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I have two 92 vetts one a coupe and one a vert.
Well went out the other night to let them run a bit and both started right up and idled and ran super great. Let them run for about a half hour so to get them at operating temp and all the juices flowing. Then shut them off and went inside.
Well it was a nice day today and thought I'd take them for a spin on the highway to stretch their legs as they haven't been actually out driven for about a month. I jumped in the coupe and drove it for about a half hour and ran her back in the garage then went to drive the vert.
I got in it and all it would do is just spin and turn over but not hint to actual starting.
It's so strange that it's been running so well just two nights ago and now I go out and nothing but just turns over. So far I did a fuel pressure check and it was great.
BTW the car has had a new water pump, plugs, wire set and a opti recently. BTW she also has 41K on the clock.
You just need to find out what's missing... fuel. injector pulse or spark. If it cools down and then starts makes it a little harder to figure out. You could check to see if a code set.
You just need to find out what's missing... fuel. injector pulse or spark. If it cools down and then starts makes it a little harder to figure out. You could check to see if a code set.
Just as I was looking around here on the forum and answering another question I went out and she fired right up and is now seemly running great....Go figure...
You might make a " No Start kit" ... spark tester, noid light, fuel pressure gauge, and a DVOM. so if it happens again you are prepared. Just toss in the rear compartment. You can always move it from vehicle to vehicle as necessary, including when traveling.
I know we all just don't like throwing parts at this but I was talking to a vette friend of mine as we got talking and his did the exact same thing. I it drove him crazy for a while it would just pick it's time to do it and was always on a cold start like mine and he'd gather all his stuff up to try to diagnose it and bam it would start. Then he got talking to a local corvette shop and they said to try the coil and sure enough it worked. The guy at the vette shop said he sees this all the time on the C4's and f-body's especially on the 92 vettes and early f-body cars so I'm going to go get one and try it just for grins. It can't hurt as the one on it is 26 years old and slowly I'm slowly replacing sensor's (OEM of course) on this car anyways. But I will take your tip on the no start kit too so if it does it again and I have two 92's for to use it on.
No what? Your going to have to let it run a long time to burn off all the
moisture in the crankcase and exhaust Not to mention your doing nothing for the rest of the drive line and brakes.
No what? Your going to have to let it run a long time to burn off all the
moisture in the crankcase and exhaust Not to mention your doing nothing for the rest of the drive line and brakes.
There is absolutely nothing wrong with starting a car and letting it run for awhile then shutting it off again.
If you like moisture in your engine and exhaust that’s your deal.
Yeah I love it, especially since there has never been one single engine or exhaust failure, ever, in the history of engines, that can be traced to "moisture in the oil" due to being started from time to time.
Don't fall for urban legend bs.
Yeah I love it, especially since there has never been one single engine or exhaust failure, ever, in the history of engines, that can be traced to "moisture in the oil" due to being started from time to time.
Don't fall for urban legend bs.
you never seen exhaust system rust out due to people having short trips all the time. if not you should get out more
That's your imagination getting the best of you. You might as well blame the weather or Trump or Obama.
really then where does the water that comes out of your tail pipe come from? I will say since newer exhaust is made out of more corrosion resistant material they will last longer
Starting engine to let it warm up it more about increased wear because engine runs very rich on start up. The over rich condition can wash oil from cylinder walls leading to increased ring wear. When the O2 sensor becomes active the ecm will correct over fueling. Excessive moisture in exhaust causing corrosion will be regional. It still isn't recommended it let engine warm up. You would be better to start and take a 20 min or so drive avoiding stop and go traffic.If possible highway would be better.
really then where does the water that comes out of your tail pipe come from? I will say since newer exhaust is made out of more corrosion resistant material they will last longer
It comes from the tailpipe. A better question is how did it get there in the first place, and once you know the answer, then you will realize the error in your assessment.
Last edited by PatternDayTrader; Mar 21, 2018 at 09:28 PM.
Starting engine to let it warm up it more about increased wear because engine runs very rich on start up. The over rich condition can wash oil from cylinder walls leading to increased ring wear. When the O2 sensor becomes active the ecm will correct over fueling. Excessive moisture in exhaust causing corrosion will be regional. It still isn't recommended it let engine warm up. You would be better to start and take a 20 min or so drive avoiding stop and go traffic.If possible highway would be better.
The engine runs with an air fuel ratio that's appropriate for its temp. The reason (the only reason) the manufacturers don't recommend allowing the car to warm up is solely due to the diminished fuel mileage.
The choke cycle will create a/f ratios below the ideal 14.7 to 1. The overfueling is easier to ignite in a cold engine. Once engine temp increases less fuel is required and ECM will reduce injector on time. HO2 speed up the closed loop ecm control, compared to the pre obd2 cars. Way back before smart phones and engines used carburetors there was a choke plate. It was controlled by bimetallic coil once it warmed up. The choke plate would fall open and when the accelerator was depressed the carburetor would go from cold fast idle to idle. During that time the plate reduced air entering engine.
The choke cycle will create a/f ratios below the ideal 14.7 to 1. The overfueling is easier to ignite in a cold engine. Once engine temp increases less fuel is required and ECM will reduce injector on time. HO2 speed up the closed loop ecm control, compared to the pre obd2 cars. Way back before smart phones and engines used carburetors there was a choke plate. It was controlled by bimetallic coil once it warmed up. The choke plate would fall open and when the accelerator was depressed the carburetor would go from cold fast idle to idle. During that time the plate reduced air entering engine.
In other words, every cold engine becomes a warm engine, and the a/f ratio is adjusted accordingly.