Both headlights won’t open.
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 10
Likes: 1
From: Mohnton,Pa
Both headlights won’t open.
Hello again everyone,
I’ve recently discovered that now both of my headlights do not open and do not even attempt to move when the switch is pulled. Both headlights will retract if I plug the motors back in after I manually open them. It also seems like all relays are clicking when the headlight switch is pulled. Not sure where to go from here lol, both headlights worked last year, then the right side stopped, now both don’t work.
Any input/suggestions on how to tackle this next would be greatly appreciated.
I’ve recently discovered that now both of my headlights do not open and do not even attempt to move when the switch is pulled. Both headlights will retract if I plug the motors back in after I manually open them. It also seems like all relays are clicking when the headlight switch is pulled. Not sure where to go from here lol, both headlights worked last year, then the right side stopped, now both don’t work.
Any input/suggestions on how to tackle this next would be greatly appreciated.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 1,052
Likes: 290
From: Farmington MO
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 10
Likes: 1
From: Mohnton,Pa
Just went out and tried, cranked them back and forth to no avail. Nothing with this car is ever that simple! Lol. It seems to me that the switch has gone bad, which I know is a PIA to replace. Thanks for your suggestions and I’ll post back here if/when I get it figured out.
Racer
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 483
Likes: 109
From: Fairfax, Virginia
Sounds like a wiring issue or a failed relay, to test the light switch disconnect the isolation relay, if you have 12V on the yellow wire with the switch pulled, and a few volts to 0 volts with it pushed in the switch is good. I had the same issue with my 85 when I first bought it and it was the relays, not the switch.
The relays are absurdly expensive and are set up so each headlight has its own relay. I'm not a fan of that because you get unique failures where one works normally and the other doesn't. I personally cut the relays out and wired in three 40A automotive relay sockets, instead of right, left and isolation relays, I use an up, down and, isolation relay, and the entire setup cost me less than replacing one of the stock ones
The relays are absurdly expensive and are set up so each headlight has its own relay. I'm not a fan of that because you get unique failures where one works normally and the other doesn't. I personally cut the relays out and wired in three 40A automotive relay sockets, instead of right, left and isolation relays, I use an up, down and, isolation relay, and the entire setup cost me less than replacing one of the stock ones
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 10
Likes: 1
From: Mohnton,Pa
Sounds like a wiring issue or a failed relay, to test the light switch disconnect the isolation relay, if you have 12V on the yellow wire with the switch pulled, and a few volts to 0 volts with it pushed in the switch is good. I had the same issue with my 85 when I first bought it and it was the relays, not the switch.
The relays are absurdly expensive and are set up so each headlight has its own relay. I'm not a fan of that because you get unique failures where one works normally and the other doesn't. I personally cut the relays out and wired in three 40A automotive relay sockets, instead of right, left and isolation relays, I use an up, down and, isolation relay, and the entire setup cost me less than replacing one of the stock ones
The relays are absurdly expensive and are set up so each headlight has its own relay. I'm not a fan of that because you get unique failures where one works normally and the other doesn't. I personally cut the relays out and wired in three 40A automotive relay sockets, instead of right, left and isolation relays, I use an up, down and, isolation relay, and the entire setup cost me less than replacing one of the stock ones
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 2,874
Likes: 764
From: Sligo PA
I got tired of having headlight issues all the time. So I removed the isolation relays all together. I got a very nice simple relay/fuse box off ebay and rewired it myself. I installed a very small toggle switch that controls the head light motors (2 five pin relays) and I used the factory pull switch to turn the bulbs on. No isolation relay, no ripple current relay and no limit switches. Now it works every time. Just take your finger off the button when it's up or down all the way.
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 1,705
Likes: 326
Finalist 2020 C4 of the Year - Unmodified
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Racer
Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 483
Likes: 109
From: Fairfax, Virginia
I got tired of having headlight issues all the time. So I removed the isolation relays all together. I got a very nice simple relay/fuse box off ebay and rewired it myself. I installed a very small toggle switch that controls the head light motors (2 five pin relays) and I used the factory pull switch to turn the bulbs on. No isolation relay, no ripple current relay and no limit switches. Now it works every time. Just take your finger off the button when it's up or down all the way.
Oh cool, same here, the OEM DPDT relays are more failure-prone compared to a modern heavy-duty SPDT relay not to mention the SPDT relay comes in at a fraction of the cost, and a smaller package. While the SPDT relays may be a SPOF, it's a much more robust solution that will last much longer than the OE relays for less than the cost of an OE replacement. Not as elaborate or cool a solution as stock, but a 40A waterproof relay will last much longer the OE ones and is available at your local parts store, it'll be easier to replace than the fusible link.
Last edited by ThatOneKid; Apr 27, 2021 at 08:19 PM.
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 10
Likes: 1
From: Mohnton,Pa
Sorry for the delay in response everyone, got tied up with work and finals week in college and didn’t get to work on it until last week. After struggling to get the relays out, I discovered they were all corroded to hell. Bought and replaced all three relays and cleaned up the connectors with contact cleaner and headlights work like a charm now! Definitely not the problem I thought it would be but hopefully this helps someone else out there. Thanks everyone for your assistance.
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Joined: Apr 1999
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From: North Yorkshire, England
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The Relays are only for the Headlight Motors, they are not involved with illumination.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 2,856
Likes: 187
From: Earth
Hello again everyone,
I’ve recently discovered that now both of my headlights do not open and do not even attempt to move when the switch is pulled. Both headlights will retract if I plug the motors back in after I manually open them. It also seems like all relays are clicking when the headlight switch is pulled. Not sure where to go from here lol, both headlights worked last year, then the right side stopped, now both don’t work.
Any input/suggestions on how to tackle this next would be greatly appreciated.
I’ve recently discovered that now both of my headlights do not open and do not even attempt to move when the switch is pulled. Both headlights will retract if I plug the motors back in after I manually open them. It also seems like all relays are clicking when the headlight switch is pulled. Not sure where to go from here lol, both headlights worked last year, then the right side stopped, now both don’t work.
Any input/suggestions on how to tackle this next would be greatly appreciated.