They couldnt do it
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 642
Likes: 11
They couldnt do it
just took the 95 in for a WP replacement also the main crank seal replacement. they were able to do the WP but said they couldn't get the stinkin seal out or something to that affect
anyway atleast we can drive the car but the crank seal needs to be dealt with.
anyway atleast we can drive the car but the crank seal needs to be dealt with.
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 1999
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the shop I take my Vettes to won't even touch a C4 due to previous issues with other ones....need to find someone who is willing to work on the car that knows what they are doing and WANTS to do it
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 6,192
Likes: 750
From: near the thumb in the mitten
It seems there have been a few posts about breaking ears off hub. I tell you say 200 to replace seal. Ear breaks off now I want a bunch of money on top of the 200. Since the ear broke off car isn't drivable. Your I agreed to 200 not 800 and you broke my car. The endless cycle. So if it was pouring the situation maybe different. If shop said 1k ar the start then they are a rip off..
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 6,192
Likes: 750
From: near the thumb in the mitten
That sounds like renew front cover time. It's 3.2-3.7 to replace optic. GM has you remove balancer hub to do it. So to pull timing cover and replace pan gasket sounds like 10-12.
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Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 642
Likes: 11
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 642
Likes: 11
esp after only having the car for 3 months! however Ive been lucky all these yrs not getting lemons so maybe it was time.
Last edited by lectroglide; Jul 22, 2017 at 01:39 PM.
Team Owner
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From: Sitting in his Nowhere land Hanover Pa
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I take it you never turned wrenchs on any car made after 1970?? If you you ever done that job on a LT-1 car I can understand why they wanted no part of it. It's every part of 10 hours. With a lot of things that can go wrong and be costly and add on more hours
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2012
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From: Gilbert AZ
2018 C1 of Year Finalis4
I’ve pulled the timing cover on my 96 LT1 to replace the three seals. It was a lot of work. Even more so as I did it in my garage with the car on jack stands. It took me well over 12 hrs. but I pulled the intake too. I might have pulled more parts off than I needed but when you’re lying on your back, getting more work room helps.
Let’s see, I pulled the following items when I was down under:
The full cat back exhaust
The driver’s side cat
Passenger side lower support brace
Oil filter and adapter
The flywheel dust cover (covers the rear pan bolts)
The oil pan
Various electrical connectors
On the front of the motor:
Drained radiator
Removed radiator hoses (big and little ones)
Remove the MAF air sensor (rubber tubes) from intake
Throttle body
Fan belt
Water pump
Lower pulley
Hub
Pulled and moved Alternator and AC unit out of the way
Pulled Opti
Removed timing chain cover
Now you can clean up all the parts and remove the gaskets from the parts and the motor surfaces. (This was a lot of fun.)
Now put all the parts back on with new seals and gaskets. Don't forget the burp the cooling system when you add new coolant.
Let’s see, I pulled the following items when I was down under:
The full cat back exhaust
The driver’s side cat
Passenger side lower support brace
Oil filter and adapter
The flywheel dust cover (covers the rear pan bolts)
The oil pan
Various electrical connectors
On the front of the motor:
Drained radiator
Removed radiator hoses (big and little ones)
Remove the MAF air sensor (rubber tubes) from intake
Throttle body
Fan belt
Water pump
Lower pulley
Hub
Pulled and moved Alternator and AC unit out of the way
Pulled Opti
Removed timing chain cover
Now you can clean up all the parts and remove the gaskets from the parts and the motor surfaces. (This was a lot of fun.)
Now put all the parts back on with new seals and gaskets. Don't forget the burp the cooling system when you add new coolant.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 642
Likes: 11
I’ve pulled the timing cover on my 96 LT1 to replace the three seals. It was a lot of work. Even more so as I did it in my garage with the car on jack stands. It took me well over 12 hrs. but I pulled the intake too. I might have pulled more parts off than I needed but when you’re lying on your back, getting more work room helps.
Let’s see, I pulled the following items when I was down under:
The full cat back exhaust
The driver’s side cat
Passenger side lower support brace
Oil filter and adapter
The flywheel dust cover (covers the rear pan bolts)
The oil pan
Various electrical connectors
On the front of the motor:
Drained radiator
Removed radiator hoses (big and little ones)
Remove the MAF air sensor (rubber tubes) from intake
Throttle body
Fan belt
Water pump
Lower pulley
Hub
Pulled and moved Alternator and AC unit out of the way
Pulled Opti
Removed timing chain cover
Now you can clean up all the parts and remove the gaskets from the parts and the motor surfaces. (This was a lot of fun.)
Now put all the parts back on with new seals and gaskets. Don't forget the burp the cooling system when you add new coolant.
Let’s see, I pulled the following items when I was down under:
The full cat back exhaust
The driver’s side cat
Passenger side lower support brace
Oil filter and adapter
The flywheel dust cover (covers the rear pan bolts)
The oil pan
Various electrical connectors
On the front of the motor:
Drained radiator
Removed radiator hoses (big and little ones)
Remove the MAF air sensor (rubber tubes) from intake
Throttle body
Fan belt
Water pump
Lower pulley
Hub
Pulled and moved Alternator and AC unit out of the way
Pulled Opti
Removed timing chain cover
Now you can clean up all the parts and remove the gaskets from the parts and the motor surfaces. (This was a lot of fun.)
Now put all the parts back on with new seals and gaskets. Don't forget the burp the cooling system when you add new coolant.
the part that gets me is they were already at the part just couldn't get it out!
Last edited by lectroglide; Jul 22, 2017 at 03:52 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 53,979
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From: Sitting in his Nowhere land Hanover Pa
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Race Director
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From: Texas
Geezus. The 3 seals are easily replaced with the timing cover installed. I've done this many times on LT1/4 cars. With the right.....key word "right'....tools, it takes 2-3 hours.
The most critical tool to have is the Kent-Moore tool to r&r the hub. With a conventional puller, it's a puzzle to figure out that can take newbies 1-2 hours. With the KM tool, it literally takes 5 minutes to pull the hub.
On the timing cover is an indentation near each seal and using a small screwdriver and hammer, each seal is easily removed. Putting a *small* amount of RTV around each new seal, allows them to be simply seated in place. Note that the water pump seal requires a tool to properly install it over the water pump drive.
Also....Over time the seal wears a groove in the hub. When that happens, it'll still leak even with a new seal. You can buy a new hub or install a sleeve (available from FelPro) over the old one.
I've also done plenty of oil pans. That's a 5-6 hour job. Jacking the engine 1-2 inches helps with reinstallation.
The most critical tool to have is the Kent-Moore tool to r&r the hub. With a conventional puller, it's a puzzle to figure out that can take newbies 1-2 hours. With the KM tool, it literally takes 5 minutes to pull the hub.
On the timing cover is an indentation near each seal and using a small screwdriver and hammer, each seal is easily removed. Putting a *small* amount of RTV around each new seal, allows them to be simply seated in place. Note that the water pump seal requires a tool to properly install it over the water pump drive.
Also....Over time the seal wears a groove in the hub. When that happens, it'll still leak even with a new seal. You can buy a new hub or install a sleeve (available from FelPro) over the old one.
I've also done plenty of oil pans. That's a 5-6 hour job. Jacking the engine 1-2 inches helps with reinstallation.
Last edited by 96GS#007; Jul 22, 2017 at 09:31 PM.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 642
Likes: 11
Geezus. The 3 seals are easily replaced with the timing cover installed. I've done this many times on LT1/4 cars. With the right.....key word "right'....tools, it takes 2-3 hours.
The most critical tool to have is the Kent-Moore tool to r&r the hub. With a conventional puller, it's a puzzle to figure out that can take newbies 1-2 hours. With the KM tool, it literally takes 5 minutes to pull the hub.
On the timing cover is an indentation near each seal and using a small screwdriver and hammer, each seal is easily removed. Putting a *small* amount of RTV around each new seal, allows them to be simply seated in place. Note that the water pump seal requires a tool to properly install it over the water pump drive.
Also....Over time the seal wears a groove in the hub. When that happens, it'll still leak even with a new seal. You can buy a new hub or install a sleeve (available from FelPro) over the old one.
I've also done plenty of oil pans. That's a 5-6 hour job. Jacking the engine 1-2 inches helps with reinstallation.
The most critical tool to have is the Kent-Moore tool to r&r the hub. With a conventional puller, it's a puzzle to figure out that can take newbies 1-2 hours. With the KM tool, it literally takes 5 minutes to pull the hub.
On the timing cover is an indentation near each seal and using a small screwdriver and hammer, each seal is easily removed. Putting a *small* amount of RTV around each new seal, allows them to be simply seated in place. Note that the water pump seal requires a tool to properly install it over the water pump drive.
Also....Over time the seal wears a groove in the hub. When that happens, it'll still leak even with a new seal. You can buy a new hub or install a sleeve (available from FelPro) over the old one.
I've also done plenty of oil pans. That's a 5-6 hour job. Jacking the engine 1-2 inches helps with reinstallation.
that's some good info and am sure everyone here would like to know more in-depth details