Engine cleaning





I'm ALL about fast/effective/results. I'm totally against hours/"elbow grease", time and a potpourri of solvents. I've got better things to do.
Therefore, I use a power washer and Eagle 1 Etching aluminum cleaner (Alumabrite), which is an chemical that dissolves a microscopic layer of aluminum leaving "fresh cast"/original/new look that is impossible to beat. The product does this on cat aluminum in about 1 minutes. Spray on, wait ~1 minute, power wash off, hitting everything else under the hood at the same time. Towel dry the engine to avoid spotting and you have a "new/old stock" looking engine in minutes.
The electrical components are capable of being hit by a deluge of water; they all o-ring sealed. Only the opti spark is somewhat susceptible to water so LT1 owners should be cognizant of that and maybe avoid direct dousing of the LT1 distributor. The rest of the stuff? It don't care. Spray it w/aluminum chemical, wait a minute, power wash, dry. Enjoy your show-car ready looks.

How good does my method work? Look for yourself IN THIS THREAD, where I just cleaned up an old, garbage throttle body. Spray it on...rinse it off...done.
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Last edited by Tom400CFI; Sep 10, 2019 at 12:45 PM.
If it could get under the paint, then it would dissolve the aluminum that the paint is adhered to...paint would flake off. I've not had a problem with that in the 10+ years that I've used the stuff.
1) Open hood (this is very important - helps make the engine cleaning much easier)
2) Spray Simple Green (in a spray bottle) all over the engine (avoiding your alternator and electrical contact areas)
3) Let it sit for a few minutes to really breakdown the grease / dirt (but dont let it dry)
4) With a soft brush agitate the Simple Green you just sprayed
5) Rinse engine bay with hose set to MIST...VERY IMPORTANT DO NOT DRENCH YOUR ENGINE BAY - Make sure you cover your alternator and avoid the OptiSpark
6) Rinse that same brush well to remove all the dirt
7) Now take your car wash liquid and with that brush wet, add a drop of car wash right onto the brush
8) Use the brush and agitate all the surface areas you can, making sure you create a good about of suds - this will pick up and remove more dirt
9) Now you can remove the suds two ways - I usually get a big towel and just dry all the sudsy sections - but you can use a hose on MIST again if you want
10) Now go dry off the major areas that are wet of water has formed puddles. I prefer to use a leaf blower to get everything nice and dry
11) Now go start your engine and let it get warm - this will help evaporate any remaining water the towel or blower couldnt reach
12) Now grab a microfiber towel and MeGuiars PROTECTANT and spray it into the towel and rub it all over the black parts of the engine (plastic, rubber, etc). Do not use on exposed/shiny metal surfaces.
I know its a lot of work - but my Vettes were all show winners and these are the results:
My 88 35th Anniversary Edition (L98):
My 94 (LT1): (sorry not a close up)
My 02 (LS1):
My 05 (LS2):
My 14 (LT1):
1) Open hood (this is very important - helps make the engine cleaning much easier)
2) Spray Simple Green (in a spray bottle) all over the engine (avoiding your alternator and electrical contact areas)
3) Let it sit for a few minutes to really breakdown the grease / dirt (but dont let it dry)
4) With a soft brush agitate the Simple Green you just sprayed
5) Rinse engine bay with hose set to MIST...VERY IMPORTANT DO NOT DRENCH YOUR ENGINE BAY - Make sure you cover your alternator and avoid the OptiSpark
6) Rinse that same brush well to remove all the dirt
7) Now take your car wash liquid and with that brush wet, add a drop of car wash right onto the brush
8) Use the brush and agitate all the surface areas you can, making sure you create a good about of suds - this will pick up and remove more dirt
9) Now you can remove the suds two ways - I usually get a big towel and just dry all the sudsy sections - but you can use a hose on MIST again if you want
10) Now go dry off the major areas that are wet of water has formed puddles. I prefer to use a leaf blower to get everything nice and dry
11) Now go start your engine and let it get warm - this will help evaporate any remaining water the towel or blower couldnt reach
12) Now grab a microfiber towel and MeGuiars PROTECTANT and spray it into the towel and rub it all over the black parts of the engine (plastic, rubber, etc). Do not use on exposed/shiny metal surfaces.
I know its a lot of work
Your cars are beautiful
My alternator still works!
Last edited by Tom400CFI; Sep 10, 2019 at 03:34 PM.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
BTW - I like your junk yard dog - wish you lived closer to me - Id go cruising with ya anytime!!
Thanks again
Maybe an old opti with dried out and shrunken seals but any opti cap worth it's salt is sealed to keep water out. I'm sure GM did enough R&D in regards to the opti and water for it to go into production. I personally have swamped the opti (unintentionally) on my Caprice with 0 negative effects.





Soap it up with the pressure wand, use your own MF towels or mitt, rinse with the pressure washer.
But depending on your goals... I try to protect things that need protection from water, and just go to town with everything else. I usually let the car sit out in the sun with the hood up for a few hours, and then check everything, put it all back together (whatever I disconnected or bagged), and then just start it.
Honestly... these cars are much more resilient than we give them credit for.
With the exception of people who have OptiSpark, you can practically submerge your entire engine in water so long as the intake and exhaust aren't blocked.
My daughter tore it down completely and we went through probably 20 cans of brake cleaner and another 6 cans of heavy duty engine degreaser. We repainted EVERYTHING.












