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Wanting to make sure I'm checking this correct, using the back of a tire pressure gauge to release pressure on the fitting below, I get nothing. That means my AC system is empty and it is safe to remove the compressor?
Also, is it OK to replace the compressor and then drive it to the shop to finish the job?
Wanting to make sure I'm checking this correct, using the back of a tire pressure gauge to release pressure on the fitting below, I get nothing. That means my AC system is empty and it is safe to remove the compressor?
Also, is it OK to replace the compressor and then drive it to the shop to finish the job?
Yes, on both counts. Your system is empty, and you can replace your compressor and safely drive it to the shop. Because your system is devoid of a charge, the low pressure switch will keep the compressor from cycling. If you want to be extra sure it won't cycle (due to a suspected defective LP switch), simply unplug the low pressure switch, and let your mechanic know what you did before they evacuate and recharge your system.
OK back with more noob AC questions... First, anyone know offhand what size wrenches I need to remove the AC lines? I'm assuming there are O-rings in those connections that need to be replaced? None of mine are large enough and I'm going to pick up what I need. Second, my kit came with a bunch of green o-rings and metal ring type gaskets (with some type of black rubbery gasket in the center). Which of these to I need to install in my R134 refit? All or is this just a kit to cover various makes/models? I already know where two of the "A" O-rings go.
I use adjustable crescent wrenches. When breaking lines apart, always use two wrenches, one on the fitting you're taking off and one on the fixed line. That will keep you from damaging the line the fitting is connected to. Only replace the O rings for the fitting you break apart. You can match what you have in your lit to what's on the line you are breaking apart. Be sure to lube them with a little PAG oil before assembling the lines back together. You will have more O rings in that kit than whats needed, the kit is generic. The black washer seals are for the compressor. The R4 compressor seals on our cars look like the ones in the pic below. Those are what I needed for my replacement compressor.
The gold one goes inboard and the green one goes outboard. The red one and the adapters remain unused.
Last edited by Red86Z51; Sep 20, 2021 at 11:32 AM.
NEVER use "PAG" oil in a R134 conversion. The correct oil is polyolester. PAG reacts with residual mineral oil that remains in the system Polyolester does not. PAG is used in R134 systems that have never had mineral oil in them, ie, they have always been R-134 systems.
Thanks for that info., I was not aware of that because I have never, nor will I ever convert any of my R12 systems to 134a. The system will never cool as well after the conversion. Some may argue it will, but I've compared center vent temps on converted cars vs. non--converted cars, and the R134a loses that contest...it's just not as efficient in systems designed to run R12.
OK so now with that PAG oil comment I'm confused as that is what came with my new compressor and it states on the label for R134 "Service and Retrofit". Whats the deal? Should I use this or switch to polyolester?
Thanks, I think it is probably cheap insurance to go with the Ester then. I'm running to the auto parts store later today for a new serpentine belt so I'll pickup the oil too.
My quick AC ? is turning into a not-so-quick ? - Replaced the compressor and all the O-rings I could, had the system professionally flushed and refilled yesterday. Good news/bad news - The AC works just fine now. However, they had an issue with maybe the blend door? It was stuck and difficult to move, so no cold air was coming thru the vents. They were manually able to move the door (by accessing it thru under the hood below) and get cold air out the dash vents but said the door seems to be stuck. Maybe just needs lube (the car sat for long periods of time)? I have to pull my ECM out soon for a new PROM, can this be accessed from under the dash?
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Quick AC ?
