stabac

The two 1/4" holes drilled in the sill at the bottom------ do you press the pins out of the regulator and peen them over after installing, or what?
What would be a proper lubricant for all the movable parts on the regulator-----grease, white lithium, light oil?
Thanks,
Frank

Joe C

I converted my 85 over to the later power window assemblies, and I do remember drilling two holes in the bottom of the door. I don't remember any pins in the regulator and peening anything - it was a bolt in installation. i'm thinking I used a couple metric (i'm thinking m6-???) "sem" body mount bolts - I want to say around 20-25mm length. aside from drilling the two holes, and reverse wiring the window motor on the passenger's side, it was pretty much plug and play mod. as I recall, it was a fairly easy changeover. for the lube, I cleaned up my assemblies and used a synthetic grease on pivot points and moving parts. it's been about three years now - everything's still working w/o issues. I used the on-line retrofit instructions from Mid-America Corvette.

stabac

It seems every thread I look at Joe is there. You are a real asset to this Forum. Thank you Joe
This is what it looks like. I think I'll just grind the pins off, use the spacers and follow your instructions.

stabac

I'm sorry, I'm looking at it all wrong, this is the side of the reg. I've located the bottom with the threads in the holes and are at the 215/16 dim apart

Joe C

if I remember correctly, that bracket piece you're referring to has something to do with the "up" window stop. I know for sure I did not do any grinding and pin removal. trying to do this from memory - there should be another bracket (see pic) - it might have a yellow di-chromate finish. i'm thinking that bracket is bolted to the inner door frame, and it is a crucial part of the operation. removing those pins will negate the "up" stop. proceed with caution....

85 Stalker

Not trying to jack this thread but how truly difficult is this upgrade. I already have the OEM scissor regulators for my 85 - but I'm waiting for my interior guy to get me in. If it is much longer I may try it myself.

I'm tool / mechanical competent, my issue is that I'm disabled and don't want to get in over my head if it requires a ton of dexterity.

Suggestions?

stabac

I'm about 3/4 through the project and I would say 90% of it is just turning screws/bolts. The hardest part will probably be drilling 2 1/4 holes..

Joe C

the only thing that is complicated, is the location of the two holes that must be drilled in the bottom of the door. be precise - measure twice and drill once. with the exception of reversing the wiring on the passenger side motor, it's IMO, a easy mod. you pretty much have to gut the door assembly, but it all just boils down to nuts and bolts. several good on-line "how-to's" on the subject - http://www.corvettemagazine.com/tech...grade-install/ . I was lucky in that my window adjustment seemed like they fell into place. one other thing - on later models, there's a rubber stop in the bottom of the door. as far as I know, they are not available aftermarket. I was lucky enough to get a pair from another forum member. I did dress the wiring harnesses and installed the later model foam moisture barrier as part of my retrofit. as far as dexterity - smaller hands are a plus, and some areas, it's strictly "touchy feely." one good thing about the mod - you'll be able to get in there and clean and lube all the lock/unlock mechanisms. tech note - when testing the regulator assemblies, no need to connect/disconnect the battery for testing. I used an old battery charger as a 12v power supply directly to the motors. get everything right before you button-up and re-install the door panels. take your time and don't rush anything. I don't remember how long it took, but I was in no hurry. may have screwed around a day or two on each door. good luck!

stabac

stabac

I've removed all the bolts holding the inner panel in place, the one that has the clear plastic attached to it, not the brace.
It still seems to be firmly attached, does it require some force to get it up and out, or have I missed a bolt or two (don't think I missed any)

EDIT: NEVER MIND, I FIGURED OUT MY ERROR.......THAT PANEL DOESN'T GET REMOVED

ex-x-fire

I guess this is a good place to save my GM instructions that came w/ the updated regulator for my 84.

stabac

Thanks ex-x-fire. I've been going down the wrong path here so long I've begun to get worried about remembering how to put it back together, this will help a lot

ghr4news

I Changed mine also in the passenger side and it bolted right on to the two bottom holes where the old regulator was mounted. I also didn't need to switch the wiring around. After testing the control switch, the window went up and down like it is supposed to. As to lubricant. I use a waterproof lubricant. Best one I found is bicycle chain grease. Its not that expensive and does a good job keeping links lubed.
GR

stabac

The reason I'm replacing with the the new regulator is the nylon belt broke on my OEM. I had to use my Dremel to cut the belt and remove the old regulator.
The end that goes forward, behind the Bose Speaker is stuck. I hate to remove the speaker to get to it and perhaps screw up the sound system.
How would I remove that end of the strip, or would it hurt to just leave it there?

diycorvette

Do NOT leave it there.

It's likely stuck because you missed a bolt on the side. Look inside the door with a flashlight/headlamp and look to see it.

The speaker is easily removed, and the amplifier is below it (safely tucked inside a plastic shroud and covered in an epoxy for weatherproofing). Just label the speaker terminals with the color wire they go to (or take a picture). I just used sharpie.