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I'm trying to get an '87 Coupe back on the road. The fuel pump will not run (It's new) and a lot of other things aren't happening either. Anyway, I pulled the battery to get to the fusible links to check them out just to make sure. This one in the photo looks like it got rather hot at some time. I'd like to know where it goes to test why it got so hot. My question is, how do I tell which link is which? Which is H, which is B etc.? This one in question is red, right off the battery, goes through that connector that is rather melted, then into that rubber section (is that the link) then to orange wire. Trouble is, there must be 15 orange wires. Any info would help a lot. Thank you.
Do you have the FSM? If yes then locate the cooling fan relay and follow 'red' towards the positive battery cable. If AUX fan also from relay to 'fusible link' should be red. Find OPS, Fuel pump relay and Mass Air Relay etc, those orange should lead you to another that will then go 'red'. FSM 8A-10-0. Should be pretty straight forward. 'H' - 'E' & 'D' should be the only directly from the batter + cable. The rest would originate from the 'jump block'!
Do you have the FSM? If yes then locate the cooling fan relay and follow 'red' towards the positive battery cable. If AUX fan also from relay to 'fusible link' should be red. Find OPS, Fuel pump relay and Mass Air Relay etc, those orange should lead you to another that will then go 'red'. FSM 8A-10-0. Should be pretty straight forward. 'H' - 'E' & 'D' should be the only directly from the batter + cable. The rest would originate from the 'jump block'!
Good catch on the "only three come from the +". Yea, that does narrow it down a bit. Would have been nice if GM would have labeled them with a letter to match the drawing.
Thank you for the reply.
Another question though. Those large, round, rubber parts. Are those the fuse links? Also, that partially melted part looks like some sort of a connection, but, I don't see on the diagram any of the wires having a "connection" before the fuse link. Hummmm.
An '87 original positive cable would have 2 similar connectors I believe.
These 2 part #'s from the FSM wiring diagram are those
If you wanted to correct those, the part #'s are actually still serviced 'Weather-Pack' one a single 'wire to wire' the other a two 'wire to wire'. These you could buy 'local' from many vendors. You can see also in your snapshot where 2 wires are likely originally. It's difficult to sort wires using your snapshot but I believe you certainly could.
A Delphi 12015791 is the 'mating connector' for the one wire. A Delphi 12015792 would be 'mating' for the 2 wire. Weather-Pack terminals and seals are everywhere.
*** If you have no + battery voltage @ fuel pump relay check both sides of that 'connector'. If nothing passing through fix it.
An '87 original positive cable would have 2 similar connectors I believe.
These 2 part #'s from the FSM wiring diagram are those
If you wanted to correct those, the part #'s are actually still serviced 'Weather-Pack' one a single 'wire to wire' the other a two 'wire to wire'. These you could buy 'local' from many vendors. You can see also in your snapshot where 2 wires are likely originally. It's difficult to sort wires using your snapshot but I believe you certainly could.
A Delphi 12015791 is the 'mating connector' for the one wire. A Delphi 12015792 would be 'mating' for the 2 wire. Weather-Pack terminals and seals are everywhere.
*** If you have no + battery voltage @ fuel pump relay check both sides of that 'connector'. If nothing passing through fix it.
Long story short, the problem was the fuel pump. I bought this car back in Oct. '21. The fuel sending/pump unit came out in rusted out pieces. I knew I was going to need new, so I bought new. I'm just now getting to the point of trying to start this car so it is too late to return the part. Both the pump and the sending unit do not work. 12V to the pump and it will not spin. Zero ohms through the lever sensor in all positions. I'm just out the $300 for that unit. I also bought the fuel filler rubber boot and it came in the wrong size, AND the front exhaust "Y" that came in with the right up-sweep about 5° off to the center so I had to cut the pipe to rotate it and use a slip on coupling. ALL of these items came from CARiD and were TOTAL JUNK. IMHO, avoid them like a plague.
As for the fusible links, I'm going to get rid of them and put in Maxi-fuses. All of the car companies have switched to them in their new products and it makes sense. Easier to see where the problem in and quick to replace.
To do MAXI as you mentioned and to do it 'well' is a task! A quality 'Multi MAXI Box' isn't inexpensive. Sorting your issues with those mentioned and doing the repair of Weather-Pack in parts is likely less than 15$. It would be very straight forward and simple. A 'Multi Maxi Box' quality install will require much effort and many $$$. Your experience w/CARID - I don't buy there so ..............
Correcting the pump and sender tree issues should be also not difficult but certainly maybe time consuming.
****A question - didn't you have an issue with ignition to lock function, went back to confirming 'park/lock' adjustment and the issue was 'fixed'?
There are in-line Maxifuse holders that, I think, would be an almost exact replacement. Please correct me if wrong. They have rubber boots that fit over them for a weather/water seal. A new pump/sender unit is on order. I'll test this one as soon as it comes in.
The ignition key issue was a brain fart thing. Ya gotta put the gear in "park" to get the key out. Duhhh! Yes, you could say the issue was 'fixed', or you could say 'Wake up, dummy.' I still have an issue with the steering wheel, however. The wheel won't lock cuz the locking pin won't pop out far enough the engage the locking ring. I'll deal with that further down the road though.
What brand/part number did CARID send you for the sender/tree and pump assembly? I'd try to work with what you've got vs spending more $$$. What brand sender/tree and pump did you order this 2d time?
What brand/part number did CARID send you for the sender/tree and pump assembly? I'd try to work with what you've got vs spending more $$$. What brand sender/tree and pump did you order this 2d time?
I put the sender/tree in the tank 2+ months ago so I don't remember brand name. However I also ordered from them, at the same time, the front 'Y' section of the exhaust. It came in with the up-sweeps about 5° off to the center so I had to cut them to rotate them to fit, then add slip on couplings to connect to rest of pipe. Also ordered the rubber boot for the fuel filler section and it came in wrong size. Three out of three items and all were junk. The new sender/pump unit I've ordered from Volunteer Vet and they are telling me it all Delco stuff. You can be sure it will be tested before it goes into the tank.
No comment regarding the Maxi doesn't sound good. I respect your opinion because you've been at this a lot longer than me and you have been most helpful to me in the past. If I'm about to mess up, lemme know. Yes, a full on fuse box etc. would be better than the in-line style but there is just no room for that. It crowded enough behind that battery as it is. However, if there is a down side please advise me what it is.
In your picture, that is the disconnect and fuse link for the ECM power. That connector can be disconnected to clear codes, which doesn't interrupt power to the clock or radio memory.
The "melted" junction is a Metripack 280 Sealed, 1-cavity connector. The actual fuse link is the "U"-shaped piece of wire. The little tube on the left "02 5/8" is a splice. The orange wire goes to the ECM.
This is a comparison of Metri-Pack 280 and Weather-Pack 1 cavity 'wire to wire'. The first (TOP) is MP280, the 2d (LOWER) is WP
Identify Fuse Links
