Two alternator options
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2015
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From: Park Ridge New Jersey
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
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I'm looking at replacing my alternator and came across these two choices. The only difference I can see is one is a "professional" grade and the other "Original Equipment"
Is there any other differences?
Is the O.E. one worth the extra money?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049ZDORS...v_ov_lig_dp_it
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C9M4SA...v_ov_lig_dp_it
TIA
Is there any other differences?
Is the O.E. one worth the extra money?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049ZDORS...v_ov_lig_dp_it
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C9M4SA...v_ov_lig_dp_it
TIA
An original in '96 I'd think would be 10480202 KG9
Last edited by WVZR-1; Apr 27, 2021 at 03:42 PM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 2,069
Likes: 262
From: Park Ridge New Jersey
Mine has 90K miles on it and it is grungy compared to the other parts in the engine bay. I didn't want to mess with it cleaning it up, so I thought if I bought a "new" one I could polish it and hold the original as a back up.
What aftermarket brands are good? Why are they better than stock?
Thanks.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
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The p/n you gave me at summit is the same as the O.E. one ($200+)
Mine has 90K miles on it and it is grungy compared to the other parts in the engine bay. I didn't want to mess with it cleaning it up, so I thought if I bought a "new" one I could polish it and hold the original as a back up.
What aftermarket brands are good? Why are they better than stock?
Thanks.
Mine has 90K miles on it and it is grungy compared to the other parts in the engine bay. I didn't want to mess with it cleaning it up, so I thought if I bought a "new" one I could polish it and hold the original as a back up.
What aftermarket brands are good? Why are they better than stock?
Thanks.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 2,069
Likes: 262
From: Park Ridge New Jersey
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 2,069
Likes: 262
From: Park Ridge New Jersey
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,362
Likes: 2,730
I mentioned 'label' but I believe OE would actually been etched/stamped (whatever) into the housing. You need to disassemble to 'make pretty' but for the $$ maybe an after-market build from a reputable reseller. There are a few!! It appears you asked back in 2018 regarding maybe the same alternators.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 2,069
Likes: 262
From: Park Ridge New Jersey
back then I was getting parts ready, polishing and what not. I do a damn good job with steel wool and metal polish, but with the openings on the alternator I was afraid to get pieces of steel wool inside the unit.
With a new/rebuilt unit I figured the case in clean and would just need some polish
\Now, I'm ready ($$) to put it all together
With a new/rebuilt unit I figured the case in clean and would just need some polish
\Now, I'm ready ($$) to put it all together
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Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
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back then I was getting parts ready, polishing and what not. I do a damn good job with steel wool and metal polish, but with the openings on the alternator I was afraid to get pieces of steel wool inside the unit.
With a new/rebuilt unit I figured the case in clean and would just need some polish
\Now, I'm ready ($$) to put it all together
With a new/rebuilt unit I figured the case in clean and would just need some polish
\Now, I'm ready ($$) to put it all together
Buy a pair of housings, polish and have a 'local' do internals and assemble. I'd think less $$$ than either choice you mention. Housings $50 or less for both and quality internals are quite inexpensive. Talk to a 'local' regarding assembly if you want to avoid that.
Last edited by WVZR-1; Apr 28, 2021 at 10:58 AM.