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Stuck Valve Cover Bolt

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Old Apr 19, 2018 | 08:19 AM
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Default Stuck Valve Cover Bolt

Developed a leak from the rear of the passenger side valve cover on my 1994 LT1 and noticed the rear valve cover bolt was loose. When attempting to torque the cap to FSM recommendations, the threaded part of the cap broke off, in the bolt stem. Got a replacement bolt and cap, but cannot get the old stem out. Seems to be seized up good and hard to get any real torque on the round stem shaft. Anyone have a similar situation and if so, how did you resolve? Thx
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Old Apr 19, 2018 | 10:40 AM
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Have you tried vice grips, is the valve cover off ?
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Old Apr 19, 2018 | 10:53 AM
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A small pipe wrench can be very helpful, sometimes
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Old Apr 19, 2018 | 04:06 PM
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Thank you for your replies.....

Have tried vice grips after applying penetrating oil and letting sit. Can't seem to get enough "bite" on the round shaft of the bolt. Applied more oil just now and will attempt again. Have gently tapped with a hammer too, in the hopes of breaking the bind.

Might have to take to my trusted shop, but am worried about the 15 mile drive, as there will be an open hole in the top of the valve cover and no real seal at the back of the valve cover as a result. Can find a way to plug the hole, but don't know what to do about securing the back portion of the valve cover securely on the gasket.

Ideas?
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Old Apr 19, 2018 | 05:04 PM
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Why wouldn't you remove the valve cover then remove the stud and replace with new and appropriate hardware?

An eBay search will resolve visual issues if you're not familiar with the way it's configured.

10108674 should get you visuals.
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Old Apr 19, 2018 | 08:47 PM
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Can you weld? If so you could weld any number of things to it to aid in it's extraction.
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Old Apr 20, 2018 | 09:01 AM
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Unfortunately, I have no welding skills or equipment....

The valve cover has been removed. The bolt stem does extend p past the valves themselves, so I think I me going to attempt to slot the top of the stem, so I can attempt to remove with a screwdriver. Hopefully, that will provide enough torque to break the stem free.

I do have a new stem and torx cap to re-assemble the valve cover, assuming this works.

BTW... the bolt stems and torx caps are getting hard to locate, so anyone with an LT1 might want to think about keeping a couple on hand as spares. Not very expensive, when you can find them.
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Old Apr 20, 2018 | 09:37 AM
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Originally Posted by moco65
Unfortunately, I have no welding skills or equipment....

The valve cover has been removed. The bolt stem does extend p past the valves themselves, so I think I me going to attempt to slot the top of the stem, so I can attempt to remove with a screwdriver. Hopefully, that will provide enough torque to break the stem free.

I do have a new stem and torx cap to re-assemble the valve cover, assuming this works.

BTW... the bolt stems and torx caps are getting hard to locate, so anyone with an LT1 might want to think about keeping a couple on hand as spares. Not very expensive, when you can find them.

Why wouldn't you just try a drill chuck and 'reverse'?
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Old Apr 20, 2018 | 09:40 AM
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OMG.... I never thought of that! Simplicity is genius.

Will try this weekend and let you know if it worked
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Old Apr 27, 2018 | 08:51 AM
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Sorry for the late follow up and thanks again for all of your suggestions.

I ended up slotting the bolt stem with a Dremel, but was still unable to break it free with a screwdriver. Actually, I broke the blade on the screwdriver in an attempt to remove. However, as luck would have it, one half of the slotted bolt head bent outward a little in the process and was just enough surface for me to use the vice grips without them spinning. Broke the bolt free once enough torque was applied.

Got the new bolt stem and bolt cap on and she's running great again. No leaks either.

Now I'm just waiting for a new passenger side fuel rail cover, which was brittle and finally broke when being removed. Ahhh.... life with a 20+ year old car - but I wouldn't give it up for anything.
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Old Apr 27, 2018 | 09:11 AM
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Amen to that! By the way, I've had some luck applyingk localized heat with a propane torch. Pack the head with an insulator and get the bolt hot, it will expand enough to break the bond with the head.
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