but noticed a terrible clunking noise from the front - I turned the lights back on and it stopped - but I still only had a partial light on one side
I turned them off and on again and they were both up and fine
when I got home I turned them off and the drivers side kept trying to close (it was already closed)
is there some kind of stop inside these that prevents the non stop "trying to close" I do not want to ruin the new-er gears and certainly did not want to have to change the gears again already
is there anything else that could be causing this or that I should look for?
It's a 1985 - plastic gears and no bushings
finally getting some drive time in - hoping to keep it going
any help would be greatly appreciated
Sean
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 10,036
Likes: 346
From: Anaheim CA
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,953
Likes: 550
From: Mission Viejo CA
Cliff, you may be right about replacing this gear, but your picture shows there's something wrong with the mesh between the worm gear and this pinion gear. The wear pattern on the pinion gear should show almost a complete mesh between these two gears, but your picture shows there's only about 20% gear mesh! I would guess this may be caused by worn bushings on the motor shaft, that should support the worm gear better.
It's important to have the proper lubricant on the motor shaft bearings to prevent this problem. Use a light weight white grease, like Lubriplate or CRC Sta-Lube.
It's important to have the proper lubricant on the motor shaft bearings to prevent this problem. Use a light weight white grease, like Lubriplate or CRC Sta-Lube.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 1,054
Likes: 103
From: Ohio
thanks - when I had the gear issue last time it would just make a whirring sound like the motor worked but was spinning without moving anything - this time the headlights move - they just do not sound like they want to stop
having just replaced that in the fall - and not much evening driving since - could it have really gone bad that fast?
thanks
Sean
having just replaced that in the fall - and not much evening driving since - could it have really gone bad that fast?
thanks
Sean
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 9,060
Likes: 214
From: Epping NH
Use the manual headlight **** to open/close and see if it feels smooth and doesn't slip. If not something with gears or bushings.
Also, you can test each light motor by unplugging the Headlight Actuator Module (drivers side, front fender well) and then running 12v to each motor...should open and close fully. If they do, then culprit could be the Headlight Actuator Module.
Also, you can test each light motor by unplugging the Headlight Actuator Module (drivers side, front fender well) and then running 12v to each motor...should open and close fully. If they do, then culprit could be the Headlight Actuator Module.
Last edited by bac22; Jul 21, 2017 at 08:00 AM.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 1,054
Likes: 103
From: Ohio
looks like at first - gears - I wonder if they got damaged when the motor kept banging them to try to close them? when I turn the manual ****, it starts to work well then there is a gap where nothing happens - I will have to crack it open and see what's going on - I will still try the test mentioned for the actuator - should be able to use a jumper wire right?
one more question - if it is the gears - brass or plastic? I used plastic last time and was working great - but if I need a second set already - that puts me in the brass zone - any thoughts?
thanks
one more question - if it is the gears - brass or plastic? I used plastic last time and was working great - but if I need a second set already - that puts me in the brass zone - any thoughts?
thanks
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Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 1,054
Likes: 103
From: Ohio
thanks
so - since the lights open and turn on - the drivers side does not know when to stop trying to close - is there a relay that is not telling the motor when to stop? or could that be something else?
Sean
so - since the lights open and turn on - the drivers side does not know when to stop trying to close - is there a relay that is not telling the motor when to stop? or could that be something else?
Sean
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 1,054
Likes: 103
From: Ohio
I forgot to mention - I do not know if this is "normal" when testing the movement by hand, the buckets move to about 1/3-1/2 way - then there is slack or a gap before it re-engages again? both sides do that consitently
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,953
Likes: 550
From: Mission Viejo CA
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 1,054
Likes: 103
From: Ohio
parts ordered - took a chance and ordered the individual actuator and 2 sets of gears
do you know what the black goop/tar on headlight relays is - it is some nasty stuff and all 3 relays have it on there - it seems to clean off ok with some contact cleaner - but I don't want to clean all of it off if it is in fact supposed to be there - - ?
thanks
Sean
do you know what the black goop/tar on headlight relays is - it is some nasty stuff and all 3 relays have it on there - it seems to clean off ok with some contact cleaner - but I don't want to clean all of it off if it is in fact supposed to be there - - ?
thanks
Sean
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 3,953
Likes: 550
From: Mission Viejo CA
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 10,036
Likes: 346
From: Anaheim CA
Cliff, you may be right about replacing this gear, but your picture shows there's something wrong with the mesh between the worm gear and this pinion gear. The wear pattern on the pinion gear should show almost a complete mesh between these two gears, but your picture shows there's only about 20% gear mesh! I would guess this may be caused by worn bushings on the motor shaft, that should support the worm gear better.
It's important to have the proper lubricant on the motor shaft bearings to prevent this problem. Use a light weight white grease, like Lubriplate or CRC Sta-Lube
It's important to have the proper lubricant on the motor shaft bearings to prevent this problem. Use a light weight white grease, like Lubriplate or CRC Sta-Lube
I have my own custom grease, made with a mixture of high speed wheel bearing grease and molybdenum disulfide.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 1,054
Likes: 103
From: Ohio
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 1,054
Likes: 103
From: Ohio
I have maintained for years that there is a problem with the way the gears mesh on my driver's side headlight. The gears have stripped out twice, while the passenger side has been perfect for 31 years. I tried, but couldn't figure out how to adjust the gear mesh.
I have my own custom grease, made with a mixture of high speed wheel bearing grease and molybdenum disulfide.
I have my own custom grease, made with a mixture of high speed wheel bearing grease and molybdenum disulfide.
When I first bought the car the drivers side was the first out of whack - I replaced both sides last time - most likely I am going to try to just replace the driver's side this time (I am getting parts for both just in case) I think I used white lithium grease the last time. I thought they were working fine although I did notice after a while they started to get out of time with each other.
how is the wheel bearing and molybdenum disulfide working?
what is molybdenum disulfide?
thanks
Sean
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 10,036
Likes: 346
From: Anaheim CA
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 1,054
Likes: 103
From: Ohio
Is there something that could be stopping the manual adjuster - which is now in turn stopping the headlight from opening all the way? everything seemed to go together just fine - found the smaller gear was missing 3 teeth - that must have been the original problem? but now this - I thought I got everything cleaned out pretty well - maybe a piece I did not see in another part of the gears?
any body have thoughts?
thanks
Sean
any body have thoughts?
thanks
Sean