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Rough Engine, No Fault Codes

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Old Oct 4, 2018 | 03:58 PM
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Default Rough Engine, No Fault Codes

This week I bought a 1992 LT-1 Corvette with 100,000 miles on it. The previous owner said a shop told him that the timing chain was bad, but I'm not so sure. It starts right up, but sounds rough. The condition persist at other RPM's leading me to think it could be a valve problem or broken spring. However, at idle, it acts like it could be a vacuum leak, as the speed walks up and down. Interestingly, even with the rough condition, no fault codes are displayed! I don't mind digging into a rebuild, but want to make sure I'm not missing something.

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Old Oct 4, 2018 | 04:05 PM
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If the problem at idle while driving at a steady speed or both? Vacuum leak near check valve under right injector cover is very common. FPR leaking fuel into vacuum hose is another common concern.
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Old Oct 4, 2018 | 04:38 PM
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Thank you for taking the time to help!
​​​The rough condition is worst at idle, under some load (stopped, in drive), but the condition is noticeable at higher RPM's and in Park as well. It has never died, but the variations in idle speed make me think your ideas are promising.

I did notice the short 90 degrees bend vacuum line on the right front, under the cover was cracked. I'll change that. Do you have any tip to find other potential sources?
Where should I look for the fuel leak in a vacuum line?

I alao wondered if the ECM could be bad, as I'm not getting any fault codes on the car, which surprises me.
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Old Oct 5, 2018 | 05:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Kevova
If the problem at idle while driving at a steady speed or both? Vacuum leak near check valve under right injector cover is very common. FPR leaking fuel into vacuum hose is another common concern.
Thank you for your ideas!
It runs rough at all speeds, but most noticeably under some load (idle, stopped, in drive). It has never died, and starts quickly every time. I'll take a look at the Fuel Pressure Regulator. I did find one vacuum line that was degraded. I'll check for more.
I just don't understand why it's not generating any fault codes. I wonder if the ECM could be bad. The engine RPM cycles by about 300 rpm (higher and lower at idle), like its searching. Still, if the throttle position switch, fuel pressure regulator, or some emissions component was seeing or sending bad signals, I would expect to see a fault code as the engine is definitely missing at all times.
The previous owner said he only drove it 5 miles every 2 months of so, and it stayed in the garage. Since he only drove it 8,000 miles in 14 years, I believe the car has sat a lot recently. I wondered about old fuel in the tank, and have been trying to burn through it with SeaFoam cleaner, mixed as specified on the can. In over 100 miles driven, I can't notice any difference yet, and I'm leary to drive it too long in this condition.
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Old Oct 5, 2018 | 07:37 AM
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OBD doesn't have parameters to set codes as OBD2. There was a recall related to the Optispark effecting the 92s. A scope test could indicate open wire or fouled plugs. A Tune Up maybe where to start. Plugs, wires, filter..etc. Cap and rotor unfortunately water pump has to be removed to replace them.
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Old Oct 5, 2018 | 07:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Chuck_Roberts
This week I bought a 1992 LT-1 Corvette with 100,000 miles on it. The previous owner said a shop told him that the timing chain was bad, but I'm not so sure. It starts right up, but sounds rough. The condition persist at other RPM's leading me to think it could be a valve problem or broken spring. However, at idle, it acts like it could be a vacuum leak, as the speed walks up and down. Interestingly, even with the rough condition, no fault codes are displayed! I don't mind digging into a rebuild, but want to make sure I'm not missing something.
You need to do a complete tune up to start. Even a couple bad wires could cause the symptoms you describe
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Old Oct 5, 2018 | 10:25 AM
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I agree with the others. Always start with a tuneup; plugs, wires, before going any further.
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Old Oct 5, 2018 | 07:15 PM
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This Forum is outstanding,! Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience.
Today I fixed a vacuum leak, my wife prayed, and maybe the SeaFoam worked to help clean up an injector or two, but the car smoothed out significantly, and easily passed emmissions. Wow. I didn't expect that.
My To-Do List includes that tune-up, and some electrical work. Thanks again!
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Old Mar 3, 2019 | 11:16 AM
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Just to follow-up, the car spent a lot of time sitting over the past 14 years with the previous owner, and the engine had a consistent miss. I fixed a vacuum leak near the right front injector, as suggested by Kevova, and completed a tune-up to include new spark plugs (one was definitely bad), spark plug wires, fuel injectors with Bosh 3, and the fuel filter as suggested by Cruisinfanatic and 383vett. Now the engine runs strong for a stock 27 year-old car with 101K miles on it. Thanks for the suggestions!
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Old Mar 3, 2019 | 01:53 PM
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[QUOTE=Chuck_Roberts;1598979078]Just to follow-up, the car spent a lot of time sitting over the past 14 years with the previous owner, and the engine had a consistent miss. I fixed a vacuum leak near the right front injector, as suggested by Kevova, and completed a tune-up to include new spark plugs (one was definitely bad), spark plug wires, fuel injectors with Bosh 3, and the fuel filter as suggested by Cruisinfanatic and 383vett. Now the engine runs strong for a stock 27 year-old car with 101K miles on it. Thanks for the suggestions![/QUOTE

Great, congratulations. Enjoy the ride.
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Old Mar 4, 2019 | 09:40 AM
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You mentioned replacing the injectors. Just about any new injectors are going to be alcohol tolerant. But, just my luck, my car went into a GM shop (in 2007) for new injectors too. However, they installed more of the same alcohol susceptible (NOS) injectors. So, in a year or so not only did my symptoms sound very much like yours, but I also ended up with a burnt exhaust valve to boot!

Point being...just wanna be sure the injectors were NOT manufactrued pre-93!

Just sayin....
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Old Mar 4, 2019 | 10:02 AM
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now that you have fixed possible problems, make sure all of your vacuum lines and elbows are good and not cracked, and just for the heck of it pull the vac line off the egr in back of engine, you will get a rough idle,and drive it a short distance you should get a code if you dont then you may have a problem with computer , again replace all rubber v lines, they will get hard an crack.

Last edited by bob arrowsmith; Mar 4, 2019 at 10:03 AM.
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