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hi everyone - this is a 2 parter - feel like a dumb and dumber
after putting everything back together after fixing the fuel lines removing the a/c (for a noisy delete pulley - another story). replaced hoses and cleaned the main part of the throttle body (it was all I had a gasket for at the time). I went to fill and burp the system with one of those fancy fillers that fit on top of the radiator cap https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-...ree-funnel-606. and ran the car for a while waiting for the level to drop. it did not seem to and the fluid in the container was naturally getting warmer - the dash temp got to 180 after about 1-1-/2 hours plus idling in the garage - on one hand I thought that might be good that it seemed to be taking a while on the other - I was concerned as I had only put in about 2 gallons of fluid (I thought there should be more?) - there was no more air bubbles coming up so I feel like that part went ok - I am not sure about it being full.
dummy #2 - did I mess something up with the throttle body - as the idle was staying at 12-1300 at idle - ?
really want to get through this to enjoy some warm weather IN the car rather than under it
That's after a complete flush. Meaning refilling coolant in an absolutely, completely, positively, unequivocally empty system.
Unless you pulled the knock sensors, you've probably got at least a gallon of the old stuff already in there. At least.
I always pop the thermostat out and fill the block there.
Not sure about your idle adjustment, there's outliers to different years for adjustment/resetting so far as I know, so surely someone else who is more experienced than me wit hthat stuff can help out with that.
thanks - i will go at the coolant again - try another empty - refill cycle - i found it looks like 14-1/2 qts - I am going to re-check vac lines again as well - wonder if I missed one putting stuff together
does anyone know what the box/module/relay/sensor thing is inside the orange box in the top photo? whenever I remove either of the vac lines highlighted in red that lead to it, my newly acquired rattle goes away - as soon as the lines are re-connected the rattle returns. I was checking for any vacuum leaks as I was looking for the problem with the 1200 rpm idle - (yes this weekend I am following the you tube for the code and tps correction - the rattle sound started to concern me as well - I removed the belt and tried spinning each accessory to see if any made noise - the tensioner made a little the air pump did not move as freely as the others and seemed to make a fair amount of noise with the belt on as I checked with the stethoscope
The coolant amount seems right, but I've never had a SBC that idled above 800 rpm Most were right at 600..
Early on I had idle issues with mine, it at times sat around 1700 rpm's. Found if you tapped the iac with a plastic faced hammer the idle would drop to 600-700 rpms. Replaced the IAC valve and all has been good since.
Just some FYI.
thanks - I will try that as well - I bought a new gasket kit for the entire tb just in case - tps or iac - is the IAC rebuildable - or not even worth it - ?
ok - update did a quick look and for the heck of it pushed on the IAC electronic connection to make sure it was on there fully and tight - idle dropped and stayed from 7-720 - is that more correct?