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I had an interesting day with the new Vette. I think this Vette has sat for several years with only minimal use. Tuesday the L/F brake locked up. Checked the caliper and it was frozen. I replaced the caliper yesterday and drove it for about 30 miles with no problem. Today I took the car in for a new windshield and coming home the L/F locked up again. I suspect a bad brake line. I am also concerned with the wheel bearing and it did throw some grease. Besides that the power antenna and door looks quit working. Not sure if the two issues are related.
I am thinking about ordering parts from Rock Auto. I plan on replacing the L/F rotor, pads, both front brake lines and the L/F wheel bearing. I can AC Delco in everything. The wheel bearing no name parts are way cheaper and say they meet OEM specs. Anyone have any experience with the no name parts. Probably not worth a $70 savings to take a chance but I thought I would ask.
I am also looking for a good front brake diagram. I am not sure the brakes were put together right. The new caliper included new caliper pins and rubber seals with flat washers. The old parts had no washers. There was also a tin brace that I have no idea where it would go. Thanks, Bob
If you can get the AC Delco parts close to the same $$$ as the aftermarket go for it. Otherwise there's no need to spend the extra $$$
Is the tin brace roughly the same size as the pads? If so that is supposed to go between the pads and caliper. It's supposed to eliminate any squeaking. Or, if it sort of looks like a cotter pin with a large loop on the end, that attaches to the pad (inner I think) is a pad wear indicator. It makes a squeaking noise when your pads are low. As far as the washers more than likely the previous owners just didn't bother to re-install them.
You are on the right track for the brake lock up. The hose is your problem. I had one go bad once with the same results. Apparently the liner in the hose gets a hole in it and separates between the out casing. Once you apply the brakes fluid is forced in between the two and locks everything up tight until the pressure is relieved, usually very slowly. New hoses will cure your brake problems. Good luck.
Here is a picture of the extra parts that were included in the caliper bag. The two flat washers were on the caliper slide pins and I am not sure where the H piece goes. The old assembly had nothing. I am also curious is I have the brake pads right. I have the two springs sitting on the caliper but not hooked on anything. The pads fell out when I removed the caliper so I didn't get a good look.
That is next. I am trying to keep up with the failed systems. I thought I purchased a good car but I am beginning to wonder. Everything was working and now it is not. Pretty much a 3 owner car with this owner having it for 40K. I think he was an honest guy but but it has been sitting. I had forgotten how cheap the electrical switches in 1980's cars were. It would be nice if the Ecklers folks would upgrade some of the components. The antenna has been replaced recently but now has failed. The door locks quit working as well as the radio. I think that may be related to the antenna. Oh boy, what a ride.
Hope you have the 85 fsm....i've worn mine out but it's been handy......how is it the door locks don't work?....they're manual locks aren't they??? at least on my 85 they are....
The wheel bearing no name parts are way cheaper and say they meet OEM specs. Anyone have any experience with the no name parts. Probably not worth a $70 savings to take a chance but I thought I would ask.
I personally put 2 "white box" bearing assemblies on the rear of my 84. One bearing was $40 and the other was $50 from amazon. Usually with the cheap parts the ABS sensors fail but my 84' doesn't have ABS so I'm good. Time will tell but the car runs 11.50's at the track so the stress will certainly test the cheap bearings. I didn't buy MOOG or Timkin because they are both 2x the price and are made overseas these days. I even called Timkin to confirm they didn't offer a USA built unit and told them I would only buy their bearings in the future if they were built in the USA. The cheap bearings haven't been on the car all that long so time will tell! Fingers crossed!
Also the H-piece goes in the center of the caliper. It's what the "springs" on the pads slide back and forth on.
So the springs just rest on the H piece and don't actually hook on the tabs? Any idea on the washers?
The h piece has to be wedged into the center of the caliper and that holds that piece in place and unless I'm wrong the brake pad springs just push against it. (that's how mine was before I did the C5 brake upgrade) The washers I believe look like replacement seals for the banjo bolt. If they are aluminum like they look like then I would imagine that's what they are. Some come with copper and some come with aluminum. No idea why. Aluminum is probably cheaper...
This may sound bad but that H piece and a few washers isn't going to affect your cars brake in any ways. You're gonna be fine. Just let it be and everything will be fine.
As far as the door locks and antenna is probably a fuse. My under hood lights bleed that fuse and the interior lights don't turn on automatically, door locks, antenna and a few other things didnt work. I'd check that.
This may sound bad but that H piece and a few washers isn't going to affect your cars brake in any ways. You're gonna be fine. Just let it be and everything will be fine.
As far as the door locks and antenna is probably a fuse. My under hood lights bleed that fuse and the interior lights don't turn on automatically, door locks, antenna and a few other things didnt work. I'd check that.
The H piece allows the pad springs to slide instead of getting hung up on the cast aluminum caliper. I would imagine not using them you would see increased pad wear from drag. I don't want to be that guy but advising someone to ignore parts that a very smart individual engineered to be included in the brake system is pretty dumb. I will agree that you shouldn't need to replace the banjo bolt washers but I would use the H piece if it was me. Like I said I didn't want to be that guy but saying it won't affect his brakes at all is false.
The H piece allows the pad springs to slide instead of getting hung up on the cast aluminum caliper. I would imagine not using them you would see increased pad wear from drag. I don't want to be that guy but advising someone to ignore parts that a very smart individual engineered to be included in the brake system is pretty dumb. I will agree that you shouldn't need to replace the banjo bolt washers but I would use the H piece if it was me. Like I said I didn't want to be that guy but saying it won't affect his brakes at all is false.
um... you're not that guy because I am that guy. I realize what it does. I have worked on many cars that have them for that reason. Yes, it is possible that the pads may not fully slide back as untended. It may make him have to change the brake pads a month sooner but it may not. As I said, It will be fine. The brakes will work just fine and hes not gonna die. Yes I'd recommend putting it on there if you can but no reason to worry and rush to do it.
I will have it all apart next week. I have ordered a new rotor, wheel bearing hub and brake hoses. I will check the other side and see how it looks. Thanks for the help. It wasn't in there when I took it apart so I didn't have a good reference point. the picture int he manual is pretty sketchy.