barchetta1

I have no records.

What should I do to this car to make it relatively reliable as a weekend fun car? All looks pretty original to me.. although, I have not pulled a plug. It seems to run pretty good, no misses or anything. Trans oil looks pretty red.. and I will obviously do engine oil and filter.

I did notice the front end shakes a bit under braking and I dont feel anything on the brake pedal.. do shocks dry up? they look to be original Bilsteins.

thanks in advance.. I did do a search and didnt see anything in regards to a 22 yr old car with fairly low miles.. sorry if I missed a post.

PatternDayTrader

Change the oil and filter and grease everything. Check the differential level and trans fluid level. Check the coolant level. Verify all features work properly. The original Bilsteins are probably no good anymore. Make sure the coil wire end isn't all corroded at the coil tower. It probably needs a 4 wheel alignment. Change the fuel filter and the air filter.

Crossed Flags Fan

Primary things I would be concerned with are:
Replace radiator hoses and heater hoses (and of course the coolant)
As best as possible clean debris (leaves/grass/jun)k from in front of radiator, behind A/C "radiator"
Replace main drive belt
Consider a spark plug and plug wire replacement in the spring
At all cost RESIST the calls to replace opti-spark. Truly one of those "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" parts
Flush/replace brake fluid
Find the front end grease fittings and grease away
Replace air filter and fuel filter
If the shocks are original they should probably be replaced
If you're getting a shake upon braking, your front rotors should probably be re-surfaced
Because the trans fluid is red DO NOT flush or replace
If your tires are older than 5 or 6 year they should probably be replaced. If you live in a cold climate make sure you do not drive on summer only performance tires. They lose their traction in temps below 40 degrees
Battery life is about 5 years, so consider replacement this if it's this old
Only use Mobil 1 motor oil and a good brand oil filter - Mobil 1, Wix, A/C Delco
I'm not a fan of "mechanic in a bottle" snake oil. However, one product that seems to stand out is a 20 oz. bottle of Chevron Techron Concentrate Plus Fuel System Cleaner twice a year to clean fuel injectors AND the fuel level sending unit
Search this forum for helpful hints on how to do the replacement/change recommendations.
Good Luck!!! and Enjoy!!!

belairbrian

My approach was all fluids get replaced, all filters get replaced, may be overkill but I can't look at any of them and tell how long they have been there.

The suggestion to change all the hoses is a good one. Mine were 4 years older than yours and I had one spring a leak this summer. Luckily it was small and made a little geyser under the hood. I was able to tape it and drive the 10 miles home.

Do your spark plug wires have cylinder numbers on them. If so they are the originals.

If you haven't already done so, Get a Factory Service Manual. Not a Haynes or Chilton but the GM one.

yd328

I did wires and plugs, along with all filters, coolant hoses, and fluids when I got mine a year ago w/67K. I also replaced the heat sink grease on the ignition control module, it was dried up pretty good. Your hoses will have dates on them if they are original. Check your radiators plastic tanks, they can develope cracks.

Gary

barchetta1

Thank you for all your advice.

The only thing I am scared to death to touch is trans oil. Since its red, I think unwise to mess with it.. I was told by a BMW shop that you shouldnt because if it is running right, then the current viscosity is what works and messing with it can cause trouble. I realize that is for a BMW trans but the logic applies.

I think Im going to delay the wires until I do something drastic like a cam or headers.

The rear gear is the first "mod" I plan to make.. so I will mess with that when I do the gears.

Cjunkie

Change your transmission filter/gasket if its and auto-change your manual transmission fluid if a 6 spd.
Change water pump and opti spark........your going to anyways.

barchetta1

What is the ACTUAL problem with the optispark distributor? My pump was done by PO.. so I dont want to go there.

PatternDayTrader

You don't need to worry about it.
When the pump fails it leaks coolant all over the distributor, eventually this wrecks the distributor, if your pump is new then you don't need to worry about it.

Cool Runnings

Don't change the optispark until it fails. OEM are hard to find now.

Crossed Flags Fan

Leave your A/T fluid and filter alone. If it still looks red and doesn't have a "burnt smell" then it's probably been changed since new. Your BMW shop is giving you good advice as most A/T shops deal with the same issues. As others have said DON'T touch the optispark especially since the water pump has been changed already.

Cjunkie

Exactly because the original water pump fail and spewed all over the opti already

Cjunkie

I agree. Everyone knows IT IS going to fail. Since they are hard to find now they will be easier to find later on right? Makes sense.

Cjunkie

Your right leave the tranny filter and fluid alone. While your not under there leave the oil and filter, brake fluid, antifreeze, and gear lube alone too.
BTW later BMWs are a non service transmission. Old GMs require tranny filter and fluid changes.
I also go to a podiatrist for an earache.

PatternDayTrader

If your right then the opti survived and can be trusted for further service.

Mr. Peabody

I've owned my 95 for more than a dozen years, put more than 100K on the car, used it as my only vehicle for the first 6 years so year-round dd. It's now my weekend cruising car while the 04 is the weekday driver.

There are some things that I would do ....... and some that I would not.

Change all the fluids. Just start with the front of car and work towards the back. Radiator, oil & filter, brake fluid flush, power steering fluid, trans fluid and filter, rear diff and whatever diff fluid you decide to use.... buy the GM additive for the posi-traction and put it in first and then the rear diff fluid.

When you change the coolant is a great time to replace the radiator hoses and heater hoses.

Brake pads & rotor resurface or replacement.

Ball joints and swaybar end bushings.

If you have the F45 real time dampening suspension you have a one-year-only special system and components can be expensive.

I would advise you NOT to replace the optispark. The issue is that there is currently not a reliable source for replacements. The electro optical sensor which is one of the key components is no longer manufactured by mitsubishi and the replacements are not reliable. The later year cars like yours and mine use an improved vented version and are more reliable. If this part aint broke leave it alone.

I would advise you NOT to pressure wash your engine bay. Water is not the problem water pressure is a problem. Here in Seattle it rains every day for 7 months of the year. I'll bet I've driven 50,000 miles in the rain .... no opti problems no electrical component issues.

Get yourself the two volume set Factory Service Manual for the 96. It's great for telling you the correct order to disassemble and reassemble things. It's also chock full of diagnostic steps for all of the various systems.

81c3

Everyone keeps saying rotors and pads for the front end shake while braking... but you say you dont feel it in the brake pedal.... That means something in the front end could be worn.... I would have it looked at by an alignment guy.

Edv92c4

Edv92c4

Also...trans red fluid is a good thing...shows that it is healthy but no way to know how long it’s been in there. Changing it in a 22 year old car is a good idea...it’s when it’s brown and burnt that you should leave it alone. At this point, the clutch material is suspended in the fluid and letting the “doomed” trans continue to function...for a while. Failure is iminit. Changing out burnt/brown fluid could cause the trans to start to slip because of the removal of the suspended clutch material...leaving it should buy you a little more time before rebuild is needed. 73k miles and red fluid and 22 years old...I would change it...

Wayne88

Original shocks on the C4 are Bilsteins that had a AC Delco-Bilstein sticker. The aftermarket Bilsteins don't have the AC Delco sticker.