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Hello all. A few days ago I posted about a maf sensor issue and was able to get that cleared up with some cleaner and resetting the iac and tps. Car ran great! Well until it didn’t….
I’m getting a code 46, when I turn the key on I can hear the fuel pump run for a second or two. But when i try to fire it up, nothing happens. No starter click or anything. The lights don’t dim or anything. I have done some research and found it’s probably the vats system. So I ordered the “resistor kit” and hopefully that will be in tomorrow, my key is pretty severely worn so I hope that’s the issue. Would it make sense that the fuel pump would still run but the start will not engage? Or should I be looking further into things. I have tried both park and neutral to get it started and no change. Is there anyway to easily bypass the starter relay or switch so I can at least move the car out of the middle of my driveway??
I had 1989 for 24 years, and seen it all including VATS issues.
What I found, was that year ignition cylinder had TSB not letting the engine turnover. Installed ignition cylinder with the new updated according to GM and next decade never had problem with my VATS.
I would say with worn key might be your problem. A old wifes tail was take eraser and clean up the pellet, so the contacts connect.
Another problem that drove me crazy before key problem was when the engine was hot, and you **** if off after long trip, it would act like a VAT problem, but let it sit for 20 minutes it would start like nothing is wrong.
What that was the starter when hot was seizing up, and wouldn't start till it cooled down. I replaced the starter end that problem.
I had a couple of '89's over the years and spent a lot of time trying to troubleshoot and solve intermittent vats issues. Seemed no matter what parts I replaced, it always came back. In the end I installed the vats bypass modules they sell on ebay and never had a problem again. Jumpimg the starter wont work as the ecu wont fire the injectors without the vats signal.
I had 1989 for 24 years, and seen it all including VATS issues.
What I found, was that year ignition cylinder had TSB not letting the engine turnover. Installed ignition cylinder with the new updated according to GM and next decade never had problem with my VATS.
I would say with worn key might be your problem. A old wifes tail was take eraser and clean up the pellet, so the contacts connect.
Another problem that drove me crazy before key problem was when the engine was hot, and you **** if off after long trip, it would act like a VAT problem, but let it sit for 20 minutes it would start like nothing is wrong.
What that was the starter when hot was seizing up, and wouldn't start till it cooled down. I replaced the starter end that problem.
You mention your '89 being involved in an ignition cylinder TSB frequently. I doubt an '89 ever involved in a TSB related to ignition cylinder.
All '88+ should have been delivered with newer and from the TSB - TSB mentions an '87 VIN for newer ignition cylinders to production.
Notice: Vehicles built after VIN H5120579 have the improved lock cylinder and longer keys in them.
I’m getting a code 46, << This is indicating an active VATS disable.
When I turn the key on I can hear the fuel pump run for a second or two.<< Completely normal. VATS does not affect the fuel pump or the 2-second "prime"
But when i try to fire it up, nothing happens. No starter click or anything.<< VATS interrupts both the starter and the fuel injectors.
Would it make sense that the fuel pump would still run but the start will not engage? << 100% yes, makes sense. This is the way VATS works.
Is there anyway to easily bypass the starter relay or switch so I can at least move the car out of the middle of my driveway?? << Well, you can get under the car and jump the starter solenoid. But it still won't run. VATS also inhibits the fuel injectors. That's what the Code 46 means "No fuel-enable signal received".
When you get the resistor kit, and install the correct resistance, this should restore the starter and fuel enable.
Awesome!! Kit should be here tomorrow, and I’m getting another key cut in the morning so I can at least have a spare key for the car. I’ll let everyone know how it goes.
I really thought I fried something when I was cleaning the maf sensor and adjusting the tps and iac. Not quite as easy as just plugging in the scanner but the code read outs on this car definitely sent me in the right direction I hope!!
If you have a VOM, measure the resistance of the key pellet, and of the bypass resistor. they need to be within 5% of each other, but will probably be much closer. If they are not close enough, you probably have the wrong bypass resistor. Checking costs nothing, and can prevent a lot of aggravation.
The proof of your diagnosis is the Code 46. Good for you for checking, AND reporting the results. The codes are powerful diagnostic aids. The cause of many problems can be narrowed down quickly if the codes are checked. So many threads on here drag on because the diagnostics aren't used, or aren't interpreted properly. Again, good on you for using the codes.
Awesome sauce. I got that tip written down and will check that BEFORE I solder everything up!! About 5 years ago I bought a fluke multimeter and have found so many uses for it, definitely a lifesaver for this car!
I think I have a issue with the module itself. I tried both the new correct cut key from gm. Plus I tried using the correct resistors and nothing will work. If I bypass the starter relay the starter works fine but I’m still not getting any fuel. I checked the connections on the vats module and everything seems tight. Any other ideas? I see there is by pass modules. But I’d rather not spend 300 bucks if I don’t have too. Thanks!
There is devices for 'Fuel Enable' - IHBD has experience with a less than $20 solution that most have used successfully to address 'Fuel Enable' - I'd imagine he'll stop by soon. What would be interesting if you use his solution is to record/post back the Hz value that you actually used that accomplished successful 'FE'. Document your install!!!
Yours being an '89 maybe someone will actually post with complete install instructions. I've seen many mention they've used successfully but NEVER with a procedure!! For some/most maybe it took several attempts and don't recall!!
Since your VATS module is exposed what is the part # on the component?
There is devices for 'Fuel Enable' - IHBD has experience with a less than $20 solution that most have used successfully to address 'Fuel Enable' - I'd imagine he'll stop by soon. What would be interesting if you use his solution is to record/post back the Hz value that you actually used that accomplished successful 'FE'. Document your install!!!
Yours being an '89 maybe someone will actually post with complete install instructions. I've seen many mention they've used successfully but NEVER with a procedure!! For some/most maybe it took several attempts and don't recall!!
Since your VATS module is exposed what is the part # on the component?
ok. I have found a few of those fuel enable kits on eBay and Amazon. That along with jumping my starter solenoid under the dash should make it run correct?
ok. I have found a few of those fuel enable kits on eBay and Amazon. That along with jumping my starter solenoid under the dash should make it run correct?
Yes unless there's an ECM issue I believe. Since you've got everything exposed maybe you just jumper your resistor directly to the pins of your module. A6 (brown) and B2 (yellow) and try. The FSM should have diagnostics.
Since it ran previous to the code 46 I'm assuming you measured resistance of old key first, had a second key and purchased a resistor 'kit' of the same value? Any chance of misreading that original key?
** Silly question maybe - how long did you wait between attempts of the key and then the resistor?
Yes unless there's an ECM issue I believe. Since you've got everything exposed maybe you just jumper your resistor directly to the pins of your module. A6 (brown) and B2 (yellow) and try. The FSM should have diagnostics.
Since it ran previous to the code 46 I'm assuming you measured resistance of old key first, had a second key and purchased a resistor 'kit' of the same value? Any chance of misreading that original key?
** Silly question maybe - how long did you wait between attempts of the key and then the resistor?
Good points. I waited 5 minutes before attempts. I tried going directly to the plug on the vats module. and I had the dealer run the machine on the key as well as my multi meter.
Most importantly, do you still have a Code 46? If = Yes, the module isn't sending the fuel enable signal, or the wire between the module and the ECM is open. I think it is Dk Blue.
Here is the Signal Generator from timers.shop $18 plus shipping. All the required wires are at the existing VATS module. Hot in Run, Ground, and fuel enable signal to the ECM.
For the Signal Generator (from their website)"
RED: 12V ignition of accessories
WHITE: Fuel Enable wire. 50hz or 30hz.
BLUE/GREEN: Control wire. If none of the wires connected to the ground then the output is 50 Hz
suitable for most of the cars. Some cars (90-93) require 30 Hz. In that case, connect the Blue wire to
the Ground.
BLACK: Ground
The 30Hz or 50Hz thing is pretty easy. Leave both the blue and green disconnected this is 50Hz. Try it. If it starts, you're done. If it doesn't, and you have a Code 46, turn off the key. Connect the blue wire to the black ground wire. Try it again. It should work. I vaguely recall that the 165 ECM is 50Hz.
Reading that it says LS1 and LT1, but with 1989 they have L98 engine! I don't think that works!
Well folks. It runs again. If anyone needs it for future reference. You must ground out the blue wire And leave the green unplugged for a 89.
Unfortunately it was somewhat short lived as my idle issue has came back. Can anyone tell me if this is the correct maf sensor for my 89? It looks different then all the other ones I see for it.
also does anyone have any experience with the Arizona marine and speed 52mm throttle body? I’m thinking of going back to stock as I can’t get the throttle position sensor to reach 5v at wide open throttle and I believe that’s causing low performance.
1989 VATS Problem!!
