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The car is new to me and I have not driven the car since I got it 3 weeks ago, I had the dash apart for repair. I was wondering if there is a way to kill the Tire Pressure Sensor light on the dash. The tire pressures are all where they should be. The components had gone to Batee for repair and I just got through putting the dash back together. I don't want to take it apart again to remove the bulb. I made sure all the lights worked but never started the car I probably should have.
How do you find the bad sensor? Sounds like it would be an expensive fix with 4 dismounts, 4 mount and balance and probably 4 new sensors
LTPWS issues are a fairly common thing
Last edited by WallyDog40; Apr 25, 2021 at 09:58 AM.
If it is the transmitter in the tire, yes, 4 dismounts, mounts and balance are what is necessary. If it has been a while, the battery might be bad and if 1 is bad, all are due for changing so I would do all 4. But I would need a scanner that can read it to tell me if it is the transmitters or the circuits in the car itself.
If it is the transmitter in the tire, yes, 4 dismounts, mounts and balance are what is necessary. If it has been a while, the battery might be bad and if 1 is bad, all are due for changing so I would do all 4. But I would need a scanner that can read it to tell me if it is the transmitters or the circuits in the car itself.
Thanks! At 25 years old it's probably the sensors in the tires. I'm kicking myself for not starting the car when I put the dash back together!!!! I would have pulled the bulb. Out of curiosity what type of a battery do they take? Special no doubt...
Thanks! At 25 years old it's probably the sensors in the tires. I'm kicking myself for not starting the car when I put the dash back together!!!! I would have pulled the bulb. Out of curiosity what type of a battery do they take? Special no doubt...
See if there is a Discount Tire or someone that can scan a C4. They might have the plug to do it. I would keep the TPMS simply because I am OCD enough that I want all systems working and it also helps to catch me when it has an issue and I don't notice it till it is too late.
If it is the transmitter in the tire, yes, 4 dismounts, mounts and balance are what is necessary. If it has been a while, the battery might be bad and if 1 is bad, all are due for changing so I would do all 4. But I would need a scanner that can read it to tell me if it is the transmitters or the circuits in the car itself.
Thanks! At 25 years old it's probably the sensors in the tires. I'm kicking myself for not starting the car when I put the dash back together!!!! I would have pulled the bulb. Out of curiosity what type of a battery do they take? Special no doubt...
I just remembered back in 05 I have a friend that had bought a Mustang GT. The first thing he does with every car he gets is change the wheels and tires. So the Mustang had tire pressure sensors in the tires and for what ever reason they would not fit into the new tires and wheels. He devised a PVC pipe tube capped on either end with the sensors inside and with a tire valve in one end. Lots of PVC glue and an over night to dry well. He charged the tube with air to the correct PSI and kept it in the trunk. It shut the light off and actually held pressure for quite some time. I was thinking it would work with Corvette sensors. if you bought new sensors and didn't want to take the tires apart that is
I just remembered back in 05 I have a friend that had bought a Mustang GT. The first thing he does with every car he gets is change the wheels and tires. So the Mustang had tire pressure sensors in the tires and for what ever reason they would not fit into the new tires and wheels. He devised a PVC pipe tube capped on either end with the sensors inside and with a tire valve in one end. Lots of PVC glue and an over night to dry well. He charged the tube with air to the correct PSI and kept it in the trunk. It shut the light off and actually held pressure for quite some time. I was thinking it would work with Corvette sensors. if you bought new sensors and didn't want to take the tires apart that is
IDK. If it goes by pressure, sure. Sounds like a royal PITA but whatever. If it goes by rotation, probably not.
First TPMS sensors are hard to find on the used market. No new ones are around. They will be expensive $125 to $300 each if you can find them.
You can pull the codes from your car and it will list which one is bad (if they are even there at all) since a lot of people just discarded them or they were damaged during tire installation. Each one is coded and assigned a specific color for each wheel. Also they do not have a battery. They self generate an electrical current as they rotate as you drive the car. The light will often come on initially until the car has been driven a short distance when the sensors will generate a current and send a signal to the module. My cars are usually about 1/4 of mile when this happens. Also the sensor are different from early years (I believe 88-93) is one set and the later ones are 94-96 so you need to make sure they are right for your car.
Search TPMS not TPM and you will find more information.
First TPMS sensors are hard to find on the used market. No new ones are around. They will be expensive $125 to $300 each if you can find them.
You can pull the codes from your car and it will list which one is bad (if they are even there at all) since a lot of people just discarded them or they were damaged during tire installation. Each one is coded and assigned a specific color for each wheel. Also they do not have a battery. They self generate an electrical current as they rotate as you drive the car. The light will often come on initially until the car has been driven a short distance when the sensors will generate a current and send a signal to the module. My cars are usually about 1/4 of mile when this happens. Also the sensor are different from early years (I believe 88-93) is one set and the later ones are 94-96 so you need to make sure they are right for your car.
Search TPMS not TPM and you will find more information.
Right Rear: Orange, DTC=24
Left Rear: Yellow, DTC=34
Left Front: Green, DTC=44
Right Front: Blue, DTC= 54
Guess it is time to pull the light bulb. What a PITA
Finding out which sensor is bad depends on what year car you have. If you have the 12-pin ALDL connector, jump A and B. If you have the 16-pin ALDL connector, jump 5 and 6. The SERVICE LTPWS light will blink codes at you. Long blink is 10, short blink is 1. So Long Long Short Short Short Short is 24.
The sensors are no longer available for reasonable prices. For now you are better off removing the bulb, as suggested. Also if you have a 93 or later, I'll gladly take your broken sensor. I'm trying to figure out a way to adapt modern TPMS to work with the old LTPWS, and already have stuff from a 92, but the system changed in 93 so I'm looking for a sensor from one of those to research.
Good luck!
Last edited by Nomake Wan; Apr 25, 2021 at 06:46 PM.
First TPMS sensors are hard to find on the used market. No new ones are around. They will be expensive $125 to $300 each if you can find them.
You can pull the codes from your car and it will list which one is bad (if they are even there at all) since a lot of people just discarded them or they were damaged during tire installation. Each one is coded and assigned a specific color for each wheel. Also they do not have a battery. They self generate an electrical current as they rotate as you drive the car. The light will often come on initially until the car has been driven a short distance when the sensors will generate a current and send a signal to the module. My cars are usually about 1/4 of mile when this happens. Also the sensor are different from early years (I believe 88-93) is one set and the later ones are 94-96 so you need to make sure they are right for your car.
Search TPMS not TPM and you will find more information.
Right Rear: Orange, DTC=24
Left Rear: Yellow, DTC=34
Left Front: Green, DTC=44
Right Front: Blue, DTC= 54
You are right on all counts. I did find they don't have batteries and they are a radio signal pulse generated by rotation. I should have save the search, I'll see if I can find them again, but I found new GM sensors for 37.00 each. They were for a 1993 C4 according to the ad. I'm going to go look again!
You are right on all counts. I did find they don't have batteries and they are a radio signal pulse generated by rotation. I should have save the search, I'll see if I can find them again, but I found new GM sensors for 37.00 each. They were for a 1993 C4 according to the ad. I'm going to go look again!
I'm wrong!! the ones I found were for the wrong year. I really wishing I had pulled the bulb before I put the cluster back in...
I finally got the car registered so now I can drive it . The tire pressure sensor light on the dash goes out once It's driven for about a 1/4 mile just like someone had mentioned earlier. It stays out for the entire ride too. Park it and the next day the light is lit again. Drive it and it goes out and stays out. That can't be the way it's supposed to work is it? I guess either way if it goes out and stays out while I'm driving the car I can live with it.
Yes, that is exactly how they are supposed to work! The rotation of the wheels generates the power for the sensors so they can communicate with the module. The light being on when you start driving tells you the system is working, then the sensors generate power and monitor tire pressure, and if everything is functioning correctly the light goes out.
I finally got the car registered so now I can drive it . The tire pressure sensor light on the dash goes out once It's driven for about a 1/4 mile just like someone had mentioned earlier. It stays out for the entire ride too. Park it and the next day the light is lit again. Drive it and it goes out and stays out. That can't be the way it's supposed to work is it? I guess either way if it goes out and stays out while I'm driving the car I can live with it.
You should check to see what code is stored with the method I gave you earlier.
Once you have the code(s), you can reset the system by jumping the same pins you used to pull the codes three times in a row. This will cause the light to come on solid if you did it right. Turn the car back off, and the next time you turn it on the light will be out (until the next time an error occurs).