1992 with clutch problem
Thread Starter
7th Gear
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
1992 with clutch problem
I have a 1992 , 6 speed, with 74,000 miles. This week I had a problem getting the car in gear, and also, with clutch fully depressed, and coming to a stop in first gear, the car wanted to continue going forward, like the clutch is not engaging properly. A friend who sold me the car in 2014, said he had just replaced the clutch but not the pressure plate. I have put on only 4,000 miles since I bought the ca, and since the clutch was replaced. Any ideas?
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2020
Posts: 1,355
Likes: 396
From: Northwest Ohio
Clutch hydraulics are leaking/failing and not fully disengaging the clutch from the flywheel. Do not drive it like this, it's a great way to toast your transmission.
Check your Clutch Master reservoir directly under the ECM (which is under the hood on the driver side). You unbolt the ECM, lift it out of the way and check the resevoir to make sure it is full... My guess is you will find it empty or near empty. If so you have a leaking master or slave. In order to drive it, top off with DOT3 fluid and use the ranger method to bleed it (google) and to attempt to get the air out of the system. That should restore your pedal while you wait to repair the actual problem. Then, if you are careful, monitor the level in the reservoir and keep it topped off until you can fix and it should be safe to drive for a bit like this.
The master often leaks INTO the cabin so nothing ends up on the ground (so check for wetness in the foam/below where the shaft from the clutch pedal goes to the master in the footwell) or the slave leaks into the bell housing. If you confirm this is the problem, replace the clutch master, slave and I suggest the braided steel line as well. Definitely replace the master and slave together...
Check your Clutch Master reservoir directly under the ECM (which is under the hood on the driver side). You unbolt the ECM, lift it out of the way and check the resevoir to make sure it is full... My guess is you will find it empty or near empty. If so you have a leaking master or slave. In order to drive it, top off with DOT3 fluid and use the ranger method to bleed it (google) and to attempt to get the air out of the system. That should restore your pedal while you wait to repair the actual problem. Then, if you are careful, monitor the level in the reservoir and keep it topped off until you can fix and it should be safe to drive for a bit like this.
The master often leaks INTO the cabin so nothing ends up on the ground (so check for wetness in the foam/below where the shaft from the clutch pedal goes to the master in the footwell) or the slave leaks into the bell housing. If you confirm this is the problem, replace the clutch master, slave and I suggest the braided steel line as well. Definitely replace the master and slave together...
Last edited by pedricd; Jul 9, 2021 at 03:01 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2020
Posts: 1,355
Likes: 396
From: Northwest Ohio
Is your clutch reservoir low/empty? Most likely culprit is the clutch hydraulics and there is probably air in the system now.
since there was work done on the system maybe there is a mechanical reason it’s not disengaging fully but I would think that far less likely...such as the clutch fork ball stud backing out.
again, if your buddy didn’t replace the pressure plate maybe he also skimped on replacing the hydraulics? My understanding is any time the clutch is replaced or clutch work is done the hydraulics should be replaced.
Thread Starter
7th Gear
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
So I unbolted and removed the ECM unit today and checked the hydraulic fluid. It was full.
Is there such a thing as a clutch just needing an adjustment, like in the old days when drum brakes needed an adjustment occasionally?
I'm planning on bringing it in Tuesday to the repair shop that I've used for years, and I'm hoping it's something that simple.
Is there such a thing as a clutch just needing an adjustment, like in the old days when drum brakes needed an adjustment occasionally?
I'm planning on bringing it in Tuesday to the repair shop that I've used for years, and I'm hoping it's something that simple.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2020
Posts: 1,355
Likes: 396
From: Northwest Ohio
So I unbolted and removed the ECM unit today and checked the hydraulic fluid. It was full.
Is there such a thing as a clutch just needing an adjustment, like in the old days when drum brakes needed an adjustment occasionally?
I'm planning on bringing it in Tuesday to the repair shop that I've used for years, and I'm hoping it's something that simple.
Is there such a thing as a clutch just needing an adjustment, like in the old days when drum brakes needed an adjustment occasionally?
I'm planning on bringing it in Tuesday to the repair shop that I've used for years, and I'm hoping it's something that simple.
Only other thought as mentioned is something coming loose physically but I’d think you’d have other issues (make sure your master and slave are fully tightened down and are not loose)...or perhaps the clutch disc itself is too thick (but you would have had that issue from day one)...or you could have a bending/cracked clutch fork so that it cannot fully disengage the clutch anymore...
Hydraulics are easy and cheap, the rest involve pulling the trans.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 6,314
Likes: 508
From: South-central Missouri
did you check where the rod goes through the firewall to the master?
Is your clutch reservoir low/empty? Most likely culprit is the clutch hydraulics and there is probably air in the system now.
since there was work done on the system maybe there is a mechanical reason it’s not disengaging fully but I would think that far less likely...such as the clutch fork ball stud backing out.
again, if your buddy didn’t replace the pressure plate maybe he also skimped on replacing the hydraulics? My understanding is any time the clutch is replaced or clutch work is done the hydraulics should be replaced.
Is your clutch reservoir low/empty? Most likely culprit is the clutch hydraulics and there is probably air in the system now.
since there was work done on the system maybe there is a mechanical reason it’s not disengaging fully but I would think that far less likely...such as the clutch fork ball stud backing out.
again, if your buddy didn’t replace the pressure plate maybe he also skimped on replacing the hydraulics? My understanding is any time the clutch is replaced or clutch work is done the hydraulics should be replaced.
That said, Rock Auto has served me well - never had an issue (yet) on quality built clutch hydraulic components...Just sayin!
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2020
Posts: 1,355
Likes: 396
From: Northwest Ohio
Well, considering the fact that so much crap comes from China anymore, replacing (clutch) components isn't always preferable to staying with the OE stuff.
That said, Rock Auto has served me well - never had an issue (yet) on quality built clutch hydraulic components...Just sayin!
That said, Rock Auto has served me well - never had an issue (yet) on quality built clutch hydraulic components...Just sayin!
Last edited by pedricd; Jul 14, 2021 at 11:34 AM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 2,692
Likes: 349
From: Sacramento California
Maybe someone else will chime in but the source of your problem *should* be somewhere in the clutch hydraulics especially if this just developed and was fine prior. There is no manual adjustment at all...it’s a fairly simple system...I would have expected the reservoir to be low...it’s acting like there is air in the system although it should self bleed.
Only other thought as mentioned is something coming loose physically but I’d think you’d have other issues (make sure your master and slave are fully tightened down and are not loose)...or perhaps the clutch disc itself is too thick (but you would have had that issue from day one)...or you could have a bending/cracked clutch fork so that it cannot fully disengage the clutch anymore...
Hydraulics are easy and cheap, the rest involve pulling the trans.
Only other thought as mentioned is something coming loose physically but I’d think you’d have other issues (make sure your master and slave are fully tightened down and are not loose)...or perhaps the clutch disc itself is too thick (but you would have had that issue from day one)...or you could have a bending/cracked clutch fork so that it cannot fully disengage the clutch anymore...
Hydraulics are easy and cheap, the rest involve pulling the trans.
My clutch works great but the take-up (grab) is all near the top of the pedal travel. I understand this means the disc is worn pretty thin and the clutch will require replacement soon.
Since your fluid is full and no hydraulic leaks, I would suspect a problem with the fork or fork pivot, I have read about a few people having issues here. Good luck.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2020
Posts: 1,355
Likes: 396
From: Northwest Ohio