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Hi Guys. super excited, recently bought a 1995 c4 base model. 94k miles. Lt1.automatic. it needs some restoration. so far iv had the knock sensors replaced. coolant system tune up..and recently spent $2200 on a new AC .it needed a new condenser, compressor and all the components. sadly after I got the air blowing cold..I noticed a metallic knocking coming from inside the motor. I'm going to go for a diagnostic soon, and post what they find wrong. hope to be on the road soon !
Last edited by 95c4vett; Feb 11, 2021 at 10:53 AM.
Hello gentlemen so today I got my car diagnostic and the torque converter clutch went faulty. i also found out that my 1995 automatic uses an OBD2 scanner rather than an OBD1 scanner ? After I get the car in my garage I tried to turn it on and it won't start. The starter is turning but,I hear a loud grinding sound. Will my torque converter Clutch going bad, prevent my car from turning Over? and which other components will I need to replace, along with the torque converter clutch ? I have an appointment with a transmission specialist. I Dont want to go in green behind the ears thanks ! i hope to be on the road soon. I'm glad it's not my engine, Hope this helps someone with A loud metallic knocking sound. I know that sound could mean many things. good luck
Could this cause my transmission to seize? My car won't turn over starter seems to be fine
THANK U. OK gentlemen today i got the diagnostic done on my 95 automatic. it was scanned with an OBD2? i thought 95' needed OBD1. ANYHOW a faulty torque converter clutch code came up. I am wondering what other parts and components I will need to replace along with this piece. and also can this problem cause my Transmission to seize. The car won't turn over but the starter seems to be fine
could this have been the metallic knocking I was hearing. I have an appointment with a transmission specialist.i don't want to go in green behind the ears.what other parts and components can I expect along with this repair
Last edited by 95c4vett; Feb 11, 2021 at 05:56 PM.
Your 1995 does not use an OBD2 scanner. The physical plug is the same shape as an OBD2 connector, but the pinout is different, and the computers in your car are all 8192 ALDL protocol (not J1850 OBD2 as on a 1996 Corvette). So either your car is not a 1995, or that Snap-on scanner supports 8192 ALDL protocol. I'm not there so I don't know which it is.
Either way, as I already answered in your other thread, it is probably caused by the TCC solenoid reaming out its bore and losing hydraulic pressure, a common issue on the 1995-1996 4L60E. If this happens the TCC will never engage. While bad for fuel economy on cruises, this won't cause any damage to your engine or transmission. Your issue with not being able to start the car is something else. I'd check the basics first, including making sure it's not a VATS issue.
Your 1995 does not use an OBD2 scanner. The physical plug is the same shape as an OBD2 connector, but the pinout is different, and the computers in your car are all 8192 ALDL protocol (not J1850 OBD2 as on a 1996 Corvette). So either your car is not a 1995, or that Snap-on scanner supports 8192 ALDL protocol. I'm not there so I don't know which it is.
Either way, as I already answered in your other thread, it is probably caused by the TCC solenoid reaming out its bore and losing hydraulic pressure, a common issue on the 1995-1996 4L60E. If this happens the TCC will never engage. While bad for fuel economy on cruises, this won't cause any damage to your engine or transmission. Your issue with not being able to start the car is something else. I'd check the basics first, including making sure it's not a VATS issue.
THANK YOU FOR ALL THE HELPFUL INFORMATION
I'm sad to have learned. that I may have thrown a rod.after I got it home I noticed it was dumping oil where it was parked. i think the engine is seized/blown..It completely turned off on me while it was in drive and wouldnt turn over anymore.this happened after I left the shop who scanned the codes.i recently replaced the battery.perhaps thats why no other codes came up.it makes a terrible metallic grinding soud..wayy worse than it was yesterday. any recommendations on where to buy a 350 5.7 LT1 for a 1995 ?? thanks!
Last edited by 95c4vett; Feb 12, 2021 at 02:14 AM.
Factory fresh long block for under $3000. Hope you got into that '95 cheap. Sucks to hear.
I bought the car for 7k because I thought it was in good condition. obviously it wasnt..I recently spent an additional 2800 on a complete Ac system plus new battery and a few radiator hoses. the car had been sitting for a few years. before I bought it.. I wish I know the engine was bad before I repaired the air conditioner..I feel a little discouraged.. The Air condition shop should have been able to tell me the engine was gonna die! obviously I wouldn't have fixed those issues at this time hope to be on the road soon ! $9800 into it and it has a seized motor lmao 🤣 I'm sick🤢 what are they worth in excellent condition? am I'm in way to deep.?I know I'm in more money than it's worth ,but I do want to finish this project. thank u for all ur help.i live in sparks nv right by summit racing headquarters. I plan on buying that block posted..looks like I'll need a lot of new parts a long with it.looking forward to my new project! thanks guys !
Last edited by 95c4vett; Feb 12, 2021 at 12:30 AM.
I bought the car for 7k because I thought it was in good condition. obviously it wasnt..I recently spent an additional 2800 on a complete Ac system plus new battery and a few radiator hoses. the car had been sitting for a few years. before I bought it.. I wish I know the engine was bad before I repaired the air conditioner..I feel a little discouraged.. The Air condition shop should have been able to tell me the engine was gonna die! obviously I wouldn't have fixed those issues at this time hope to be on the road soon !
OUCH! I paid 10,000 for a 40,000 mile Red 1995. My 95 is in the mint/near mint category. My 94 was only 8000 with 60,000 miles and is a 6 speed car. I love to driving both of them. I think you might be in the hole with this one. Good luck. Working on them is a lot of fun though.
Factory fresh long block for under $3000. Hope you got into that '95 cheap. Sucks to hear.
Iv found a used 1 on ebay..I think I'm gonna go this route. it comes complete and with the transmission. Any opinions on dropping something used into it? thanks for your input. it really helps!
will I be able to salvage all of the NEW AC parts and components that I JUST installed on the engine that took a dump?
Last edited by 95c4vett; Feb 12, 2021 at 02:11 AM.
Iv found a used 1 on ebay..I think I'm gonna go this route. it comes complete and with the transmission. Any opinions on dropping something used into it?
How do you know it's any better than the one you just blew a new observation window through? Generally speaking, if you're going to buy a used engine and trans from some rando on eBay, you're going to want to commit to having it on an engine stand and refreshing it yourself rather than trusting it's actually good. Additionally, this is for a '96. Is your car a '96 or a '95? There were some sensor-related changes to the engine on the '96. It's not that you can't use it, it's just that you have to account for those changes when you go to put it in. But if your "95" is actually a 96, then it'll be fine.
Originally Posted by 95c4vett
will I be able to salvage all of the NEW AC parts and components that I JUST installed on the engine that took a dump?
Of course you can, since you're yanking the engine out anyway. All the accessories have to be disconnected to remove the engine. They're not a part of the engine itself.
How do you know it's any better than the one you just blew a new observation window through? Generally speaking, if you're going to buy a used engine and trans from some rando on eBay, you're going to want to commit to having it on an engine stand and refreshing it yourself rather than trusting it's actually good. Additionally, this is for a '96. Is your car a '96 or a '95? There were some sensor-related changes to the engine on the '96. It's not that you can't use it, it's just that you have to account for those changes when you go to put it in. But if your "95" is actually a 96, then it'll be fine.
Of course you can, since you're yanking the engine out anyway. All the accessories have to be disconnected to remove the engine. They're not a part of the engine itself.
If you cant see/hear it run. I would rather buy a new/rebuilt/used from someone local you can physically take it to and have some sort of recourse if there's a problem. Giving them a bad review or rating more than likely wont get your issue resolved or $$$ back.
New c4 corvette owner
I feel a little discouraged.. The Air condition shop should have been able to tell me the engine was gonna die! obviously I wouldn't have fixed those issues at this time
