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Drivers side (left) Passenger side. (right)
I deleted the A/C on my 1992 coupe a few years back. It's also has a 160° thermostat. I live on the coast in Northern California so the summer weather doesn't get crazy hot. You can feel the power increase. Makes working on the front of the engine super easy. My only issue is when I'm in stop and go traffic. The temperature gets high and BOTH cooling fans come on at 185° and the "service engine soon" indicator light also comes on. Of course the temperature comes down. The only way to get the fans to shut down is to stop and restart the engine. The "service engine soon" indicator light also goes out. My question is. Where can I install a toggle switch to reset or turn the fans off while driving?
I'm in the same boat as you on this one with my 1996. PO put in a 160* Thermostat and the same thing happens (fans on high at 185 and SES light)
Also, OP, did your A/C delete come in a kit, or did you diy it? And is it a relatively simple task? (1-3 hours) My A/C has a leak and currently is fully discharged, so I am thinking of doing a delete myself.
I was thinking of deleting my A/C when it starts to have trouble or dies. This thread is very interesting to me. Is there a way to do this delete properly and not have fan issues or the SES light coming on? Is it even worth deleting the A/C for extra performance, other than dropping some weight? Do tell knowledgeable ones...
Last edited by RetroGuy; Jan 26, 2020 at 10:57 PM.
So, you shouldn't be able to feel any difference in power, because there isn't any. The AC compressor has a clutch, so when not in use, the pulley spins freely, just as freely as the delete pulley would spin. If you were to completely remove it, and run a shorter belt, that would maybe free up a single horsepower or so.
It's far better to have a non working ac in place than one that's been removed. At least the non working ac can be fixed.
So, you shouldn't be able to feel any difference in power, because there isn't any. The AC compressor has a clutch, so when not in use, the pulley spins freely, just as freely as the delete pulley would spin. If you were to completely remove it, and run a shorter belt, that would maybe free up a single horsepower or so.
It's far better to have a non working ac in place than one that's been removed. At least the non working ac can be fixed.
How is AC control set? No compressor doesn't translate to ECM knowing it's missing when control is in AC or auto modes.. Stock prom? Hyper tech prom turns on fans early, gets annoying on hot days.
How is AC control set? No compressor doesn't translate to ECM knowing it's missing when control is in AC or auto modes.. Stock prom? Hyper tech prom turns on fans early, gets annoying on hot days.
On a slightly different note. Has anyone found a non a/c heater blower motor housing that can be easily modified to fit c4?
Negative on that. I did remove the evap and blower box, cut plates to block the openings and then used bilge blower fittings and duct from a boat to connect the two sides. I retained the heater core and can vent heat in the cabin on cold nights. I bought a bilge blower so I can blow heat but haven't installed it yet. All the parts weigh about 4lbs instead of 12 and it gave me ample room for headers and spark plug changes. My car is LS swapped and removing all the a/c stuff (condenser, lines, brackets, bolts, belt, compressor, evap box) netted me about 45lbs of weight reduction.
Last edited by Krusty84; Jan 30, 2020 at 08:13 AM.