377 vs 383
#61
Team Owner
Pro Mechanic
Good reference. I have no doubt that's true. As I understand it, to adapt LT heads would require steam holes to be drilled plus the welding/plugging of a couple water passages. I guess on the block, I don't know what would be required to use the LT's geared water pump and optispark. The latter is required to use the PCM. So there might be a fair amount of work involved in converting over to a Gen 1 block like a 400. OTOH, it sure would be fun to gain 25 extra cubes!
#62
Le Mans Master
Yes, except I'm fantasizing about throwing my current 3.875" crank into a .030-over 400 block to get a 421 vs my current 396. But same idea.
Guessing that was supposed to be "optical converted" or "opti converted." Okay, that makes perfect sense. I see a couple writeups for making your own, and maybe the "dual-sync" aftermarket options would work? Just more time and money, but it's doable. Nothing I'm going to be worrying about any time soon, but I'll file that away in the back of my mind for the future.
the fastest, easiest way to that is a SBC 400, Miniram, and an "option converted" HEI distributor...then run it all off the LT1 ECM/harness.
#63
Team Owner
Pro Mechanic
Yes, except I'm fantasizing about throwing my current 3.875" crank into a .030-over 400 block to get a 421 vs my current 396. But same idea.
Guessing that was supposed to be "optical converted" or "opti converted." Okay, that makes perfect sense. I see a couple writeups for making your own, and maybe the "dual-sync" aftermarket options would work? Just more time and money, but it's doable. Nothing I'm going to be worrying about any time soon, but I'll file that away in the back of my mind for the future.
Guessing that was supposed to be "optical converted" or "opti converted." Okay, that makes perfect sense. I see a couple writeups for making your own, and maybe the "dual-sync" aftermarket options would work? Just more time and money, but it's doable. Nothing I'm going to be worrying about any time soon, but I'll file that away in the back of my mind for the future.
That is roughly my plan for my '92; a Gen 1 SBC 400/miniram, a Tom-converted Opti/HEI. Nothing special...but it will have that nice PULL in each gear that the stock 350 doesn't.
#64
Le Mans Master
Yes...OPTI Converted. God Damn spell check. It's like cars with doors that lock themselves for you. Great....until you can't get out.
That is roughly my plan for my '92; a Gen 1 SBC 400/miniram, a Tom-converted Opti/HEI. Nothing special...but it will have that nice PULL in each gear that the stock 350 doesn't.
That is roughly my plan for my '92; a Gen 1 SBC 400/miniram, a Tom-converted Opti/HEI. Nothing special...but it will have that nice PULL in each gear that the stock 350 doesn't.
#65
Team Owner
Pro Mechanic
Yeah, I'm sure that I will. It may be years...even decades away though. First, I need to build the 400. For that, I need disposable $$. With a family, that may never happen. :-/
My buddy has an '88 fox. He's "going to build a 347". I have two 400's in my garage -one bare, virgin block, the other a medium used short block. I'm "going to build me a 400"....some day. I joke with my buddy that we're in a drag race. We're racing to see who has their engine built/running first. We're both losing.
-Tom
.
My buddy has an '88 fox. He's "going to build a 347". I have two 400's in my garage -one bare, virgin block, the other a medium used short block. I'm "going to build me a 400"....some day. I joke with my buddy that we're in a drag race. We're racing to see who has their engine built/running first. We're both losing.
-Tom
.
Last edited by Tom400CFI; 02-06-2019 at 03:50 PM.
#66
Le Mans Master
Yeah, I'm sure that I will. It may be years...even decades away though. First, I need to build the 400. For that, I need disposable $$. With a family, that may never happen. :-/
My buddy has an '88 fox. He's "going to build a 347". I have two 400's in my garage -one bare, virgin block, the other a medium used short block. I'm "going to build me a 400"....some day. I joke with my buddy that we're in a drag race. We're racing to see who has their engine built/running first. We're both losing. .
My buddy has an '88 fox. He's "going to build a 347". I have two 400's in my garage -one bare, virgin block, the other a medium used short block. I'm "going to build me a 400"....some day. I joke with my buddy that we're in a drag race. We're racing to see who has their engine built/running first. We're both losing. .
#67
Racer
i have a 64 roadster. custom or mod. call it what you will. i have a pro built 400 stroked to 421. it's about all any sane person would want on the street and still be able to just cruise. the xtra c.i. and the torque are wonderful. yes, i have a tbi fuel injection set up on the engine.
phil
phil
#68
i have a 64 roadster. custom or mod. call it what you will. i have a pro built 400 stroked to 421. it's about all any sane person would want on the street and still be able to just cruise. the xtra c.i. and the torque are wonderful. yes, i have a tbi fuel injection set up on the engine.
phil
phil
#69
Thank you for all the feed back. Based on the input I will be going the 383 route. I may also bold on some long tube headers this season and explore the miniram set up prior to my build so I can get a some added performance (although limited I know) in the mean time.
#70
Le Mans Master
My input, rpm limitations back in the day were due to the materials of the stock cranks.... as in nodular. My current 383 is in a truck and fuel cutoff is programmed to 6300 with 6000 rpm shift points. However it has a cast crank and I'm terrified everytime it spins that high. do whatever you want. It's a freaking street car. If done right you'll never kill it anyway in either configuration.
#71
Le Mans Master
#72
Le Mans Master
And you can now buy an LS with stock block dimensions (i.e. not a tall-deck block) up to at least 468 that will live at any rpm you want. And if you have the cash, there is no good reason not to do that. No matter how well an engine breathes, more cubes is always better.
#74
just tellen the truth
the 377 has many good things goin for it less friction on the piston wall side loading less friction on the crank internally balanced less valve shrouding and higher rpm horsepower if there built the same as 383 vs 377 the 383 might get it by a few feet off the line but at the end of a 1/4 the 377 will be ahead if there both built the same i know ive tried them both and they are more efficent there less friction all the way around especially if u use a longer connecting rod less wear on the engine to any one want to argue cause i know ive done them both and a 400 has a bad connecting rod set up from the get go i dont like the rod and stroke set up and the 350 crank has less drag hopefully this will help any doubters
#75
just tellen the truth
the 377 has many good things goin for it less friction on the piston wall side loading less friction on the crank internally balanced less valve shrouding and higher rpm horsepower if there built the same as 383 vs 377 the 383 might get it by a few feet off the line but at the end of a 1/4 the 377 will be ahead if there both built the same i know ive tried them both and they are more efficent there less friction all the way around especially if u use a longer connecting rod less wear on the engine to any one want to argue cause i know ive done them both and a 400 has a bad connecting rod set up from the get go i dont like the rod and stroke set up and the 350 crank has less drag hopefully this will help any doubters
#76
Melting Slicks
I am going to throw out another little wrinkle into this discussion because of what I am thinking and because I am slowly reaching the end of my budget.
My engine is pretty low mileage, so I am thinking of going the stroker crank route, but not the .030 overbore. So instead of ending up at 383 ci (.030 over) it ends up at 377. I can afford a series 9000 crank, the rods and reuse the pistons (I believe) and rering and bearing and keep within my budget (because I also have to do the transmission).
Have any of you experienced a 377 built this way ? Keeping in mind I am building a spirited cruiser that will never see a track. Just nice rides through the country, hills and mountains that are to the south and east of us.
Part of the problem is that there is only one good shop left in the area that does engine related machine work and they know it. Their prices have inflated accordingly.
My engine is pretty low mileage, so I am thinking of going the stroker crank route, but not the .030 overbore. So instead of ending up at 383 ci (.030 over) it ends up at 377. I can afford a series 9000 crank, the rods and reuse the pistons (I believe) and rering and bearing and keep within my budget (because I also have to do the transmission).
Have any of you experienced a 377 built this way ? Keeping in mind I am building a spirited cruiser that will never see a track. Just nice rides through the country, hills and mountains that are to the south and east of us.
Part of the problem is that there is only one good shop left in the area that does engine related machine work and they know it. Their prices have inflated accordingly.
#77
Melting Slicks
Would it be safe to say that for a modern Street engine build with the accessibility of aftermarket Cylinder Heads, Cranks and Rods and much lighter Forged Pistons has eliminated a lot of the 1970's rules on how not to build one of these engines as far as RPM restrictions and other do nots do's? And after all these years of debate there is no one combination that is clearly better than another. And that every combination above does have some advantage over the rest for a certain application.
#78
Le Mans Master
Would it be safe to say that for a modern Street engine build with the accessibility of aftermarket Cylinder Heads, Cranks and Rods and much lighter Forged Pistons has eliminated a lot of the 1970's rules on how not to build one of these engines as far as RPM restrictions and other do nots do's? And after all these years of debate there is no one combination that is clearly better than another. And that every combination above does have some advantage over the rest for a certain application.
#79
Melting Slicks
The only thing that's really safe to say is that displacement is king. The only reason anyone would even contemplate destroking a 400 block to make a 377 is if there were a set of class rules that limited displacement to 377. Otherwise, if you already have a 400 block, then destroking it is just dumb. You will always make more power with more longevity and more efficiency by going for the most displacement you can squeeze from a block. I've already gone over the reasons why. These days there are plenty of 468 LSs and 480 LTs being put on road courses for sustained high-RPM operation with no troubles. As with any engine, you have to understand the right way to build them, but the valvetrain is more of a concern for high-RPM durability than the rotating mass.
#80
Burning Brakes
Define what you would want to do exactly, and then determine what formula is appropriate.
NASCAR back in the 1980’s used a destroked formula as they were limited to 355. They also used a crank with 400 SBC sized mains, it’s overlap between main journals and rod journals meant a much more stable crankshaft.
Today, you can build a high HP/RPM/PSI monster where it’s common to use the 400 SBC size mains with shorter stroke, and it can be certainly more reliable at a similar displacement compared to a stroker. Lots of ways to skin a cat, and also if you’re tire/torque limited, the destroked larger bore may be a better formula.
I’ve queued up a destroked budget LS project for a similar reason, it will be 8K+ RPM engine for a Porsche 944 Turbo where the transaxle is torque limited. I think in most cases RPM limitations are more expensive than torque limitations, but certainly not on this case.
On the C4 the torque limit is higher, but eventually you could get there without too much trouble, where a destroked version of the power curve is preferred with regard to crank/clutch/trans/DS/Diff/axle combination… although all of those can be built up also.
NASCAR back in the 1980’s used a destroked formula as they were limited to 355. They also used a crank with 400 SBC sized mains, it’s overlap between main journals and rod journals meant a much more stable crankshaft.
Today, you can build a high HP/RPM/PSI monster where it’s common to use the 400 SBC size mains with shorter stroke, and it can be certainly more reliable at a similar displacement compared to a stroker. Lots of ways to skin a cat, and also if you’re tire/torque limited, the destroked larger bore may be a better formula.
I’ve queued up a destroked budget LS project for a similar reason, it will be 8K+ RPM engine for a Porsche 944 Turbo where the transaxle is torque limited. I think in most cases RPM limitations are more expensive than torque limitations, but certainly not on this case.
On the C4 the torque limit is higher, but eventually you could get there without too much trouble, where a destroked version of the power curve is preferred with regard to crank/clutch/trans/DS/Diff/axle combination… although all of those can be built up also.