replacing injectors 85' coupe
Also didn't know that that fuel rail pressure and return fittings wouldn't line up. Biggest headache I only could spend two hours here and there while it sat in the driveway. A good mechanic told me $300-400 plus parts I should've let him do it because in the end the time, aggravation and extra tools bought easily would've justified having him do it.
Yes there is some satisfaction to doing it yourself and your buddies say OMG you did that!
Best of luck.
down for repairs isn't a problem. But recently because of health issues I've had to have the work done. I'm hoping that will change soon.
Last edited by ls777z; Jul 27, 2019 at 12:54 PM.
Also didn't know that that fuel rail pressure and return fittings wouldn't line up. Biggest headache I only could spend two hours here and there while it sat in the driveway. A good mechanic told me $300-400 plus parts I should've let him do it because in the end the time, aggravation and extra tools bought easily would've justified having him do it.
Yes there is some satisfaction to doing it yourself and your buddies say OMG you did that!
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
just cant seem to locate the area ? Totally baffled anyone help?
it very well may not be fuel related, but maybe ignition - maybe air or vacuum. once you've sorted through everything fuel, move on - check everything related to spark - cap and rotor, plug wires (BTW, how is all that stuff?). plugs? what's your timing set at? one other thing I might add - if original, all your vacuum lines or tubing are 35 years old. they may look perfectly good, but it doesn't take much for a leak - thus, choppy idle. a few years ago, I replaced all my vacuum and emission systems rubber hoses on my 85 with new - made a noticeable difference in idle quality. speaking of vacuum, has any of those "good mechanics" thrown a vacuum gauge on the thing? vacuum readings can tell you much about the engine's health and the engine's internals. gauges and readings are "old school" basic. it very well could be you have a weak cylinder - a bad valve seat, valve guide, etc.. a couple other areas to look at - a slightly clogged cat, and the O2 sensor. I consider the O2 sensor as a maintenance item - if it's over 5 years old, i'd replace it.
personally, if fuel pressure readings are spot-on, start looking at outside the fuel system. trying to diagnose this on-line is somewhat difficult - much is second guessing. so, go in baby steps, and be **** with everything you do. no short cuts - no helter-skelter maintenance where you're all over the place. be systematic and don't throw parts at the thing without preforming basic diagnostics. do you have a FSM? if not, get one! good luck....
Last edited by Joe C; Aug 1, 2019 at 05:50 AM.
FI coils were within spec before removing at 16.7 ohms
two spark plugs were almost totally clean cylinders 2 & 4 since the injector swap these plugs now have same coloration has rest
yes noid light showed injectors were pulsing
I have not put a Vaccuum gauge on it
I'm going to pull all plugs now and see if anything not correct
car runs a lot better but still has a noticeable miss cold or hot, idle or full throttle
plugs, cap, rotor and coil changed
AC Delco 8mm wire changed
new fuel filter
the PO had some ungodly large after market Throttle Body on it. I got used one from 85 Corvette and new air snorkel. It came with TPS installed. I will also test the voltage with key on at TPS tonight.
From my motorcycle racing days I have a digital thermometer I'll start car let her warm up and then take exhaust temp readings on each cylinder and see if
I see any difference on any cylinder.
Would an OBD II scan tool with OBD I connector help ?
Do you know if an oscilloscope can be used to pinpoint the trouble?
Thanks for taking the time to help.
I have FSM, Chiltons and Haynes manuals
Last edited by wardie; Aug 1, 2019 at 10:16 AM.

How did you raise the fuel pressure



















