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I'm finally getting my C4, an 85 with the 4+3. Its still winter here in Wisconsin so I will be towing it home next week. I'm going to put it on a flatbed trailer. My question is: where do I attach the the downs to the car? I'd like for it to be secure on the trailer, but don't want to damage my new car.
I always use the T hook locations whenever I trailer a car. They are the oval holes usually found in the frame rails between the wheels. I would also suggest snugging the car down as tight as possible on the trailer ant let the trailer suspension soak up the bumps.
Thanks. Last thing I towed was an old K5 Blazer years ago that had solid axles on both ends and a full frame. You've got tons of options for tie downs on one of those. Just dont want to damage anything or have the car shift on the trailer.
I'm pretty excited to get it home, in my garage. I'd leave it in storage until the roads are good enough to drive home, but I'd like to get all of the preseason stuff done now. Well, that and I want it in my garage not 1 1/2 hours away.
Best part is that it's just going to have to sit in my garage for 1-2 months until winter actually ends here.
Meanwhile i'll just have to make do getting my dad's '76 ready for him.
Last edited by Mixednuttz; Mar 9, 2019 at 12:32 AM.
Just trying to remember here, but aren't there factory shipping tie-downs up in each recess area near each wheel. It is what were used when the vehicle was shipped from factory to dealer. I don't remember if each is located in front of or behind each wheel, but just crawl under there with a bright flashlight and search around. I'm pretty sure they exist on all C4's
During my NCRS activities, I trailered my 85 about 45,000 miles. Almost as many trailer miles as there are on the odometer.
The factory frame points are in front of the rear wheels, and behind the front wheels. They are not useable on a flatbed trailer because the routing from the tie-point is interrupted by suspension pieces. It is not a "straight shot" to the trailer anchor points.
I use (2) 18" X 2" axle straps around the inboard front lower a-arm. Keep them completely inboard right up near the bushing, and position the chafe-guard on the strap to keep the sheet-metal leaf spring retainer from cutting it.
In the rear, I use a 2" wide ratchet-strap around the far outboard lower strut rod. I have a little 4X6" piece of carpet I put over the strut rod to spread the load, and prevent chafe directly on the aluminum strut rod. I double the tie-down back to itself, with the ratchet on top. With this method, the rear straps must be straight back, you can't "cross" them.
I've also seen C4 peeps use a hook-type strap on the lower shock mounting stud. With the shock studs, you can "X" the rear tie-downs. Personally, I feel the most likely "severe" event will be sudden braking. For braking, the straight-line rear straps are more effective at holding the car than X-straps. Which is why I use straight-line rear straps. If the car is positioned on the trailer correctly, it won't move much side to side, and if it does, the first check of the straps will take up any slack, and you'll be good from there. Once it finds its position on the trailer, it will stay there.
Remember to check the tie-downs for tension after the first 50-100 miles. They will require a click or two, even with well-used tie downs. Mine always does. Then I check them at every other fuel stop (about 1,000 miles) or in the morning before getting underway for the day.
EDIT: One other trick for a C4: Depending on the trailer, you may not be able to open the door over the fender to get out of the car. When setting my enclosed trailer up for the first time, I found that my car's door hit the top of the fender by just a bit. I screwed a piece of 3/4" plywood to the floor of my trailer, positioned under the LR tire. It raises the car just enough to allow the door to open so I can get out and leave the window rolled up. Take a length of 2X6 with you to drive the rear tire on to if you need this.
Biggest thing to safe trailering is keep adequate following distance, and never let your guard down. There are idiots everywhere out there. Safe travels. Enjoy your new car.
I hauled my 86 to autocrosses and track events using those 4 tie down points. I ran the tie front tie downs forward and I had rear tie downs attached to toward the middle of the trailer bed right where the beaver tail turned downward. By criss crossing the tie straps from the two points on the chassis to the locations on the trailer bed I was able to get the car tied down very well. You just need to think out of the box because the tie down locations are further inboard and higher than they are on other cars although they can be reached from alongside the car. You can see them when looking toward the engine through the rear of the front wheel well and slightly forward of the diff when looking through the front of the rear wheel well.
Do you have a trailer or are you renting a U-Haul? The U-Haul has front tire tie downs and that might do the trick for the few miles you are traveling if the roads are smooth.
I use the lasso straps, no crawling around on your belly and back trying to tie a car down. Prices start around 45 bucks for 4 depending on the hook set up. The bonnets/nets are easy too but they require two tie down locations for each wheel usually on an E track.
Just trying to remember here, but aren't there factory shipping tie-downs up in each recess area near each wheel. It is what were used when the vehicle was shipped from factory to dealer. I don't remember if each is located in front of or behind each wheel, but just crawl under there with a bright flashlight and search around. I'm pretty sure they exist on all C4's
Front tie downs are at the rear of the front wheel well on the frame, about the same relation as the rears to the wheel.
Got it home, safely. With the input I got here, I decided against the flat bed and just rented a car transport from UHaul. Worked great, no clearance issues getting it up the ramps either.
Thanks to all that weighed in.
Got it home, safely. With the input I got here, I decided against the flat bed and just rented a car transport from UHaul. Worked great, no clearance issues getting it up the ramps either.
Thanks to all that weighed in.
Tie down locations?
