Considering a C4 - what to know
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 243
Likes: 27
From: Rocky River OH
Considering a C4 - what to know
I have always liked the look of the C4, especially the 1991-96 model. I like the look of the squared off tail lights and the rectangular exhaust tips. I currently have a C6 vert M6 Z51. I am seriously considering adding a C4 to the fleet.
But, I don't know much beyond the basics. I would like a stock LT1, auto coupe. I know the optic-spark system can give headaches. Are there any common problem areas that should be checked out, beyond the basic used car inspection? Looking for something stock with no plans to mod.
I appreciate the input.
But, I don't know much beyond the basics. I would like a stock LT1, auto coupe. I know the optic-spark system can give headaches. Are there any common problem areas that should be checked out, beyond the basic used car inspection? Looking for something stock with no plans to mod.
I appreciate the input.
Last edited by Tony 327; Mar 16, 2018 at 08:55 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 7,706
Likes: 485
From: Everett WA
C4 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
Every year of LT1 production there were improvements made.
Get yourself a 95 or 96. Mileage is not that critical if there are good maintenance records. My car has 134K and still runs strong.
Most LT1 cars came with either 8.5" wheels in front with 9.5" in the rear or if you got the Z07 suspension (similar to your Z51) you got 9.5" on all 4 corners. These became the last vettes that you can run the same size wheels and tires and be able to rotate front to back. I run 275x40x17 some guys who autocross will go even wider but it's not really needed on the street. The car will already drive like a slot car.
Only the ZR1 and the Grand sport came with 11" wide rear wheels and you said your're looking for an LT1 car.
The 94 - 96 sport seats are expensive to recover because that group only comes with the foam already glued to the leather. (but they are IMHO the most comfortable ) If you're going with an A4 they came with two different rearend ratios 2.59 & 3.07 you want the 3.07.
Get yourself a 95 or 96. Mileage is not that critical if there are good maintenance records. My car has 134K and still runs strong.
Most LT1 cars came with either 8.5" wheels in front with 9.5" in the rear or if you got the Z07 suspension (similar to your Z51) you got 9.5" on all 4 corners. These became the last vettes that you can run the same size wheels and tires and be able to rotate front to back. I run 275x40x17 some guys who autocross will go even wider but it's not really needed on the street. The car will already drive like a slot car.
Only the ZR1 and the Grand sport came with 11" wide rear wheels and you said your're looking for an LT1 car.
The 94 - 96 sport seats are expensive to recover because that group only comes with the foam already glued to the leather. (but they are IMHO the most comfortable ) If you're going with an A4 they came with two different rearend ratios 2.59 & 3.07 you want the 3.07.
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 16,097
Likes: 821
From: Dallas Texas
2025 C4 of the Year Finalist - Modified
Pretty much the same as any used car. Buy the cleanest one you can find, in your price range.
Common problems: weather stripping, opti(great system, dicey replacement parts), tire condition/age, oil leaks(mostly due to intake on LT1/4 cars) and general wear, like any car.
Common problems: weather stripping, opti(great system, dicey replacement parts), tire condition/age, oil leaks(mostly due to intake on LT1/4 cars) and general wear, like any car.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 1,072
Likes: 48
From: Henderson Nevada
While newer is better, they're all pretty good in that range. Many people love '91's and the last year of the simpler L98 engine (but shy 50 hp from the LT1, granted it has peakier torque). General "used car inspection" rules apply for C4's and cover 90% of what you need to know.
When it comes to "stock" wheels on the year range you're talking about, '91-'96, they will all have the 17 inch sawblades, unless the previous owner swapped them. A subtle difference you may notice is that 91-92 have a flat "cast" look and 93-96 are machined and clear coated (a bit shinier).
Other than that, just little changes from year to year. All will have driver side air bags. Passenger side air bags replaced the glove compartment in '94. Interior lettering switched from orange to white in '94 as well as a different steering wheel and seat styles. If that stuff matters to you, just do some image searches or go look at a few different cars.
I bolded my favorite part of this response, haha. It was mandatory for me to get the 3.07 rear with an auto.
Tony: Look for "G44" and "G92" RPO codes under the center console (if they're still there on the car you look at).
All I can say is... its worth it.
When it comes to "stock" wheels on the year range you're talking about, '91-'96, they will all have the 17 inch sawblades, unless the previous owner swapped them. A subtle difference you may notice is that 91-92 have a flat "cast" look and 93-96 are machined and clear coated (a bit shinier).
Other than that, just little changes from year to year. All will have driver side air bags. Passenger side air bags replaced the glove compartment in '94. Interior lettering switched from orange to white in '94 as well as a different steering wheel and seat styles. If that stuff matters to you, just do some image searches or go look at a few different cars.
Every year of LT1 production there were improvements made.
Get yourself a 95 or 96. Mileage is not that critical if there are good maintenance records. My car has 134K and still runs strong.
Most LT1 cars came with either 8.5" wheels in front with 9.5" in the rear or if you got the Z07 suspension (similar to your Z51) you got 9.5" on all 4 corners. These became the last vettes that you can run the same size wheels and tires and be able to rotate front to back. I run 275x40x17 some guys who autocross will go even wider but it's not really needed on the street. The car will already drive like a slot car.
Only the ZR1 and the Grand sport came with 11" wide rear wheels and you said your're looking for an LT1 car.
The 94 - 96 sport seats are expensive to recover because that group only comes with the foam already glued to the leather. (but they are IMHO the most comfortable ) If you're going with an A4 they came with two different rearend ratios 2.59 & 3.07 you want the 3.07.
Get yourself a 95 or 96. Mileage is not that critical if there are good maintenance records. My car has 134K and still runs strong.
Most LT1 cars came with either 8.5" wheels in front with 9.5" in the rear or if you got the Z07 suspension (similar to your Z51) you got 9.5" on all 4 corners. These became the last vettes that you can run the same size wheels and tires and be able to rotate front to back. I run 275x40x17 some guys who autocross will go even wider but it's not really needed on the street. The car will already drive like a slot car.
Only the ZR1 and the Grand sport came with 11" wide rear wheels and you said your're looking for an LT1 car.
The 94 - 96 sport seats are expensive to recover because that group only comes with the foam already glued to the leather. (but they are IMHO the most comfortable ) If you're going with an A4 they came with two different rearend ratios 2.59 & 3.07 you want the 3.07.
Tony: Look for "G44" and "G92" RPO codes under the center console (if they're still there on the car you look at).
All I can say is... its worth it.
Last edited by JD Shredds; Mar 17, 2018 at 02:44 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,841
Likes: 19
From: CLT, North Carolina
While sizing up a potential purchase look under the seats and floormats for evidence of being wet which indicates leaking weatherstripping. Seat tracks and parking brake mechanism may be rusty also which is a sure sign. Look under the car for oil leaks and do not underestimate what it will take to fix them. Manually test every switch for properly operating equipment and again do not underestimate the cost of fixing things. Buy a Carfax to check for the number of previous owners and look for collision damage history. Be careful about underestimating any needed paint work. Rough interior parts are also expensive to replace. Make sure it does not need a new windshield, there are few remaining glass technicians who know how to replace a C4 windshield.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 2,099
Likes: 47
From: Minneapolis MN
Every year of LT1 production there were improvements made.
Get yourself a 95 or 96. Mileage is not that critical if there are good maintenance records. My car has 134K and still runs strong.
Most LT1 cars came with either 8.5" wheels in front with 9.5" in the rear or if you got the Z07 suspension (similar to your Z51) you got 9.5" on all 4 corners. These became the last vettes that you can run the same size wheels and tires and be able to rotate front to back. I run 275x40x17 some guys who autocross will go even wider but it's not really needed on the street. The car will already drive like a slot car.
Only the ZR1 and the Grand sport came with 11" wide rear wheels and you said your're looking for an LT1 car.
The 94 - 96 sport seats are expensive to recover because that group only comes with the foam already glued to the leather. (but they are IMHO the most comfortable ) If you're going with an A4 they came with two different rearend ratios 2.59 & 3.07 you want the 3.07.
Get yourself a 95 or 96. Mileage is not that critical if there are good maintenance records. My car has 134K and still runs strong.
Most LT1 cars came with either 8.5" wheels in front with 9.5" in the rear or if you got the Z07 suspension (similar to your Z51) you got 9.5" on all 4 corners. These became the last vettes that you can run the same size wheels and tires and be able to rotate front to back. I run 275x40x17 some guys who autocross will go even wider but it's not really needed on the street. The car will already drive like a slot car.
Only the ZR1 and the Grand sport came with 11" wide rear wheels and you said your're looking for an LT1 car.
The 94 - 96 sport seats are expensive to recover because that group only comes with the foam already glued to the leather. (but they are IMHO the most comfortable ) If you're going with an A4 they came with two different rearend ratios 2.59 & 3.07 you want the 3.07.
Same as FX3, right ?
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Drifting
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 1,274
Likes: 399
From: Tacoma WA
2024 C4 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
The ZO7 option offers a lot of handling and braking improvements over the stock base model. Spring rates are 50% more than on a base model and 24% higher than on the ZR1 so it handles like a dream but do not expect a "soft" riding car.
If you were not looking for an automatic a 1996 LT4 is the way to go. A lot of internal improvements in the engine that make them even more durable than the LT1.
If you were not looking for an automatic a 1996 LT4 is the way to go. A lot of internal improvements in the engine that make them even more durable than the LT1.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 243
Likes: 27
From: Rocky River OH
The ZO7 option offers a lot of handling and braking improvements over the stock base model. Spring rates are 50% more than on a base model and 24% higher than on the ZR1 so it handles like a dream but do not expect a "soft" riding car.
If you were not looking for an automatic a 1996 LT4 is the way to go. A lot of internal improvements in the engine that make them even more durable than the LT1.
If you were not looking for an automatic a 1996 LT4 is the way to go. A lot of internal improvements in the engine that make them even more durable than the LT1.
Anyway, if I got a C4 I would cruise with it and put on some serious road trip miles. An LT4 would be nice and I appreciate that it is more robust, but getting an automatic would be an easier sell to you-know-who. And, when I want to shift gears I have the C6.
I have to start working on a neighbor 3 houses down. He has an LT1 C4 Auto that he rarely drives and has been complaining because his DD sits outside. A plan is taking shape...
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 2,024
Likes: 363
From: Central Alabama
One thing I didn't see mentioned is the heater core. It's a pain to change so some people just bypass them.
When I bought my 92 it was bypassed and the seller denied knowing anything about it. But it ended up dropping the price by a grand.
When I bought my 92 it was bypassed and the seller denied knowing anything about it. But it ended up dropping the price by a grand.
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 1,274
Likes: 399
From: Tacoma WA
2024 C4 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
Racer
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 452
Likes: 136
All the basics come to mind...get as close to a "Turn Key" car as possible. Run a Car Fax...that way you don't buy a wreck with a salvage title. Add a plus mark to cars that have been well maintained with documentation.
I by passed a few because the power seats did not work...I couldn't even get behind the wheel to drive 2 of them!!
Good luck !!
I by passed a few because the power seats did not work...I couldn't even get behind the wheel to drive 2 of them!!
Good luck !!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 2,054
Likes: 120
From: AZ
Another consideration, given your spousal factor. C4s entry.exit is the most difficult of any generation and is less refined that your C6. You don't mention age, but perhaps she should accompany you to at least one inspection, to try one on, since you speak of sharing it.
My non-stock Z51 C4 is far more raw than stock, so 'she' is far more likely to go anywhere in my C5 than the C4. The C4 is a bit less travel friendly w/o a real trunk and a more snug cockpit.
My non-stock Z51 C4 is far more raw than stock, so 'she' is far more likely to go anywhere in my C5 than the C4. The C4 is a bit less travel friendly w/o a real trunk and a more snug cockpit.
Pro
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 656
Likes: 79
From: Jackson Wisconsin
Agreed on all counts. What are your intentions? Prices can go from a few grand to low teens. Even more for the ZR1 twin cam. If you're going to keep it and run up the miles there should be plenty available, even with low mileage but don't be swayed. Low mile cars can be money pits too. A nice well maintained one is best. If its ratty looking it probably has not been maintained. If its pristine with wear it should be OK. Just use your head when you buy, and don't be fooled. There are plenty of them out there, especially automatics. Your patience will be rewarded. By the way, my wife drives a manual and loves driving my M6. Its easy to get used to. After 3 years I still nick reverse occasionally.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 2,692
Likes: 349
From: Sacramento California
Aside from what's been said already...
If you just want a good running car that is reliable and won't require too much upkeep, I would not bother with any car that has modifications. A few small mods here and there to resolve known issues are fine. But any big changes to the body, suspension, drivetrain/performance, electronics, etc. I would walk away. Lots of these cars were made and you will find a good one in your price range, just don't succumb to Corvette fever during the search/shopping process -- an impulsive buy can be a big mistake. Take your time and find the right one for you... you might have to look a few hundred miles away like I did, but I found my car
If you just want a good running car that is reliable and won't require too much upkeep, I would not bother with any car that has modifications. A few small mods here and there to resolve known issues are fine. But any big changes to the body, suspension, drivetrain/performance, electronics, etc. I would walk away. Lots of these cars were made and you will find a good one in your price range, just don't succumb to Corvette fever during the search/shopping process -- an impulsive buy can be a big mistake. Take your time and find the right one for you... you might have to look a few hundred miles away like I did, but I found my car
Last edited by DGXR; Mar 20, 2018 at 12:29 PM.