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Stutter during acceleration

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Old Feb 16, 2020 | 05:15 PM
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Default Stutter during acceleration

I've had my '95 for 8 months now and it has always run like a top. The last three times I took it out, it stutters while accelerating, as if there are random misfires. Once it comes up to operating temp, all seems fine. The only coincident thing is it sat for a while and the battery was down. Almost didn't start. That was the first time is noticed it. Then the next two times i started it cold, the stutter returned. No check engine light. Any ideas? Would there be an error code if the SES light is not on?
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Nick
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Old Feb 16, 2020 | 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Nick Bernier
Once it comes up to operating temp, all seems fine.
Check your coolant sensor as it may be faulty. If the sensor is faulty, the signal will tell the ECM that your engine is at operating temperature even though it is cold. A cold engine requires more fuel (rich condition) temporarily until your engine heats up. The fact that once warm your car runs fine tells me you need to check.
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Old Feb 16, 2020 | 06:29 PM
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Thanks Bill. Is that the same sensor that drives the temp gauge? I did not notice if read high on a cold start, but will check later tonight. I looked in the Service Manual and don't see anything under coolant or temperature. Where is the sensor?

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Nick
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Old Feb 16, 2020 | 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Nick Bernier
Thanks Bill. Is that the same sensor that drives the temp gauge?....Where is the sensor?
The coolant sensor is in the water pump and is not connected to the dash gauges. If memory serves (I have never had an LT1) the dash gauge sensor is in the block between plugs 6-8.

BTW... your gauge cluster is notorious for being inaccurate.
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Old Feb 16, 2020 | 10:06 PM
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I did find the sensor between 6 and 8. The dash gauge is operating (somewhat) properly. It looks like there are two sensors in the water pump. I found one in the service manual, 6B-24, left side of pump. Just points it out as "coolant sensor". I can't find a reference for whatever the other one is on the right side of the pump. Anyone shed some light??

Thanks,
Nick
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Old Feb 17, 2020 | 07:53 AM
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Before diving into the coolant sensor, I'd want to have a look at the plugs for clues and/or replace them while your at it - eliminating that possibility. And, simply having it scanned may provide some clues (but disconnect the battery for 30 seconds to clear any old codes). And, if it happens mostly under load and not at idle, aside from low voltage, the coil is to be considered.

Last edited by Paul Workman; Feb 17, 2020 at 07:55 AM.
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Old Feb 17, 2020 | 06:37 PM
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Thanks Paul. Will check it out. How would the coil know that it is under load? I could see it failing at higher rpm??

Nick
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Old Feb 22, 2020 | 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by billschroeder5842
The coolant sensor is in the water pump and is not connected to the dash gauges. If memory serves (I have never had an LT1) the dash gauge sensor is in the block between plugs 6-8.

BTW... your gauge cluster is notorious for being inaccurate.
Just wanted to post an update. Bill, you are correct that the analog gauge runs from the sensor in the right head. I disconnected the water pump sensor and connected it to a new sensor that I just wire-tied to the upper radiator hose as a test. Not sure if everyone knows this, but the "digital" temp readout gets its info from this sensor. Anyway, I test drove the car like this and it seemed to run fine. I plugged the connector back into the water pump sensor and it read correctly. The next morning, the digital gauge read 61 degrees. Test drive was good. No more stutter. Not sure if the connector was dirty and that fixed it, or it was something totally different. But, for now, problem solved, I think. Thanks to all.
Nick

New sensor zip-tied

Digital temp readout from new gauge. Note analog gauge temp

Original sensor re-connected; matches analog gauge
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Old Feb 22, 2020 | 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Nick Bernier
Thanks Paul. Will check it out. How would the coil know that it is under load? I could see it failing at higher rpm??

Nick
It's a fact that as cylinder pressure increases, the voltage required to jump the spark gap increased - hence the additional load (voltage can be thought of as "pressure"). So, it is common for a coil with failing insulation within the coil windings to arc and short out under acceleration first, and then as detioration increases, the coil fails at less and less voltage.

A "noid light" can be used to detect ignition (spark) issues. And, if the input to the coil can be verified to be within acceptable operation parameters, then swapping out the coil to see if the ignition issue has been resolved would be a logical step.

Don't know if this is going to help. Hard to troubleshoot w/o being there. Good luck.

P.
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Old Feb 23, 2020 | 07:56 AM
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If you find that it's not a shudder caused by an ignition or fuel system issue and the car has an auto trans, you may be experiencing torque converter shudder. This requires replacement of the torque converter. This is something to consider if you are not experiencing a misfire or if you find that the fuel delivery system is in proper working order.
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Old Mar 6, 2020 | 04:37 PM
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Just a final update on this problem. It appeared to be resolved, but came back. It began stuttering at all temps, then would run fine for a while. Took it into my mechanic and took him for a test ride. He suspected plug wires. Replaced the wires and plugs. Problem gone!! Thanks Paul, Bill, and mazdaverx7 for your input. I think Bill was closest!!
Thanks,
Nick
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