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I am going to do all new bushings on my 95 and I want to put the car up on jack stands as high as I can. My shoulder width is 21 inches so I am not a little guy. Looking at 6 ton stands that can go 24 inches high. The only thing is that they have a minimum of 15 inches and not sure I could go that high going front and then back. My car is lowered and the pinch rail is 5 inches from the ground. I have read where a lot of members use stands so I wanted to get your advice.
I would like to get a quick jack but to $$$ right now.
Thanks Hawkeye56
After 17 years of building my car on jackstands I finally bought a quick jack last year. I love it. But in the jackstand days I did the entire build like that and that included the tyranny in and out 2x. A little tight but doable. They were regular standard issue jackstands.
And the tyranny just slides to the rear then pivot it to clear differential. Tight but it worked.
Last edited by FostersPerformance; Nov 20, 2020 at 11:53 AM.
I am going to do all new bushings on my 95 and I want to put the car up on jack stands as high as I can. My shoulder width is 21 inches so I am not a little guy. Looking at 6 ton stands that can go 24 inches high. The only thing is that they have a minimum of 15 inches and not sure I could go that high going front and then back. My car is lowered and the pinch rail is 5 inches from the ground. I have read where a lot of members use stands so I wanted to get your advice.
I would like to get a quick jack but to $$$ right now.
Thanks Hawkeye56
My advice is to NOT jack, front then back. Jack the car like the designers tell us to, right on the rocker of the car; one SIDE then the other SIDE. Any regular sized 3 ton floor jack will get you over 15" on the first lift, easy.
Last edited by Tom400CFI; Nov 20, 2020 at 02:53 PM.
My advice is to NOT jack, front then back. Jack the car like the designers tell us to, right on the rocker of the car; one SIDE then the other SIDE. Any regular sized 4 ton floor jack will get you over 15" on the first lift, easy.
I want to make sure I am clear on this, Jack Driver side first front and back, And then Jack Passenger side front and back ? I thought it would be easier on the car to jack front to 15" and then rear to 15" and then fine tune height.
But I do not know for sure and that is why i asked for advice.
It doesn't matter which side of the car you do first. It also doesn't matter if you do front or rear first b/c what ever jack placement you choose, it'll lift that entire side of the car, in one lift. In fact, you can lift from any point along the rocker rail, between the "lift here" points, and it'll lift the entire side of the car. Throw your stands under the steel lip/seam and go around and do the other side. Pay attention to NOT catch the floor pan with the jack pad. Just make sure that the pad is sufficiently under the seam, but not interfering with the floor.
It doesn't matter which side of the car you do first. It also doesn't matter if you do front or rear first b/c what ever jack placement you choose, it'll lift that entire side of the car, in one lift. In fact, you can lift from any point along the rocker rail, between the "lift here" points, and it'll lift the entire side of the car. Throw your stands under the steel lip/seam and go around and do the other side. Pay attention to NOT catch the floor pan with the jack pad. Just make sure that the pad is sufficiently under the seam, but not interfering with the floor.
This is why I really appreciate this Forum.
I was thinking about getting the rubber tops to go over the metal pad to try and eliminate that problem. Tom do you have a certain brand you like the best?
Thanks Hawkeye56
Brand of what? Rubber pads? My favorite brand of rubber pads is none. I don't want the rubber deflecting under the sharp, seam, then putting force onto the lip of the SMC rocker panel. I feel that a hard, steel jack pad is the best device for jacking the car.
Brand of what? Rubber pads? My favorite brand of rubber pads is none. I don't want the rubber deflecting under the sharp, seam, then putting force onto the lip of the SMC rocker panel. I feel that a hard, steel jack pad is the best device for jacking the car.
Ah. I have some "Black jack" branded, 12 ton stands. They are identical to THESE.
I like them for a few reasons:
1. They aren't the re-called Harbor Freight ones.
2. They're big/tall
3. They have a locking pin that slides into place after you set the height, as a secondary back up to the pawl.
4. They're massive over kill for a ~3300 lb car.
I think that any stout stand that has a secondary back up is a winner. I wouldn't care what brand they are.
.
.
Last edited by Tom400CFI; Nov 20, 2020 at 04:06 PM.
I found some 6 ton jack stands at Tractor Supply, They do have the double lock system like the ones you use. I like the double up safety with the pin.
Now I hope we have a warm Iowa winter like we had in the 1990”s. Boy do I feel old reflecting like this LOL 😂
Thanks
Hawkeye56
They also have bottle jack jack stand combos. They are pretty cool and useful. Wish I had them years ago....
Lots of options, I just got a 3.5 T floor jack at HF went to use it for the first time and it acted like it had air. Tried to bleed it according to the manual and it puked oil all over. Took it back and tried #2 . Test lifted her CRV no problem.
I doubt if a good made in USA could even be found.
I will probably order two sets of the stands today or Monday.
Thanks Hawkeye56
I've done it all on jack stands: swaps, rebuilds, chassis, and I'm not a small guy either. Anyway, I have found that having a second floor jack is well worth the cost in terms of speed and convenience!
Just high enough is good enough; keeping safety in mind. 22" seems more than adequate (excessive??), even if you are using a creeper to roll around under there with. But, for safety sake, after letting the jack stands take the load, I leave the floor jacks under the pinch welds for redundancy as a safety net "just in case" the unimaginable happens! They're seldom in the way, or if they initially are, they can be re-positioned later if need be. The peace of mind is (to me) well worth it!
I've done it all on jack stands: swaps, rebuilds, chassis, and I'm not a small guy either. Anyway, I have found that having a second floor jack is well worth the cost in terms of speed and convenience!
Just high enough is good enough; keeping safety in mind. 22" seems more than adequate (excessive??), even if you are using a creeper to roll around under there with. But, for safety sake, after letting the jack stands take the load, I leave the floor jacks under the pinch welds for redundancy as a safety net "just in case" the unimaginable happens! They're seldom in the way, or if they initially are, they can be re-positioned later if need be. The peace of mind is (to me) well worth it!
I actually have another floor jack. A Ac Delco 3.5 T A neighbor was down sizing to a Senior Apartment and he gave it to me for the use of my table saw and miter saw.
That is a good idea to have a little back up plan for safety.
Thanks Hawkeye56
What does the second jack do for saving time? Or improve convenience?
I would think convince mainly. When I purchased the HF jack I thought it would put less twist stress on the car . For example jack front up with a jack on each side so it can go evenly.
Thanks Hawkeye56
I would think convince mainly. When I purchased the HF jack I thought it would put less twist stress on the car . For example jack front up with a jack on each side so it can go evenly.
Thanks Hawkeye56
After the post with you yesterday I have since learned that if you Jack one side both front and rear lift. I always learn more about my car on this forum.
Thanks Hawkeye56
I would think convince mainly. When I purchased the HF jack I thought it would put less twist stress on the car . For example jack front up with a jack on each side so it can go evenly.
Thanks Hawkeye56
Waste of time.
Car's frame is way stronger than strong enough to tolerate any twisting force imparted on it by jacking. Jack one side, stand it, go to the other side. Repeat. 1 jack, 4 stands, 4 minutes or less. KISS.
After the post with you yesterday I have since learned that if you Jack one side both front and rear lift. I always learn more about my car on this forum.
Thanks Hawkeye56
Yep. That's what I was trying to say, here:
Originally Posted by Tom400CFI
...It also doesn't matter if you do front or rear first b/c what ever jack placement you choose, it'll lift that entire side of the car, in one lift. In fact, you can lift from any point along the rocker rail, between the "lift here" points, and it'll lift the entire side of the car. Throw your stands under the steel lip/seam and go around and do the other side. Pay attention to NOT catch the floor pan with the jack pad. Just make sure that the pad is sufficiently under the seam, but not interfering with the floor.
Jack stands
