Wanting a C4
Racer
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 277
Likes: 9
From: Clark County Nevada
Here is my take from a conservative point of view.
I owned a 1994 torch red coupe about 4 years that I sold in 2017. It was in immaculate condition with 40k miles. It was flawless and stunning when all upgrades and repairs were done. Keep in mind these cars are are approaching 30+ years old. No mater which C4 you buy unless it has documentation that maintenance and service work has been done on the car, (that I will explain below) you will most likely have to put money into for the many age-related things that come up.
If brakes, tires and shocks haven't been done those will be the first items to do - Just getting a new set of the aforementioned will transform the handling of a car. For example, a new set of Bilstein B6's will run you about $400 just for the parts, but if the mechanic doesn't allow you to supply them, he will most likely mark up the part with his labor charge. Then spark plugs and wires if they haven't been done. You will want to have in your pocket an extra $1500 bucks or so when the OptiSpark goes out, assuming you'll take it to a mechanic familiar with these cars.
Even though my car was in excellent condition, it slowly started showing its age and needed a few thousand in repairs. The OptiSpark eventually went out, so that was replaced along with a new water pump. My car also developed an overheating and fuel issue and so I needed to replace the radiator and injectors, among other things. That said though, once all the age related and maintenance was up to par, it was a fantastic car and trouble-free.
I always tell people if you're buying an old car, don't let emotions overshadow logic. Have at least an addtional $5,000 in the bank for repairs and your upgrades. Some people may think that is overkill, but what if something major happens, will you have the money?
Remember the C4 is not a collector car. The more money you put into a C4 above the insurable value, the more you will eat if you have a total loss. Also. if you try to resell you most likely may not get your money back. But if you're okay with that and want a cool car and you don't mind how much it cost to obtain and maintain and upgrade then what I've said is a moot point.
The ZR1 would be the more thrilling car to drive. If I was in your situation ( which I was actually) I would start out with the '94 coupe for $8,400. That is a great price in good condition! Even if you put $5k into it you're only into the car for $13.5K, and you'd have a really, really nice C4! You could most likely resell it at that price, and insure it for that agreed value or slightly more. Then after ownership if you still feel that the C4 is the car for you, sell the '94 coupe and upgrade to a ZR1.
Good luck with your decision!
I owned a 1994 torch red coupe about 4 years that I sold in 2017. It was in immaculate condition with 40k miles. It was flawless and stunning when all upgrades and repairs were done. Keep in mind these cars are are approaching 30+ years old. No mater which C4 you buy unless it has documentation that maintenance and service work has been done on the car, (that I will explain below) you will most likely have to put money into for the many age-related things that come up.
If brakes, tires and shocks haven't been done those will be the first items to do - Just getting a new set of the aforementioned will transform the handling of a car. For example, a new set of Bilstein B6's will run you about $400 just for the parts, but if the mechanic doesn't allow you to supply them, he will most likely mark up the part with his labor charge. Then spark plugs and wires if they haven't been done. You will want to have in your pocket an extra $1500 bucks or so when the OptiSpark goes out, assuming you'll take it to a mechanic familiar with these cars.
Even though my car was in excellent condition, it slowly started showing its age and needed a few thousand in repairs. The OptiSpark eventually went out, so that was replaced along with a new water pump. My car also developed an overheating and fuel issue and so I needed to replace the radiator and injectors, among other things. That said though, once all the age related and maintenance was up to par, it was a fantastic car and trouble-free.
I always tell people if you're buying an old car, don't let emotions overshadow logic. Have at least an addtional $5,000 in the bank for repairs and your upgrades. Some people may think that is overkill, but what if something major happens, will you have the money?
Remember the C4 is not a collector car. The more money you put into a C4 above the insurable value, the more you will eat if you have a total loss. Also. if you try to resell you most likely may not get your money back. But if you're okay with that and want a cool car and you don't mind how much it cost to obtain and maintain and upgrade then what I've said is a moot point.
The ZR1 would be the more thrilling car to drive. If I was in your situation ( which I was actually) I would start out with the '94 coupe for $8,400. That is a great price in good condition! Even if you put $5k into it you're only into the car for $13.5K, and you'd have a really, really nice C4! You could most likely resell it at that price, and insure it for that agreed value or slightly more. Then after ownership if you still feel that the C4 is the car for you, sell the '94 coupe and upgrade to a ZR1.
Good luck with your decision!
Last edited by Barchetta; Dec 24, 2020 at 01:38 PM.
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 81
Likes: 7
From: Cocoa Beach,Fl.
My 1996 triple Black convertible with 15,188 original miles $ 25,000 or best offer Cocoa Beach FL
new fuel pump,battery,sealed MSD ignition ,wires,new tires it is a LT-4 on the side of car
i drive the car 2 times a week,i live in Cocoa Beach,FL. i can drive it all year here
Last edited by joe733; Dec 26, 2020 at 03:37 PM. Reason: 1996 convertible 15,085 miles
Cruising
Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Rick, looks great!! Is that a feulie emblem on your hood?
Id grab the Z...not a bad price. However is it one of those cars that sits for years?
I would insist you have to see a running car so you know hes not covering up any running gear issues.
Lots of "ran when parked" cars that are junk.
Id grab the Z...not a bad price. However is it one of those cars that sits for years?
I would insist you have to see a running car so you know hes not covering up any running gear issues.
Lots of "ran when parked" cars that are junk.
Yes, there is a Fuel Injection emblem on either side, of the hood and the stingray emblem on the right side. A prior owner attached them,, but I'm going to leave them on there.. I think it's a nice touch though....
Rick
Last edited by rick Silverman; Dec 26, 2020 at 05:39 AM.
Cruising
Joined: Apr 2020
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Rick, looks great!! Is that a feulie emblem on your hood?
Id grab the Z...not a bad price. However is it one of those cars that sits for years?
I would insist you have to see a running car so you know hes not covering up any running gear issues.
Lots of "ran when parked" cars that are junk.
Id grab the Z...not a bad price. However is it one of those cars that sits for years?
I would insist you have to see a running car so you know hes not covering up any running gear issues.
Lots of "ran when parked" cars that are junk.
Yes, there is a "FUEL INJECTION" emblem on the hood. There is also a "Stingray" emblem on the front quarter panel on each side. These are also on the C3 corvettes...
Rick
Racer
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 362
Likes: 81
From: Indianapolis
Making sure it's a legit ZR1 via the vin, I'd be hard-pressed to pass that deal up. As a daily driver, I think the car could nickel and dime you to death (not unreliable, but as mentioned before basic maintenance on 30-year-old specialty cars). But still, I'd say buy the collector car at the discount price hands down.
And if you don't decide to go that way, please PM the guys contact info!
Ronn
And if you don't decide to go that way, please PM the guys contact info!
Ronn
Racer
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 400
Likes: 161
From: Ellicott City MD
As a past owner of a 86 with the 4+3 and a current owner of a 92 ZR-1 for the last 9 years, hands down go with the ZR-1! If you go to a car show or cars and coffee on the weekends, the car will get a lot of attention when you pop the hood. Not many around. Also let us know what part of the country you live in. Here in MD we have a great ZR-1 community and another strong area is around Chicago and all around Texas. Keep in mind that if you check on the ZR-1 Net Registry forum you will find answers to every question on the ZR-1--great support group. And yes 17" tires in stock ZR-1 size are getting difficult but we have solutions. The stock rear was a 315 35 17. I am now using a 335 35 17 Michelin Pilot Sport and the fit is perfect. It is a hair taller so at 70 mph your spedo is off by 2 or 3 mph but that is it, no big deal. And as Paul stated, a couple of mods and nothing but a huge grin............92 is a great year as only 502 ZR-1's were made and you have ASR and ABS.
