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I bought a new steering wheel to replace the old. Went thru the steps outlined in the service manual to remove the current wheel. Couldn't pull it off, so I rented a puller from Autozone. I don't know where I messed up, but instead of taking off the wheel, it ruined the center thread. Cracked it. Now I still can't get the wheel off and can't put it back together due to the damage. What now?
I think what you damaged is the upper shaft of the steering column telescopic mechanism. you should have removed a metal rod - can't remember the exact dimension, but it's about .25 X 6 inches long. since that rod is removed, the damaged part should pull straight out. be careful pulling it - there is a locking wedge or keyway that secures the shaft to the upper yoke. note the orientation for re-assembly - the rod pushes that wedge and secures the upper shaft to the lower yoke. that might be a costly F-U - those used parts aren't cheap. good luck -
since you still need to get the wheel off, you need, and should have used, some sort of bearing surface for the center of the shaft to push against and not depend on the threaded cavity of the shaft. try a slightly smaller bolt (and maybe w/ a washer) - something that fits without threading into the shaft itself. trying to jog my memory, but i'm thinking I removed the steering wheel nut (and lock ring) and re-installed the "star shaped" locking adjuster and threaded in a 5/16x18 bolt into the locking adjuster as a bearing surface. really don't remember... again, good luck -
Hit the rim of the whhel with some force. Top, bottom, left, right. Keep at it, and it will work itself free. It helps to leave the center bolt on, but loosened.
You don't need to go very deep to pull the wheel, I think I used a large bolt in the center of my wheel puller when replacing the wheel in my 35th Anni.
Were you following the instructions for the steering wheel puller? You aren't stuck. You'll notice in Joe C's picture that the threaded section that's cracked is smaller that the splined section. The steering wheel only fits on the splined section. Your wheel should still pull off of the splined section, even though the threaded section is cracked. Can you get a nut onto the shaft to strengthen the cracked section? The top of the nut should be flush with the top of the shaft before you install the puller. That was your mistake..
It helps to lock the telescoping section in place during this removal process. It is NOT necessary to remove the center "push rod". Use a 5/16 UNC setscrew, or a cut-off bolt with a slot, like this photo, to lock the tele function of the shaft. (The upper tool is for removing the pivot pins.)
Were you following the instructions for the steering wheel puller? You aren't stuck. You'll notice in Joe C's picture that the threaded section that's cracked is smaller that the splined section. The steering wheel only fits on the splined section. Your wheel should still pull off of the splined section, even though the threaded section is cracked. Can you get a nut onto the shaft to strengthen the cracked section? The top of the nut should be flush with the top of the shaft before you install the puller. That was your mistake..
It helps to lock the telescoping section in place during this removal process. It is NOT necessary to remove the center "push rod". Use a 5/16 UNC setscrew, or a cut-off bolt with a slot, like this photo, to lock the tele function of the shaft. (The upper tool is for removing the pivot pins.)
I have a shaft like yours. Send me a PM.
wow! we're on opposite ends of the country, and I have damn near the same bunch of hardware in a zip-lock bag and stored with my steering wheel puller kit. I would say great minds think alike, but i'm fairly sure I've lost my mind, so it's probably just a coincidence - anyway, still trying to get a grasp on the OP's dilemma. pulling the wheel is something I don't do very often, but in this case, since the locking-push rod is removed, wouldn't the steering wheel and the upper shaft of the steering column telescopic mechanism, pull out together. the only thing I can figure, is the locking wedge is somehow frozen in the secured position locking the shaft to the yoke. maybe as FAUEE stated, bang on the steering wheel while pulling it back. can's see any reason the wheel and shaft wouldn't come out together. correct me if i'm wrong, but with the rod removed, wouldn't the telescoping stop feature be disabled, thereby allowing the wheel and shaft to come out as an assembly - ??? maybe the OP could re-install the push rod and "gently" tap on it with a hammer and free up the wedge. having a tough time visualizing everything here.
since the locking-push rod is removed, wouldn't the steering wheel and the upper shaft of the steering column telescopic mechanism, pull out together?
You can't remove the locking push-rod at this time, because it's not accessible. It's down inside the center hole of the tele tube. The tele tube is locked into the column by a big "C" ring that is just above the lock plate.
with the rod removed, wouldn't the telescoping stop feature be disabled, thereby allowing the wheel and shaft to come out as an assembly?
No. That 5/16 UNC setscrew needs to be installed in the center hole to disable the tele feature. The shaft can't be removed until the "C" ring and the lock plate are removed, which are UNDER the steering wheel. That plastic insulator (shown here) over that "C" ring is very fragile! Compressing the spring under the lock plate requires a special tool. You must install the set screw before removing the "C" ring! See pg. 3B5-2 of your FSM
Rebuilding the steering column makes the heater core job look easy!
You can't remove the locking push-rod at this time, because it's not accessible. It's down inside the center hole of the tele tube. The tele tube is locked into the column by a big "C" ring that is just above the lock plate.
No. That 5/16 UNC setscrew needs to be installed in the center hole to disable the tele feature. The shaft can't be removed until the "C" ring and the lock plate are removed, which are UNDER the steering wheel. That plastic insulator (shown here) over that "C" ring is very fragile! Compressing the spring under the lock plate requires a special tool. You must install the set screw before removing the "C" ring! See pg. 3B5-2 of your FSM
Rebuilding the steering column makes the heater core job look easy!
trying to jog my memory. last summer I had to replace the key lock cylinder in my 85.
don't remember the exact details, but somehow I got the push rod and shaft out - ??? memory ain't what it used to be....
don't remember the exact details, but somehow I got the push rod and shaft out?
I think CR can confirm that the steering wheel can now easily move up and down to its stops, since the tele locking lever is not installed in the end of the center shaft. The "UP stop" is the "C" ring under that insulator. If you somehow remove the push rod, that 5/16 set screw you say you have in your steering wheel tool kit would be useless. That set screw is required to lock the tele feature, which allows you to remove that "C" ring, and can only work if the push rod is in place.
CR, please don't use a hammer on your column. That'll just make thing worse!
I think CR can confirm that the steering wheel can now easily move up and down to its stops, since the tele locking lever is not installed in the end of the center shaft. The "UP stop" is the "C" ring under that insulator. If you somehow remove the push rod, that 5/16 set screw you say you have in your steering wheel tool kit would be useless. That set screw is required to lock the tele feature, which allows you to remove that "C" ring, and can only work if the push rod is in place.
true - starting to come back to me. I remember having to re-install the push rod and locking the tele-mechanism with the 5/16 bolt in order to use, not the wheel puller, but the lock plate depressor tool that compresses the spring in order to remove the "C" clip or ring under the insulator. actually, there were no issues removing the steering wheel itself. somehow, I managed to remove the push rod during this fiasco (???), and yes, the shaft would only come out to the full "UP" or "FULL OUT" position. once the "C" clip is removed, then i'm thinking, the shaft itself will come out. I do remember having to orient the locking wedge for re-assembly. side note for anyone getting deep into any column repair - my original horn insulator was pretty brittle from age and it came out in pieces. I bought a repro horn insulator from one of the major vendors (seems to me it was corvette central) - form, fit, and function was spot on. got it thru fleabay - around $13 shipped (actually, the repro part seemed to be better quality than my OEM part).
so, back to the OP's dilemma - sounds like he will have to, first, get the steering wheel off, then get in there and depress the spring to remove the locking "C" clip in order to remove the damaged shaft. he might have issues there since the shaft is cracked and maybe or maybe not, the threads are damaged enough to screw something into the shaft to lock the tele-feature in the full "DOWN" position in order to use the depressor tool. just mentally trying to think this through - . anyway, to the OP, again, good luck -
https://corvetteparts.com/item/retai...989[/QUOTE] that would be it. time takes it's toll on the plastic - mine was very brittle. if you don't break it coming out, you'll break it going back in. anyone getting into any kind of the steering column repair, might as well figure on replacing it -
Thanks all for the comments. My grandfather, who is mechanically inclined, is going to help me work on removing and replacing the wheel tomorrow. Going to reference the pics and comments here along the way. Hoping I can at least get it all back together. Was hoping to sell this car soon for a better one.
Well after much ado we were able to get the steering wheel off. We used a dremel and a file to get the grooves back in working order. We did break the retainer piece mentioned so I have a new one on the way. Hoping reassembly is nowhere near as bad as disassembly.
I would do the horn wire, the tower and likely a canceling cam also if I were going into an early T & T column. That pretty much covers the plastics. I've a friend who would probably do also the left & right turn springs. He does those in every column he services.
03-18-2019, 05:56 PM
Messed Up Steering Wheel Removal
anyway, still trying to get a grasp on the OP's dilemma. pulling the wheel is something I don't do very often, but in this case, since the locking-push rod is removed, wouldn't the steering wheel and the upper shaft of the steering column telescopic mechanism, pull out together. the only thing I can figure, is the locking wedge is somehow frozen in the secured position locking the shaft to the yoke. maybe as FAUEE stated, bang on the steering wheel while pulling it back. can's see any reason the wheel and shaft wouldn't come out together. correct me if i'm wrong, but with the rod removed, wouldn't the telescoping stop feature be disabled, thereby allowing the wheel and shaft to come out as an assembly - ??? maybe the OP could re-install the push rod and "gently" tap on it with a hammer and free up the wedge. having a tough time visualizing everything here. 
. anyway, to the OP, again, good luck - 
