HELP!!! 1985 c4 issue





I would seriously look inside the gas tank! gas after it has sat inside a metal tank will leave a residue (brown in color) on the sided of the tank. The residue will INSTANTLY contaminate new gas. Another way to check for this is to smell the gas, if it doesn't smell anything like gas then that's your problem. In that case the tank can be cleaned maybe replaced. Please don't assume the fuel filter is bad, test it. Take your mouth an blow through it, it should flow as free as if the filter wasn't even even in front of your mouth.
One question, What is with the 93 octane? I have an 85 and it does not benefit from that stuff. unless you have a modded engine. I am just curious.
Last edited by BowerPower; Apr 3, 2018 at 09:19 PM.
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I'm guessing you have air so that kinda leaves fuel and spark. It seems like a problem when it goes into closed loop so at that point, check the fuel pressure and the spark quality. It should be a steady blue flame. Are the plug wires leaking? All it takes is a dark garage and a fine mist of water around the plug wires. How is the cap and rotor? When it happens, is the pressure still good and the spark quality still there? Also rap the ECM if it is easily available. I'm not sure for an 85 but in a 91 it is in the engine bay.

I'm guessing you have air so that kinda leaves fuel and spark. It seems like a problem when it goes into closed loop so at that point, check the fuel pressure and the spark quality. It should be a steady blue flame. Are the plug wires leaking? All it takes is a dark garage and a fine mist of water around the plug wires. How is the cap and rotor? When it happens, is the pressure still good and the spark quality still there? Also rap the ECM if it is easily available. I'm not sure for an 85 but in a 91 it is in the engine bay.
ECM is defiantly not in the engine bay. It should be under the dash on the passenger side. I have not taken the time to look on my 85, but it is the only place I have not been, and I have not seen it anywhere else. It is what I am told, though.
As for your issue, what the others have said seems right. Check that you have fuel pressure when you are driving, I had to do it by taping the pressure gauge to my windsheild. OReily's sold me a bad fuel pump, which at first just had the car sputter, and after ~3 minutes of dying at idle the pump gave out. If you pulled crud out of the fuel filter, there is a chance that the pump/sock are contaminated as well.
The 'random-ness' of your issue would tend to make me suspect spark over fuel, however. Check the cap/rotor/contacts. Bad wires/plugs could definitely cause this. I have long tube headers, and they would melt my first two sets of wires, so it would run fine when cold and new, then worse and worse as the plug got hot/deteriorated.
It might also be worth checking timing - My girlfriend's 86 would miss at random, and it turned out her dad had the distributor loose when he passed. So when I was working on getting the car running for her again, it would miss some, and backfire/frontfire (in the intake) seemingly at random. Turns out that bumps were changing timing, oops.
Lastly, I'd suspect that a sensor is causing this issue. You'd have a trouble light on if a sensor was way off, so without the light, I think that it would be unlikely that the car misses due to a bad sensor. But, check the MAF sensor to make sure it's wires (the wires inside the tube) are intact, it could cause bucking/missing if it mis-reported. You can clean the MAF as well, dad's F250 will buck unless the MAF is cleaned every oil change or so. He uses brake cleaner.
I hope you manage to fix it! These kinds of issues can be super frustrating.
I hope you manage to fix it! These kinds of issues can be super frustrating.
Why? I would be curious unless he has a K&N and dunks it in oil. That or there is something that gets left behind in the brake cleaner.
Why? I would be curious unless he has a K&N and dunks it in oil. That or there is something that gets left behind in the brake cleaner.
A few weeks ago my 85 would start and run fine, but a minute after taking off down the road it would loose almost all its power. Trying to accelerate it would hesitate with some sputtering, but WOT it worked fine. The check engine light came on most of the time claiming MAF circuit High voltage and low voltage. It would idle just fine though.
I highly doubt that it is MAF if it idles misfires at idle. If you want to test if it is a MAF, "borrow" one from the parts store and use it to test the problem. Return the part if it is not fixed. You seem like you are describing a misfire, but I have had people wrongly describe problems to me. Which makes fixing the car harder when it is not doing what they describe. Honestly, it's due to non-mechanics not knowing the lingo of the mechanics.
Can confirm that your car will not throw a code for misfire. Though, as someone mention it may cause other code to be shown that are not the actual problem.
An oily K&N could do it, a friends F-Body blew black smoke out of the tailpipes after 'installing' a K&N. Needless to say, it was oily, and you could trace the oil all the way down into the intake.
Disconnecting the MAF is a good call though, the same F-Body in question ran better with it's MAF unplugged - I imagine that the burnoff + oil didn't treat the MAF very well. OP could give that a try and report back.













