Alright, I’ve read a few of the past posts on this issue, but wanted to see if anyone has any more helpful input or ideas.
I just drive my 87 c4 to walgreens with no issues, and when i went to leave, it wouldn’t start. Key turns and car powers up (battery voltage stays over 9 volts) and the engine makes no noise. There is a clicking sound coming from the dash though.
Im thinking it’s the VATs system failing or maybe an ignition switch issue?
I am in a hurry to fix it, as I daily drive it and go to work everyday. Autozone has an ignition switch that says it’ll fit , but I’m not sure if i believe it. If it will work as a temporary solution I’d be willing to do it anyhow.
Any information helps!

 

Is the 'SECURITY' light lit? That would hint VATS.

The SER (Starter Enable Relay) is in the center of dash! Do you have the FSM (Factory Service Manual) for your car? Ignition switch fits many GM's, I would expect it on their shelf BUT not likely a solution. See if you can reach under the dash and stroke the ignition rod to get CRANK - this would work if the rack & rod from ignition cylinder to the ignition switch had failed. I wouldn't expect click from dash if this were the issue.

 

I do have a manual! I will try to get it to crank when i get off tonight! Thanks for the info, will update.

 

If it's the FSM then center of dash 'content' will be found 8A-201-7. If it's not the FSM no guarantee where or if. If you don't have the 'electrical' section of the FSM it's likely not there.

 

Had the VATS fail on my 96 impala. Rather than replace the ignition module, I just read the resistance of my key, tracked down the VATS wire (it was white, as I recall) and spliced in a couple of radioshack resistors. My key read 76 ohms (can't believe I can still remember that) so I got a 50 ohm resistor and a 25 ohm resistor and connected them across the two wires coming form the key. No more VATS, but no more no start, either.

 

I don’t believe 9 volts is enough.

 

I was thinking I might make sure the battery connections are good and the battery has enough power before starting anything else. I was thinking 10 volts is usually the normal?

 

10 is way low...you want to be in mid 12s.... I suspect battery, easy to have tested.

Does it start if jumped?

 

I guess you are not a car guy. First to try is to jump it. 10v is very low
It's called a 12v system for a reason

 

Oh ok cool! I will test that out asap!
Yeah wouldn’t say I’m a car guy. Just bought this corvette at 19 with cash! Thought it would be a fun experience to learn from and create some cool stories. Appreciate all the love from you “car guys” though!

 

That’s awesome! Hopefully it’s only the battery! Let us know what you find or if you need further assistance...and ignore the needless/non-constructive jabs, someone must be cranky (unfortunately not your car )

Also make sure when you get it running that the alternator is charging the battery, you can take it to an autozone etc... to have them test but you should also be able to tell from the volt gauge, it should be reading around 14 volts or more when running.

 

Keep us posted!

 

Yes, but under load of the starter, internal battery resistance will cause some drop in voltage output. And, especially if there is the least bit of corrosion on any starter-related terminals.

OP Note: Some voltage drop during starter operation is normal as result of series resistance (battery, cables, connectors, etc) combined w/ high current. However, there is a minimum voltage required to keep the starter solenoid energized. And, when the solenoid switch completes the circuit to the starter windings, if the combination of the series resistance is too high, the voltage drop will cause the voltage to dip below that necessary to keep the solenoid activated - and the solenoid fails to hold the switch closed - and it "clicks" open. Then there is no current, thus no drop in voltage & immediately the 12+ volts returns and the solenoid once again latches the switch to the starter windings - only to have the voltage drop again below minimum for the solenoid to work. The on/off of the solenoid switch will cycle several times a second. Thus the clicking or "chatter".

One of the other less common (but significant) sources of voltage drops is the starter enable switch on the clutch pedal (assuming a standard trans). Remedies include replacing the switch, jumper across the switch contacts, or installing a auxiliary relay (usually behind the battery) to transfer the high current load from the clutch safety switch to the auxiliary relay instead.