lectroglide

just took the 95 in for a WP replacement also the main crank seal replacement. they were able to do the WP but said they couldn't get the stinkin seal out or something to that affect anyway atleast we can drive the car but the crank seal needs to be dealt with.

eutu1984

sounds like they did not want to be bothered with it.

lectroglide

from the sound things did all they could but was afraid something might break and didn't want to be responsible

billschroeder5842

Does it leak or was it PM?

If is does not leak, I say no worries.

pewter99

the shop I take my Vettes to won't even touch a C4 due to previous issues with other ones....need to find someone who is willing to work on the car that knows what they are doing and WANTS to do it

Kevova

It seems there have been a few posts about breaking ears off hub. I tell you say 200 to replace seal. Ear breaks off now I want a bunch of money on top of the 200. Since the ear broke off car isn't drivable. Your I agreed to 200 not 800 and you broke my car. The endless cycle. So if it was pouring the situation maybe different. If shop said 1k ar the start then they are a rip off..

Nowhere Man

Doesnt the flat rate book give you 10-12 hours to do the crank seal.

Kevova

That sounds like renew front cover time. It's 3.2-3.7 to replace optic. GM has you remove balancer hub to do it. So to pull timing cover and replace pan gasket sounds like 10-12.

lectroglide

the SOB who was selling it was prolly aware of that but I don't think its that many hrs

lectroglide

PM ??? had the car in a shop couple months ago and the guy said it looked like the their was oil running back on the pan, I didn't look so not sure but I can see signs of oil being thrown up under the hood but not that much, will definitely keep an eye on it + the oil level, this whole thing makes me sick esp after only having the car for 3 months! however Ive been lucky all these yrs not getting lemons so maybe it was time.

Nowhere Man

I take it you never turned wrenchs on any car made after 1970?? If you you ever done that job on a LT-1 car I can understand why they wanted no part of it. It's every part of 10 hours. With a lot of things that can go wrong and be costly and add on more hours

lectroglide

your assumptions are wrong sir however everyone is entitled to an opinion

ColaBear

I’ve pulled the timing cover on my 96 LT1 to replace the three seals. It was a lot of work. Even more so as I did it in my garage with the car on jack stands. It took me well over 12 hrs. but I pulled the intake too. I might have pulled more parts off than I needed but when you’re lying on your back, getting more work room helps.

Let’s see, I pulled the following items when I was down under:
The full cat back exhaust
The driver’s side cat
Passenger side lower support brace
Oil filter and adapter
The flywheel dust cover (covers the rear pan bolts)
The oil pan
Various electrical connectors

On the front of the motor:
Drained radiator
Removed radiator hoses (big and little ones)
Remove the MAF air sensor (rubber tubes) from intake
Throttle body
Fan belt
Water pump
Lower pulley
Hub
Pulled and moved Alternator and AC unit out of the way
Pulled Opti
Removed timing chain cover

Now you can clean up all the parts and remove the gaskets from the parts and the motor surfaces. (This was a lot of fun.)

Now put all the parts back on with new seals and gaskets. Don't forget the burp the cooling system when you add new coolant.

lectroglide

sounds like you over did it even so that's crazy man!!!!!! the part that gets me is they were already at the part just couldn't get it out!

Nowhere Man

Expect for the intake and exhaust that's what you need to remove to R&R it

96GS#007

Geezus. The 3 seals are easily replaced with the timing cover installed. I've done this many times on LT1/4 cars. With the right.....key word "right'....tools, it takes 2-3 hours.

The most critical tool to have is the Kent-Moore tool to r&r the hub. With a conventional puller, it's a puzzle to figure out that can take newbies 1-2 hours. With the KM tool, it literally takes 5 minutes to pull the hub.

On the timing cover is an indentation near each seal and using a small screwdriver and hammer, each seal is easily removed. Putting a *small* amount of RTV around each new seal, allows them to be simply seated in place. Note that the water pump seal requires a tool to properly install it over the water pump drive.

Also....Over time the seal wears a groove in the hub. When that happens, it'll still leak even with a new seal. You can buy a new hub or install a sleeve (available from FelPro) over the old one.

I've also done plenty of oil pans. That's a 5-6 hour job. Jacking the engine 1-2 inches helps with reinstallation.

lectroglide

that's some good info and am sure everyone here would like to know more in-depth details