Detailing tips anyone?
Then drive it like you stole it...
Technique and detail of your work matters more than products. Meguiars is a solid choice for pretty much everything and can be bought basically anywhere. Walmart actually often has some pretty good products.




1) Wash car using a liberal amount of Dawn dishwashing liquid rather than car wash shampoo in prep for polishing. The Dawn will remove all of the wax and any other grease on the surface along with the dirt.
2) Use a claybar on the paint. I've used both Griots and Mother's with very good results. I use Griots speedshine as the lubricant when I claybar. This is an important step because this pulls out little pieces of grit that get stuck in the surface of the clearcoat.
3) Use a random orbital polisher and foam pads to polish out all of the surface imperfections. All the name brand products have "polishes" in different levels of "coarseness". You use the coarsest one first to remove the scratches and then the finer and finer ones to remove the fine swirls created by the harsh one. Remember that what you are essentially doing is polishing away a very thin layer of the clear coat to the point where all of the scratches & swirls have been polished out. This is a step that you can spend 4 hours or 40 hours doing depends on your level of OCD LOL. A black car IS going to take more work than my green one and this is the step where that work is done.
4) Use a good quality wax to protect the paint now that it has been shined.
Last edited by Mr. Peabody; Apr 16, 2019 at 11:04 PM.
1) Wash car using a liberal amount of Dawn dishwashing liquid rather than car wash shampoo in prep for polishing. The Dawn will remove all of the wax and any other grease on the surface along with the dirt.
2) Use a claybar on the paint. I've used both Griots and Mother's with very good results. I use Griots speedshine as the lubricant when I claybar. This is an important step because this pulls out little pieces of grit that get stuck in the surface of the clearcoat.
3) Use a random orbital polisher and foam pads to polish out all of the surface imperfections. All the name brand products have "polishes" in different levels of "coarseness". You use the coarsest one first to remove the scratches and then the finer and finer ones to remove the fine swirls created by the harsh one. Remember that what you are essentially doing is polishing away a very thin layer of the clear coat to the point where all of the scratches & swirls have been polished out. This is a step that you can spend 4 hours or 40 hours doing depends on your level of OCD LOL. A black car IS going to take more work than my green one and this is the step where that work is done.
4) Use a good quality wax to protect the paint now that it has been shined.
Thanks for the advice, beautiful Vette. Also, haven;t seen a UJM with a windjammer in a while. That makes me smile





1) Wash car using a liberal amount of Dawn dishwashing liquid rather than car wash shampoo in prep for polishing. The Dawn will remove all of the wax and any other grease on the surface along with the dirt.
2) Use a claybar on the paint. I've used both Griots and Mother's with very good results. I use Griots speedshine as the lubricant when I claybar. This is an important step because this pulls out little pieces of grit that get stuck in the surface of the clearcoat.
3) Use a random orbital polisher and foam pads to polish out all of the surface imperfections. All the name brand products have "polishes" in different levels of "coarseness". You use the coarsest one first to remove the scratches and then the finer and finer ones to remove the fine swirls created by the harsh one. Remember that what you are essentially doing is polishing away a very thin layer of the clear coat to the point where all of the scratches & swirls have been polished out. This is a step that you can spend 4 hours or 40 hours doing depends on your level of OCD LOL. A black car IS going to take more work than my green one and this is the step where that work is done.
4) Use a good quality wax to protect the paint now that it has been shined.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
https://adamspolishes.com/video
Of course he's trying to sell his products but there is still useful information to be had.
Autogeek has some really good videos as well.
I was always told that if your going to pay someone to detail your car, ask to see a black one they have done. If they can do a black car swirl free they know what the're doing.
On my 2000 convertible I got some white spots all over the car while driving. When I tried to wash them off the windshield nothing happened. Water, enamel thinner and lacquer thinner had no effect. I finally scraped it off the windshield with a razor blade. Then it was on to the hood. The white stuff came off with a wet cloth. I had used Rejex on the paint but not the windshield. The next time the glass gets it too.
Rejex can only be bought online. It is great stuff.





At the age, I'm certain you will need a DA polisher and possibly a Meguiars microfiber pad set to start. You should do test sections to see what pad is needed to get the deepest/worst swirls out, then do the whole car. You will want to do this at the higher DA speed settings, 4-5. Change pads often, compound clogs it up. I use Jescar Compound but Meguiars has a polishing compound that you can find at Autozone, M105 I think?
If not the MF pad, then probably a Lake County Orange pad for the first pass to remove swirls with the compound. The first pass might introduce micro-marring (MF pad likely will, Orange LC may not) that you will remove with a 2nd pass with an orange or white LC pad and Jescar Finishing Polish. Then the paint should be pretty good for a DIY.
After that you can use a final polishing pad to apply wax at a low speed setting, or a spray on sealant, or a ceramic coating.
I clayed the car last night after a ball game timm almost 11 pm. I plan on spending the holiday weekend correcting the paint and waxing. Wish me luck











