I've done that, and checked it costing down hill...50-60 Vibration slight just like when under throttle....
Thanks for checking in.

 

I bought my 94 a year ago with 17 year old near bald, cracked scary to drive on tires. I have no good basis to compare to "before" tire replacement driving. I replaced those with some Nittos. I am having the same issue, 54-58mph is the worse. I am actually going through this for a year now. New Bilstein's, suspension looks good except one blown bushing in the rear on a stabilizer link, but that won't cause this. I have Nitto's on there and last weekend I had a manager at a Discount Tire topping off the air for me, and I brought it up to him. 4 different times I have had tires road forced and at 3 different locations. I even removed the wheel band TPMS sensors, turns out I was missing one and never realized it. Just figured that one was bad and they are impossible to replace these days. Anyways, tomorrow I am going back because this manager at a 4th location is a Z06 owner who said he wants to Road force them for me. He mentioned the Nittos I have, have a bad rep and if we prove it is the tires, He get them credited and try something different. I have watched the road force test in the past, and suspect a a small bend in the left front rim. I like the idea of balancing the rim, with out the tire, I am going to see if I can get them to do that. If the tires are bad, I think I might go with a CZ wheel and tire swap. In the end, I really just want this to be over with. So annoying,

 

Change your alignment shop until you find the right mechanic who can solve your problem!

 

If everybody would stop paying mid-tier money for super-bottom-tier Nittos, they would stop being available and the world would be a better place. That being said, you don't need a wheel swap (unless it turns out you have a damaged wheel, of course) - you can just buy decent tires for the wheels you have. I'm guessing you have a base 94 with the 17x8.5 front wheels and 17x9.5 in back? Even in the OE sizes you can get Continental ExtremeContact Sport tires that are great quality and perform really well. Or you can switch to 245/45/17 front and 275/40/17 rear sizes and get a much better selection of tires.

 

I bought a Harbor Freight dial indicator just for the purpose of keeping an eye on rotating parts. you can clamp it or weight it down and run the rims laterally and radially. The good news is there Is a root cause. Also the bearings may be tricky, I know I have a bad rear, and it took a lot of force to see it move. The rear bearings are also a supporting component. They are a routine replacement item. Oscillation how can you check at speed? A quick look at runout specs I think is about .020 is and max allowable. Umm, check a run of bad luck on the tires. You need some one to put the smack down on really prying the suspension parts hard they wont break unless there was a big impact hit. The rear toe strut I believe has a plastic part in it that can break with an impact. Unfortunately these wheel tire problems are usually dealt with by the lowest rung techs who can use the right tools. Especially with the staggered saw blades, you cant really rotate them.