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Gauge Cluster Question

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Old Jan 14, 2021 | 08:24 PM
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Default Gauge Cluster Question

Since my dash is still apart from the starting issue that turned out to be a previously unknown kill switch (it still hurts to think about)..... I'm replacing things to make it worthwhile. New window switches, hazzard relay, even put in the correct starter relay and undid the bypass.

Now the gauges. The numbers for the tach have never displayed correctly. Also the overdrive light never goes on when I shift into overdrive, and the car does go into over drive. I thought there was something wrong with that LCD but in looking at it tonight I'm not sure. when you first turn the key the tach display shows '88' like it should, then becomes "r5" after the self test is done. when going down the road the tach bar graph seems to respond correctly but the numbers display weird hieroglyphics. Anyone seen this? I know the dash cluster is not original because tracking the odometer readings through carfax by NYS inspections it's been changed at least 4 times.'



Key first turned to run. panel looks like everything works

shortly after self test. The upshift and overdrive lights are not lit - I think the flash makes them look like they are.

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Old Jan 14, 2021 | 09:08 PM
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oh - before I forget. The odometer doesn't work (think it needs a new stepper motor) and it looks like someone already did the internal plug replacement that connects the two boards.


Last edited by LokiFalkor; Jan 14, 2021 at 11:09 PM.
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Old Jan 14, 2021 | 11:08 PM
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Fixed the odometer - Stepper motor didn't turn. It did free up and functions when you apply voltage. Reset the odometer while I was there. Don't worry - I just did it for me. My title already says it's exempt from odometer 'cuz it's over 10 yrs old and the Carfax is loaded with odometer discrepancies.


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Old Jan 15, 2021 | 01:47 AM
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Might as well replace all bulbs, since you're in there anyway.
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Old Jan 15, 2021 | 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by 65Z01
Might as well replace all bulbs, since you're in there anyway.
I did those last month. Getting good at taking this apart. I used blue LEDs. the ones on amazon under "Marsauto 194 LED Bulb Blue". Originally I tried the LEDs that just project from the top, but they didn't disperse the light enough like an incandescent. These project to the top and sides so are visible during the day and look really bright at night.

Of course I'm red/green colorblind so what I see is different then most, but they look blue to me - lol...
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Old Jan 16, 2021 | 01:20 PM
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Since this is not the original cluster for my car, any one know how to tell if it's the correct year? I know 84 had a slightly different tach display, but other then that am not sure.
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Old Jan 16, 2021 | 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by LokiFalkor
Since this is not the original cluster for my car, any one know how to tell if it's the correct year? I know 84 had a slightly different tach display, but other then that am not sure.
Is there any label attached that have an 8 digit # 2507xxxx or 2508xxxx. I don't know that numbers off of the printed circuits could be used or not but I'd think it's possible. What's the info from the label on the circuit in your snapshot?
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Old Jan 16, 2021 | 08:43 PM
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Hi, there's no 8 digit number or any number on the outside of the cluster. The number on the PCB with the bat code is 06795001020926

Last edited by LokiFalkor; Jan 16, 2021 at 08:43 PM.
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Old Jan 22, 2021 | 03:00 PM
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I was going to say maybe it was a missing segment but if they all work for the light test that can't be it. Does the lcd display look like it is cracked around the contacts? How do your elastomeric connectors look?

I also have a blue gauge cluster now. I ended up buying a true-color kit from Ecklers. I have to take it back apart to do the polarizing film next. I am hoping it keeps some of the backlighting from showing through the parts of the display that should be off (metric readings, ect.)

I see you are from Walden, I just moved out of the hamlet of Wallkill last year.



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Old Jan 22, 2021 | 04:33 PM
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The LCDs are not cracked and the connectors all looked good when I pulled the pcb off the panel. I dunno at this point. Going to start diagnosing the cruise control now. Maybe that will point to a cluster issue. Did you stay local or move away? I'm more town of Montgomery then walden, off plains road. Go to the rhinebeck car show?
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Old Jan 22, 2021 | 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by LokiFalkor
The LCDs are not cracked and the connectors all looked good when I pulled the pcb off the panel. I dunno at this point. Going to start diagnosing the cruise control now. Maybe that will point to a cluster issue. Did you stay local or move away? I'm more town of Montgomery then walden, off plains road. Go to the rhinebeck car show?

If you aren't already aware of Batee, there is a ton of information on his website and youtube. https://batee.com/pages/84-89-corvet...nd-information. That should get you in the right direction as far as troubleshooting.

I was commuting from Wallkill to Newark and it sucked. Had the chance to move to Indy making the same money with the same company and I jumped on it.

Small world, my Mother lives on Strawridge right off of Plains so I am pretty familiar with that area. I drove my Corvette out that way back in July. I have never been to the Rhinebeck car show but I hear it is awesome. I was looking forward to all the car shows that are in Indy but obviously covid put a stop to most of that.



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