I have a 1995 and when I’m driving 65mph or faster my steering wheel shakes. Please help what could this be ?

 

Tire balance / tire worn, suspension problems, driveline issue in that order . Also could be bent wheel if you just bought it and don't know the history.

 

Get wheels checked for balance first..
Let us know after that.

 

It could even be a bad tire. I chased a shake/vibration through multiple shops balancing rebalancing until a random lag bolt induced me to have the tire warrantied out on the road hazard.

Depending on your tire sizes you could 1 at a time move a front tire to the back and see if the shake goes away moves. I can do this with my car as it came from the factory with the same size tires on all four corners.

I do not know the implications of moving a tire on the cars that came with different sizes in the front -vs- the back.

 

You can swap them. It will just look stupid, fat 285s up front and skinn 255s rear. Its just a simple test, might work.

 

My 1985 had the same issue when I first got it back on the road after the previous owner let it sit for 15 years. At or above 60mph the car vibrated so bad I thought my fillings were going to fall out. Balancing the wheels fixed it 100%. Now it's parked while I wait for new tires. OId tires are dangerous!!!!

 

I vote tires too. My car would shake violently between 55-65 MPH. It was fine below 55 and fine above 65. Turns out my front tires were both shot. Once I replaced them the car drove smooth at any speed.

 

Tires are definitely the white elephant in the room They may look fine on the outside, but after so many years, they arent safe.

 

Roof on or off? Some of these cars have a death-wobble with the roof off over less than perfect roads.

 

Owned many C4s that the steering wheel shook and shaked especially the two convertibles I owned just horrible . Totally cured that problem with a C5 it has a frame.

 

I took my 95-C4 to the Tire shop last spring for a new set of tires.
The Tire shop said that "none" of my stock Saw-blade Rims were Round.
And they could not really balance the rims since there were not round.

My steering wheel does shake a bit at highway speeds, but not that bad.

(front) 255/45R17, Continental Extreme Contact, summer tires
(rear) 285/40R17, Continental Extreme Contact, summer tires

 

You have to really make sure that they aren't full of well, you know. I had a shop tell me one of my rims was not round. I took it home, put it back on the front, put a dial indicator on it (a cheap 1" travel dial and magnetic base from Harbor Freight stuck to a piece of steel so it doesn't move) and spun the tire around. It was round. They were not getting the rim to sit correctly on their machine for some reason, but indexed off the wheel studs, it ran true to the bearings.

Never believe anyone.

 

Amen drcook!

Tire shops are notorious for that. They are there for (1) reason. To sell you something new!

 

I had experienced a similar problem.
At 60-65MPH the car would start really shaking, usually on a slight curve where I would get on the freeway- thought it was the front suspension. Going straight didn't induce the shaking.
The shop inspected the front bushings and they were OK. Then inspected the rear bushings- they were worn.
All the rear bushings were replaced- that did the trick.

 

I had replaced tires, shocks, rack, brakes, rotors, and bushings on my '90 when I first bought it just as routine maintenance and had vibration at around 70mph after giving it a good first highway drive. It turned out that all 4 of the rims were either in and out. One was pretty bad. I ended up taking them to a place that specializes in straightening them. Think it cost around $400 and they even fixed some minor curb rash.

The car drives very smooth now.

 

What drcook said is true. I worked for a tire dealer in the 80's doing everything from mounting , balancing, suspension, brakes, and alignments. Some balancers use a cone through the front hole in the wheel. This is not the best way for many of the old factory style steel mag wheels like the Pontiac Rally II's and so on. We sometimes used a spring and proper sized cone on the balancer shaft first going through the back of the wheel. Some we used a special adapter that secured the wheel to the balancer using the lug holes. We could adjust for whatever the wheel bolt pattern was and lock it. The Corvette uses 5 on 4.75 bolt spacing. This while more time consuming would usually resolve any issues with wheel to balancer problems.

It's a real art to proper mounting and balancing of tires. I take my vehicles to only one shop. They really know what they are doing and I have never experienced any issues with vibrations. You also need to visually inspect your tires by sight and feel. Turn your front tires to the left or right . This will make it easier without crawling under the car. Look for uneven tire wear especially on the shoulders. You can have cupping or feathering of the tires which can make the car vibrate. Wear due to worn front end parts. Things like ball joints, control arm bushings, inner and outer tie rods, shocks. Alignment issues can also cause wear. The tires themselves. They could be out of round or you could have a belt separation. Tire Rack has a really good tech center on their website explaining lots of things about tires. Finding a good shop or installer is a must.

https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/tiretech.jsp