Anyone repaired glass targa top
08-15-2017, 06:57 AM
#1
Anyone repaired glass targa top
Hi
i have a extra frame for my 84
corvette m wondering if anyone has installed a new
tinted top in a frame?
i notice they sell just the glass on ebay
thanks
monte k
anderson IN
i have a extra frame for my 84
corvette m wondering if anyone has installed a new
tinted top in a frame?
i notice they sell just the glass on ebay
thanks
monte k
anderson IN
08-15-2017, 10:12 PM
#2
Safety Car
Yes. Bonding an acrylic top to the aluminum frame structure does have a few tricks! Several people have tried epoxy or RTV, only to have it fail in a year or so. I re-bonded the acrylic top on my '84 about 9 or 10 years ago, and it's doing fine! I wrote up a detailed procedure here on the Forum, but it's been so long ago, my post has been deleted! You can do a search on "Betaseal".
Here's a summary of another write-up that I did just a few years ago:
Since you're planning to bond a new top to your frame, install the frame on your car, then place the acrylic top in place (no glue yet), adjust the position of the top, then mark the inside of the top so you can align it to the frame after you remove the frame from the car.
I've re-printed my procedure, as there may be others who might be interested in re-bonding their original top!
The FRC has been trying to close their membership drive, but new members are always anxious to join! (It might be interesting to know who belongs to the club! Not me!)
FRC: Flying Roof Club
Here's a summary of another write-up that I did just a few years ago:
As this old thread has stated, the RTV adhesives aren't permanent fixes. You are right, the top needs to be completely removed from the frame, the old adhesive removed, and new adhesive used for the rebuild. I did this several years ago, and I've had no problems! I can't find the post I did at that time.
I used Dow Betaseal U-418 and primer, which is the professional urethane adhesive used for new car glue-in windshields. Before you strip the acrylic top from the frame, mark the alignment of the top to the frame with masking tape at several locations on the inside of the top. Remove the top from the car. Force a narrow putty knife thru the bond area to separate the top from the frame. Clean off the old adhesive by using a single edged razor blade. Turn the top upside down on a table and review the alignment of the frame to the top. Don't do this on the car, because the weather strips get in the way, and the bond line will not be as thin as what you want! Work with the top upside down on a table. Apply the adhesive, set the frame in place, and very lightly clamp the frame to the top.
You may want to adjust the height of the four corner mounting brackets in the car, because your new top may fit tighter than before the rebuild! Be careful of the front fit, because as you'll notice, as you tighten the front bolts, you're pulling hard on the acrylic top against the front weatherstrip. If this is too tight, you'll be stressing the bond more than necessary. You should be able to tighten the bolts all the way, without over-stressing the bond line, or cracking the top!!
I used Dow Betaseal U-418 and primer, which is the professional urethane adhesive used for new car glue-in windshields. Before you strip the acrylic top from the frame, mark the alignment of the top to the frame with masking tape at several locations on the inside of the top. Remove the top from the car. Force a narrow putty knife thru the bond area to separate the top from the frame. Clean off the old adhesive by using a single edged razor blade. Turn the top upside down on a table and review the alignment of the frame to the top. Don't do this on the car, because the weather strips get in the way, and the bond line will not be as thin as what you want! Work with the top upside down on a table. Apply the adhesive, set the frame in place, and very lightly clamp the frame to the top.
You may want to adjust the height of the four corner mounting brackets in the car, because your new top may fit tighter than before the rebuild! Be careful of the front fit, because as you'll notice, as you tighten the front bolts, you're pulling hard on the acrylic top against the front weatherstrip. If this is too tight, you'll be stressing the bond more than necessary. You should be able to tighten the bolts all the way, without over-stressing the bond line, or cracking the top!!
I've re-printed my procedure, as there may be others who might be interested in re-bonding their original top!
The FRC has been trying to close their membership drive, but new members are always anxious to join! (It might be interesting to know who belongs to the club! Not me!)
FRC: Flying Roof Club
08-16-2017, 01:30 AM
#3
Targa top
hi
Thanks for the info,
when I bought my 84, it came with a fiberglass top, and a transparent top the has a hole in in
yes he was a member of the FRC
ive been wanting to do something with the old top, the frame is in great shape , I'm going to give it a try
ive noticed the Dow Betaseal U-418 I find says Primerless?
im going to order 2 tubes from Amazon
again thanks for the info, at 69 years old I and my family are loving the Vette
monte k
Anderson, IN
Thanks for the info,
when I bought my 84, it came with a fiberglass top, and a transparent top the has a hole in in
yes he was a member of the FRC
ive been wanting to do something with the old top, the frame is in great shape , I'm going to give it a try
ive noticed the Dow Betaseal U-418 I find says Primerless?
im going to order 2 tubes from Amazon
again thanks for the info, at 69 years old I and my family are loving the Vette
monte k
Anderson, IN
08-16-2017, 05:53 PM
#4
Safety Car
You'll only need one tube. I've used the extra from my one tube for a variety of other glue-jobs! The stuff is amazingly sticky!
Don't get the U-418HV (High Viscosity).
08-16-2017, 07:50 PM
#5
Race Director
I will probably use the guys out of florida. They know what they're doing and charge like nothing over the cost of the roof pane itself.
11-09-2017, 08:27 PM
#7
Cruising
11-15-2017, 01:51 AM
#9
Safety Car
I think you'll find that it says "Primerless-to-Glass". Our tops aren't glass. I'm in favor of a proven successful procedure. I'd sure recommend using the primer!
If you can only find the HV (High Viscosity) and find that it's hard to apply, it can be heated to make it easier to apply. This advice is from a pro installer, who retrieved his tube of U-418HV from under the hood of his truck! He placed the tube on his intake manifold before he left his shop! I used the non-HV, and found it easy to apply.
https://www.dow.com/en-us/transporta...ca/na-betaseal
If you can only find the HV (High Viscosity) and find that it's hard to apply, it can be heated to make it easier to apply. This advice is from a pro installer, who retrieved his tube of U-418HV from under the hood of his truck! He placed the tube on his intake manifold before he left his shop! I used the non-HV, and found it easy to apply.
https://www.dow.com/en-us/transporta...ca/na-betaseal