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When I Shut my car off, when all the lights are off and the doors closed, something runs my battery down. The battery is brand new. The only thing running is the security system. Any ideas???????
When looking for a drain I put an ammeter inline and then pull fuses one-by-one.
I then find when the drain drops to give me the circuit to look into.
You didn't say what car you have, but I would ask another to help by looking at the meter while you are inside with the doors closed. Also disconnect the hood lights if you have them.
Welcome to the Forum! Is this a new car for you? What year Corvette do you have? Are you sure all lights are off . . . visor vanity . . .under hood . . . console "glove" box?
Short term disconnect the negative lead and put an voltmeter set on amps in between negative lead and negative battery post...car with doors shut and lights off shouldn't pull more the .003 (30mA) of power.
In the meantime disconnect your battery when not driving! A short is pulling current and current generates heat, in the wrong place this can cause a fire!
Short term disconnect the negative lead and put an voltmeter set on amps in between negative lead and negative battery post...car with doors shut and lights off shouldn't pull more the .003 (30mA) of power.
First, let's get our facts straight. The residual current drain shouldn't exceed about 30 mA is correct, but that's 0.03 A, not 0.003 A. 0.003 A would be 3 mA.
Next, that HF fuse tester can't measure less than 0.100 A ( 100 mA ), so it's useless for the residual current drain test. If you truely have a "short circuit", you'll probably draw more than 30 A, and therefore blow the fuse in the tester. So that's no different than blowing the fuse in your car, and you haven't learned anything.
First, let's get our facts straight. The residual current drain shouldn't exceed about 30 mA is correct, but that's 0.03 A, not 0.003 A. 0.003 A would be 3 mA.
Next, that HF fuse tester can't measure less than 0.100 A ( 100 mA ), so it's useless for the residual current drain test. If you truely have a "short circuit", you'll probably draw more than 30 A, and therefore blow the fuse in the tester. So that's no different than blowing the fuse in your car, and you haven't learned anything.
...with a minor exception: after determining a parasitic draw above 100mA, which isn't that unusual for a problem draining the battery e.g., over nite, the HF meter is useful in isolating the problem circuit. (I have that HE meter, and I found in the majority of cases a true problem parasitic drain will register on my HF gadgit.
Last edited by Paul Workman; Jul 19, 2019 at 07:28 PM.
...with a minor exception: after determining a parasitic draw above 100mA, which isn't that unusual for a problem draining the battery e.g., over nite, the HF meter is useful in isolating the problem circuit. (I have that HE meter, and I found in the majority of cases a true problem parasitic drain will register on my HF gadgit.
Yeah brain cramp on the mA numbers (that's what I get for not having my 1st cup of coffee before posting), but I agree a short will be well over 100mA based on how fast the OP's battery is draining. I had a short in my ETBCM of 2A that was draining my battery within a day or 2. The trick is to narrow the circuit down then begin the troubleshooting work.