Clutch
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 750
Likes: 86
From: St Petersburg
Clutch
C4 1989 just got home pulled in drive way shut car off It was in first gear parked engine off
I pushed clutch in to re start car it went all the way to the floor and now zero pressure zero
I pushed clutch in to re start car it went all the way to the floor and now zero pressure zero
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 7,344
Likes: 2,272
From: Central Maryland
If there's a puddle of hydraulic fluid under the car, you sprang a leak, likely in the line, hose or slave cylinder. Repair as required, refill, bleed, and carry on.
Live well,
SJW
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 750
Likes: 86
From: St Petersburg
Clutch
Look for a puddle under the car. If there's nothing there, top off the fluid level in the clutch master cylinder. You might need to pump the clutch pedal repeatedly to coax the air out of the line and restore full pedal.
If there's a puddle of hydraulic fluid under the car, you sprang a leak, likely in the line, hose or slave cylinder. Repair as required, refill, bleed, and carry on.
Live well,
SJW
If there's a puddle of hydraulic fluid under the car, you sprang a leak, likely in the line, hose or slave cylinder. Repair as required, refill, bleed, and carry on.
Live well,
SJW
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 7,344
Likes: 2,272
From: Central Maryland
If you find that the fluid level is sufficient when you check it, the clutch master cylinder has probably failed (piston seal shot). Check for the presence of fluid on the carpet below the pedals.
While it's possible that there's a mechanical linkage problem (fork, pedal, etc), this sort of problem on C4s is almost always in the hydraulics.
Live well,
SJW
Last edited by SJW; Sep 1, 2017 at 09:36 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 6,314
Likes: 508
From: South-central Missouri
Verifying the Master linkage rod attachment
OP: But, for what it's worth: the master linkage rod rides on a short stud, jutting out of the peddle arm. There is a "C" clip that secures the rod end - keeps it from sliding off the stud.
By feel, you can find the actuator rod and run you fingers to the clutch pedal arm to veeify it is attached. Or, if you remove the hush panel and shine a light up under there, you can see the linkage rod and the pivot stud by looking through the gap between the hood release and the dash framework.
If the rod is detached, look for the "C" clip on the carpet in the footwell; might save you a trip to parts store!
P.S.:
I just replaced my master and slave cylinders. Upon recommendations, I got my master and slave from Rock Auto; as they sell the cast iron units. Generally, avoid the (soft) metal tubing kind (that some have a habit of early failure).
For the brake line, through trial and error, I got mine from Corvette Central. Unless you're keeping n NCRS car, I can recommend you get the braided lines (flexible) as opposed to the hard steel lines with the rubber mid section. (Much easier to install!)
I'd share the part #s with you, but being that mine is a ZR-1, also with a Veleo clutch and all, I dunno if the part #s would work in your case.
Last edited by Paul Workman; Sep 1, 2017 at 11:56 AM.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 750
Likes: 86
From: St Petersburg
I saw on here some aftermarket ones leaked after 2,000 miles and other had seals in backwards, and suggestions on what brand to buy ?
