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Replaced clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder on an 86.
Bled the master cylinder first...used a plastic fitting and tube from output to the reservoir to prime/bleed, then connected the line.
Bled at the slave cylinder...connected hose from bleeder to small container that I use for bleeding brakes routinely. Pumped clutch pedal and could observe fluid coming through; looked great.
Verified that piston rod is in proper position between slave and clutch fork.
Tighten everything back up. Now have zero resistance at clutch pedal and further verified NOGO via bumping the starter with clutch pedal down/trans in first and car lurches forward. #grrr
Last edited by InfomanSS; Sep 28, 2021 at 07:21 PM.
I bench bled the slave, filled master and waited for it to start dripping out of the hose then connected to slave.
then pumped the daylights out of the clutch to self bleed it and followed the ranger method. Had no issues and no issue doing similar prior to replacement of master/slave when fluid got low and air got in the system.
the system self bleeds, if you follow the ranger method it should get the air out. (You can google for ranger method but essentially involves pumping a bunch, then holding the clutch pedal to the floor for a while then letting your foot slip off of the pedal so it springs back quickly, rinse and repeat).
then pumped the daylights out of the clutch to self bleed it
the system self bleeds, if you follow the ranger method it should get the air out. (You can google for ranger method but essentially involves pumping a bunch, then holding the clutch pedal to the floor for a while then letting your foot slip off of the pedal so it springs back quickly, rinse and repeat).
I just squat next to the rocker rail, reach in w/my hand and pump the pedal rapidly w/my hand to speed the process. Once I start getting pedal...probably more than a 1/4 pedal?, then I jump in the car and finish pumping w/my foot. At that point, it probably only takes ~10 more pumps or so?
Thanks @pedricd and @Tom400CFI. I must have had a pocket of air stuck at the slave. I unbolted it, pumped it with a long screwdriver, and got a lot of air out. Then I pushed the plunger in to give me some space to put in the rod and mount it to the bell housing.
IDK.... I'm done in less than that w/the pumping method.
I don't doubt that once it's all hooked up and working, it's probably easier, more fool proof maybe? But you can do it pretty fast by just pumping. No set up or put away, either.
IDK.... I'm done in less than that w/the pumping method.
I don't doubt that once it's all hooked up and working, it's probably easier, more fool proof maybe? But you can do it pretty fast by just pumping. No set up or put away, either.
I agree, I think the issue happens if you don’t bench bleed a new slave and try to bleed it installed (it’s upside down and you need to add Teflon tape to the bleed screw!!!). In fact I think trying to bleed the slave can end up adding air!
I think bench bleed and when you attach you are forced to compress the slave which pushes any big remaining air up towards the master.
I think that things might go sideways if the slave has a very large pocket of air such that it compresses down to take up a large part of throw of the pedal.... maybe there is a knee point where greater than “x” volume of air in the slave makes it almost impossible to self bleed??? Or maybe folks are not patient/following ranger method fully. Sounds like the OP may have confirmed this theory by manually compressing the slave which would push air up the line to burp out the master?