Originally Posted by confab

Anyone think the oil filter is an issue on these engines?

I notice our LS vehicles actually run better after an oil change, and I fixed a friend's LS pickup the other day with an oil change.

At idle it would drop pressure intermittently. It didn't have 3K on the oil and filter in the truck. We swapped the sensor and no change. Then it started clicking at idle when this would happen.

An oil change fixed it..

Anybody else notice strangeness here? If it's an issue for a street vehicle it will certainly be bad to a hot rod.

Originally Posted by VikingTrad3r

I have a 2006 denali xl with the lq4 (possible the last year of the denali xl was an lq9 im not sure).
It has, 400000 klms, 248000 miles. Its my family mover and when i bought the car 50000 miles ago i started using quaker state "defy" which is now called "high mileage". I have always used fram or whatever other filters are available. the vehicle always ran very well never skipped a beat. the magnetic plug has a very fine paste, about 1/4 the size of a pinky finger nail every oil change.

then on a very cold day, -30 celsius, -22 F, it was parked for about 12 hours and when i started it, the low oil pressure light came on. The engine did not sound any different but i turned it off right away. turned it on and off a few times and it would build no pressure. i was a 4 hour drive deep into the rocky mountains on boxing day. with the whole family. no cell phone service. i had just joined this forum and had started learning about engines and i decided to go with what my ears heard, which was zero issues, other than the incessant beeping from the low oil pressure warning. loaded the family in the car, took off down the highway and drove for about 2 minutes with the beeping going like crazy. I decided to punch the throttle and jack the revs and suddenly the pressure jumped up to the half way point and the beeping stopped.

got home and bought a new oil pressure sensor and swapped it out. still when i started the engine it would start with zero oil pressure and then slowwwwwwwwly build pressure. If i goosed the throttle it was like something that was stopping the pressure from building would adjust its position and suddenly the pressure would be normal.

then i realized i had used el cheapo oil and a wix filter for the first time ever. normally i used high mileage quakerstate which i started to think might have some swellers. then i hit the web and learned about the o-ring.

i dropped the oil, replaced the filter with a fram and the oil with quakerstate defy (high mileage) started the vehicle and the pressure climbed up slowly and held.

I have driven the vehcile another 30k miles since then, no issues. towed heavy boats and never had any issues.

never did figure out what the true cause was, but i suspect the oring.

Originally Posted by ihatebarkingdogs

NAPA filters are Wix. Even NAPA's part number is the Wix number without one of the leading digits (The 4 or 7 that comes after the 5 for an oil filter).

I'm responsible for, and can be held liable if a filter I install on a client's engine causes damage. I only install filters I can reasonably trust to not give me grief. Most hobbyists don't even think about the consequences of a blown crimp, or a filter media that scatters throughout the lube system and causes damage. Some of the engines I service cost more to repair than most new cars cost off the dealer's lot. WVZR is correct: I am VERY choosey about where and who's filter I purchase.

Originally Posted by ihatebarkingdogs

NAPA filters are Wix. Even NAPA's part number is the Wix number without one of the leading digits (The 4 or 7 that comes after the 5 for an oil filter). Parker now owns Racor.

I use Donaldson on my 7.3 Super Duty, and for the really big ZF reduction gears in the yachts that run filters in the main line at 400psi. The OEM ZF filters are Donaldson, so that's what I use at about half the price of a ZF-branded filter. I've used Baldwin on everything, including the 85. Depends on where I purchase my filters. One filter I refuse to use is Fram. I've cut them apart and seen the inferior construction and media area. I've also had the shells or gaskets fail. I generally don't use off the shelf brands from parts houses either.

I'm responsible for, and can be held liable if a filter I install on a client's engine causes damage. I only install filters I can reasonably trust to not give me grief. Most hobbyists don't even think about the consequences of a blown crimp, or a filter media that scatters throughout the lube system and causes damage. Some of the engines I service cost more to repair than most new cars cost off the dealer's lot. WVZR is correct: I am VERY choosey about where and who's filter I purchase.

Originally Posted by ihatebarkingdogs

[HIJACK=ON] I've had the same experience with some of the larger Volvos. I had a pair of TADM-52 (I think the model, about 350hp, about 2003 model year) that there just WASN'T an a non-OEM substitute for the bypass filters. I was able to figure out the main filters in Wix from dimensions, but there was nothing in the Wix catalogue for the little by-pass filters. I've had the same problem with a not very popular Perkins 50 HP in a Swan I've maintained for 20 years. There just isn't a non-OEM alternative. For both of these boats I purchase multiple filters from the OEM Dealer, and leave them on board so I have them available at service time. At least I don't have to make special effort to obtain filters needed for routine service.
[/HIJACK=OFF]