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mine was listed on E bay and sold. Buyer didn't dome thru with the bucks, seller recontacted me asking if I was still in the market. Drove 30 miles to look at it. Offered a much lower price than listed as the car was really a running, driving project. I bought it and think I paid to much at 3K. However, I dfo love driving that son of a Bitch and its getting better as time allows me to fidget with it.
mine was listed on E bay and sold. Buyer didn't dome thru with the bucks, seller recontacted me asking if I was still in the market. Drove 30 miles to look at it. Offered a much lower price than listed as the car was really a running, driving project. I bought it and think I paid to much at 3K. However, I dfo love driving that son of a Bitch and its getting better as time allows me to fidget with it.
You sure the seller didn't back out of it after finding issues that weren't on the ad? I have.
They base the values off of the larger Auctions... Now to me that would mean the prices would be WAY too high, but they also average them with some of the popular Vettes For Sale sites and private online listings...
To me, this tool is a quick way to bring a seller "back down to earth" when they are selling their Vette based on their emotion of the car vs the true value. It gives me a great starting point to know where to begin negotiations...
The big auctions tend to be on the lower side of the prices, as they have huge commissions and fees buyers pay on top of the bidding price. If you watch, the auction cars always sell for less than they normally would due to the overhead, unless there' a bidding frenzy on something special and rare.
They base the values off of the larger Auctions... Now to me that would mean the prices would be WAY too high, but they also average them with some of the popular Vettes For Sale sites and private online listings...
To me, this tool is a quick way to bring a seller "back down to earth" when they are selling their Vette based on their emotion of the car vs the true value. It gives me a great starting point to know where to begin negotiations...
Problem I have with the online listing is that it does not matter what you want for the car. What matters to me is what you got
The big auctions tend to be on the lower side of the prices, as they have huge commissions and fees buyers pay on top of the bidding price. If you watch, the auction cars always sell for less than they normally would due to the overhead, unless there' a bidding frenzy on something special and rare.
I don't follow. Bigger auctions also means more people hence the bigger commissions. Why would that make me sell it for less? Sure, I get 10k and lose 3k at a big auction but I might not get 10k at the smaller auctions and they still charge a fee.
I don't follow. Bigger auctions also means more people hence the bigger commissions. Why would that make me sell it for less? Sure, I get 10k and lose 3k at a big auction but I might not get 10k at the smaller auctions and they still charge a fee.
I can' explain the mindset of people trying to sell at mecum or bj eother, but if you look at the results, your pretty standard cars like modem vettes, mustangs, etc. All sell for pretty low values. I think the buyers at these auctions are including the commissions they pay on top of their winning bids in their pricing. A lot of sellers get trade in for their cars on these auctions,. They can say they sold at mecum or whatever, and maybe that' the point?
All I know is, I certainly wouldn't put the results of common cars at the big auctions at the top end of the prices, I'd put them at the mid-bottom. Factor in the commision and it ends up being right on market average typically.
I paid just under $10K for my "Turn Key" 94 Polo Green Convertible last May. The car needed nothing except a new set of shocks and to be driven... I think the seller paid close to $5k for it and spent $7K~$8K A~Z on the car. Buy as much as you can justify based on condition...don't expect these cars to appreciate dramatically in the near future...so if you can find one that you like that someone else has brought back...buy it at a savings, drive it and enjoy it.
The original MSRP was just south of $46K. I think the convertibles carried close to a 10% price jump over a coupe when they were new...expect about the same today all things being equal...especially in the South and on the West Coast.
I think the buyers at these auctions are including the commissions they pay on top of their winning bids in their pricing. A lot of sellers get trade in for their cars on these auctions,. They can say they sold at mecum or whatever, and maybe that' the point?
All I know is, I certainly wouldn't put the results of common cars at the big auctions at the top end of the prices, I'd put them at the mid-bottom. Factor in the commision and it ends up being right on market average typically.
What percentage does Barrett Jackson get?
Barrett-Jackson earns their money via an 8% seller's premium charged to the seller (consignor) when their car is sold. They also collect a 10% bidder's premium from the buyer once the car sells and 15% on automobilia sales.Apr 17, 2014
The more I sell it for, the more they earn for being allowed onto the platform. IOW you won the bid at $100K and out of that, I keep $92K and you pay the total of you pay $115K.
I would think not. After all, an 84 Corvette might be worth $x but if it is owned by someone famous, it would skew the price. Kinda why I like to know what you get if you trade it in vs retail since the dealership has some responsibility which you have none of. I usually try to price it somewhere in between so you get more than if you traded it in but less than me buying it after you trade it in.
I paid just under $10K for my "Turn Key" 94 Polo Green Convertible last May. The car needed nothing except a new set of shocks and to be driven... I think the seller paid close to $5k for it and spent $7K~$8K A~Z on the car. Buy as much as you can justify based on condition...don't expect these cars to appreciate dramatically in the near future...so if you can find one that you like that someone else has brought back...buy it at a savings, drive it and enjoy it.
The original MSRP was just south of $46K. I think the convertibles carried close to a 10% price jump over a coupe when they were new...expect about the same today all things being equal...especially in the South and on the West Coast.
I fully expect it to depreciate. I might pay you a little more if you can show me recent receipts for new parts but that is about it. I wouldn't pay you significantly more for parts you put on in the course of ownership. I fully expect it to be a loss sooner or later so when it gets too expensive or difficult to maintain, scrap it and start over with something newer.
This app is not very good. The 67 435HP market is VERY sensitive to colors and the app does not account for this at all. A green 435 may be worth in the low 100s. A verified black exterior with blue interior could be worth over $600,000.
which the 89-91 B2K cars and the occasional SuperNatural - all with AeroBodies, are bringing mid/upper 30s-50k+, and some as much as $75k recently (excluding specials like Speedsters, etc.) depending on miles and options. And most of these cars sell word of mouth. The best examples, at least.
Right now, the Callaways, Corvette Challenge cars from 88/89, and best examples of the GS, all Seem to hold the strongest.
Last edited by Callaway Chris; Dec 2, 2017 at 08:31 AM.
The more I sell it for, the more they earn for being allowed onto the platform. IOW you won the bid at $100K and out of that, I keep $92K and you pay the total of you pay $115K.
I would think not. After all, an 84 Corvette might be worth $x but if it is owned by someone famous, it would skew the price. Kinda why I like to know what you get if you trade it in vs retail since the dealership has some responsibility which you have none of. I usually try to price it somewhere in between so you get more than if you traded it in but less than me buying it after you trade it in.
What you're missing is. For cars that are nothing special, people don' pay that extra commission. If I know I can go buy the same car on ebay or at a dealer for 10k, why on earth would I bid 10k at an auction knowing I'll have 13k in it after the fees?
Unless your car is something so alluring that it defeats rational thought, selling at a big auction always works against you. If it' a challenger ta, all original, in a rare color some old carts loved, maybe it will be worth it. But of its a 94 automatic c4, you'e gonna end up losing to be on stage.
The big auctions tend to be on the lower side of the prices, as they have huge commissions and fees buyers pay on top of the bidding price. If you watch, the auction cars always sell for less than they normally would due to the overhead, unless there' a bidding frenzy on something special and rare.
Im sorry - I completely disagree... Bigger auctions, draw bigger crowds, which demand higher fees and commissions. All of those add, and add and add to your asking price...which runs the price up.
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