I'm self learning to use TunerPro RT, ALDLdroid, data logging and tuning. Purchased a chip burner and cables for OBD1 interfacing. Watched a few videos. Actual tuning seems very complicated. Any advice here would be appreciated.


Burn II Chip Programmer + ALDU1 & interface OBD1 Cable + G1 memory adapter + 27SF512 chip for burning.

 

Hi
Is just a steep learning curve, just make sure you make a spare std chip in case you mess something up. You can just use the moates ostrich 2.0 emulator plug the cable in to your ecm and plug the chip in, then you can do changes at any time no need to burn chips.
​​​​Make sure you write down any changes you make, and what the standard setting was.
I keep a book for that purpose, just approach it with an open mind and write down everything so you wont be left with a vette that wont run.

You will need the bin file and a few things for your year c4 to communicate with the ecm using tunerpro, all available for download from the tunerlro website.
For my 85 i use ANZA.bin, 1F.xdf and A20.ads
all that you need is on their website, with a lot of guides.

After first setting up the software and going through the tunerpro preferences, you should be be able to connect and be looking at your car's ecm settings in no time.

Good luck

 

I'm probably all over the map... I don't see an Ostrich in that pic of hardware. Is that something you're going to consider? If not, then you're restricted to logging data, manipulating the data based on your logged data, burn a new chip and repeat the whole process. TBH I rarely use emulation, only to dial in idle. '89 mask id would be $6E so use the xdf and adx TPRT v5 (xds and ads v4). I believe you can convert ads to adx or go to gearhead-efi.com. For the bin, start with whatever BCC you have or something closely related to it. If you're currently running on a mail order tune, it's possible to retrieve that tune with Moates HDR1 but sometimes it's better to start from stock as you may not be able to find every little thing that was done to it. TPRT has a compare tool so you can load both bins and toggle between the 2 to see what's different. I've never tuned MAF before but I believe you still use the BLM histogram averages and adjust your LV8 tables accordingly. Some recommend to disable Power Enrichment (PE) while dialing your cruise areas. Once cruise is dialed in, move onto WOT. The 27SF512 chip is bigger than the oe chip so when writing to it, you need to write to the chip with an offset. Speaking of that, your Burn II uses Moates software Flash and Burn. You might want to consider getting a zero insertion force (zif) socket to install onto the G1 adapter to facilitate installing and removing the chip. Pay attention to the direction you insert the chip by observing the little half moon on one end that designates pin 1 (Ostrich documentation goes a little more in detail about pin 1). Some will use the handle of the zif to designate the direction but if you get a zif like the one on your Burn II, the handle will get in the way of the ECM case and also too tall for the ECM cover to go back on. Your Burn II also will take a 32 pin EEPROM, make sure the 28 pin EEPROM is inserted filling all the pins away from the handle (top 4 vacant).

 

I have used the Ostrich for many years and over that time become very problematic, like out the blue the tune would drop for no apparent reason at a traffic light and go into limp mode. That REALLY sucks when far away from home and no laptop with you. I learned to ALWAYS carry my laptop with me no matter what. It would sometimes not take the tune and have to load it several times before you could get it to work properly when it would go into limp mode and was a PITA. This was not just one time thing either. I grew to hate that system and I finally scraped the entire Ostrich system and moved to the Dynamic EFI system, the EBL Flash II and have never looked back and have not had any issues with it yet from day one which was six years plus now. Works great, reliable and has never left me stranded. No need for a chip or chip burn since you load the tune into the ECM and go. Tweak it to what you want and go. I would IMO never recommend the Moates Ostrich system to anyone ever again. Not only that, but any time I called Moates the customer service sucked. I did not talk with Craig Moates, but whoever it was I was talking with was not customer oriented/friendly and had the attitude that I was wasting his time...really?! The flip side is that I have talked with Bob at Dynamic EFI numerous times and is a great and friendly guy and knows his product very well and the tuning side of things as well and willing to help the customer out no matter what the issue happens to be. Two thumbs up for Bob and the quality of his product.

With the EBL Flash II you can still use TunerPro or TunerPro RT if you like and you will also use the utility from Dynamic EFI called What's Up Display (WUD) to upload the tune, datalog, diagnostic display and monitor your system in real time along with other features. I think overall that system is a very good package. Also, to your concern about tuning. It IS a steep learning curve if you dive into the nuts and bolts of tuning using TunerPro or anything else. The EBL has a feature called "Learn Mode" so you don't have to go into all the tuning side of things per-say. I went to tuning school at EFI University when they were still in CA, now they are in Lake Havasu AZ to learn the correct way to tune and I HIGHLY suggest that if you really want to learn how to effectively tuning a motor properly, you take their course(s) ...they have several. They are not necessarily cheap, but either is a motor if you tune it wrong and blow it up. Choose your poison IMO. Good luck with whatever way you go.

 

Its just a steep learning curve.

Best to make small changes at a time, datalog, then make small changes again. Keep something you know that works well and return to it when you mess something up. Keeping a notebook just for this is a good idea.

Preferably keep a spare chip.

 

Agreed. While people say you can leave the Ostrich in place of the chip, that just seems insane to me. Once I've got the tune down, onto a proper chip it goes. As a bonus that frees up the Ostrich for the next project.

 

I concur and even more so with an under hood ECM. Had it hooked up with the wires dangling from under the hood...well refuse to leave it like that when done tuning.

 

93 LT1 - Same. Probably the first purchase was a moates system. Coming from Gen 6 Hptuners on GM LTG I was spoiled on internal built in O2 and with over the road instantaneous gratification with a couple of tweaks and click load is all you need. Yes BUILT IN O2 Wideband don't laugh 200 hp per liter Free to the self tuners who can do it. I don't even have plans to do serious air flow mods. Yet. Maybe a Procharger. Nothing beats a bolt on 100 hp. Its the new current thing with all the forced induction cars now., add boost air and tune air via MAF and ur done. Unless you need fuel. Anyways, my spare time thoughts go to remapping the wiring harness to a new modern ECU. Up to 97 needs a reluctor system of some sort. They are in short supply today. Its a ways off.. I'm focusing on the man cave first. Please keep adding info as you go.

 

Hi all,
Finally checking in. I'm so grateful for your replies and great advice. Stew86MCSS396, buccaneer, Vader86, Nomake Wan, 93QuasarBlue,
I did indeed purchase an Ostrich and the quick release zif adapter for the memory adapter. after a long and arduous journey of research I finally did figure out the right TunerPro files as a base start. The chip was aftermarket and had no sticker identifying nor was there the under the console sticker also identifying car type, etc. But, I was able to figure it out this C4, conv. 6speed, 333 gears, calls for the APYP.bin and the 6E.XDF I am unsure but using the 1227165_6E.ads. Seems to work. I have interfaced with my car while running and read the OBD dashboard.
That's as far as I've gotten as I then began a dig into the motor because of chasing a vacuum leak and weak fuel pressure in the rail. So getting the motor right before tune. I am mid re-due the top end fuel system and removed the intake manifold/valve covers for clean up and powrder coat. I have all the rotating assembly removed for powder coating and while I have it down I'm going to do a Cam swap. There's only 2000 miles on this fresh engine stoked and bored 388 displacement OEM-L98. I really love the stock TPI system and I intend to keep it mainly stock looking. However, all the cat, egr, airpump, deleted. It's just all motor. Plus no Optispark to deal with and I really feel I dodged a bullet there :-)
So a tune is needed.
I really wish there was a harness kit to buy and upgrade this 89 C4 to OBDII. I can't find any info on that. But alas, I have invested into all these Moates products and I am hoping to do some advanced tuning.
Loved reading your advice above 'all'. The Ostrich dropping the tune while driving sounds actually quite frightening and I will heed that advice to keep my laptop handy and not just 'live' on the Ostrich but burn the chip until further tuning is needed. I don't know, well see. I will also look into Dynamic EFI.
I still have a long way to go as I examine and learn to edit Fuel, Spark and MAF tables along with data logging. Gotta admit it's a little intimidating but also an exciting challenge and I feel I will get a grip on it. Been watching engine timing and tuning tutorials for better understanding of advancing the timing with fuel injection. Also I intend to upgrade from the 21lb injectors to 30lb injectors and fuel pump. I'm thinking to trying to use the OEM fuel regulator as it IS adjustable. I will upgrade if needed but I want to try it.
Couple of questions I have just on the surface level:
* After finish motor upgrades, do I first start with the distributor unplugged for a base tune with timing light? I assume it will start as those directions for base tune are on a sticker on the radiator shroud. But this will be with new cam and new tune. I don't know proper procedures for first start up.
* I really want to figure out a way to use the OBD1 oxygen sensor to accept a wide band and delete the OEM narrow band all in the same hole with the original harness setup if possible. Anyway I am adding a wide band and gauge one way or another.
* I can't seem to copy the original/mail order tune that was on the memory adapter already when I bought the car. The OEM chip is long gone. So I am using the files that was available at Moates.com and I guess I will have to start with that. Although I do have the original/mail order chip and it does run the car, after the cam and injector upgrades it will no longer be valid.

Thanks again for these very insightful replies, great knowledge ya'll!

 

I'd talk to @tequilaboy

 

What is preventing you from reading the bin file from the current mail order tune eprom? Perhaps a chip addressing/programmer setting issue? What is the chip type? If 27FS512, the working 16 k bin file will be located between C000 and 0FFF or the bottom 16 k of the chip.

If trying to use ALDLdroid to read and/or program chip, ALDLdroid seems to screw up the addressing for the 16 k bin size and chip type (wants to read/save 32 k) and can be very confusing trying to read/edit and program a chip with ALDLdroid. Even with correct addressing and being careful, I get screwy results 9 out of 10 times. You can't trust the verify chip to buffer either. I've given up on trying to edit and program with ALDLdroid.

Try adjusting the address settings manually to read and save only the bottom 16 kb (C000 to 0FFF), or just use a desktop or laptop with Flash & Burn or the TunerPro Moates Prom I/O interface directly.

Also, don't be in a rush to upgrade injectors, unless you really require the additional fuel. You only have mass airflow sensing capacity for 255 gm/sec. (8) 21 lb/hr injectors at 12:1 afr are sufficient for 255 gm/sec airflow. If you're able to peg the maf or require a richer afr, then you may require more fuel.

 

@tequilaboy Thanks you for advice. I may contact you again when I am in the weeds with this tuning. I have decided to leave the injectors like they are. You are correct. no need to upgrade.