I have the two (two element) lead plugs that key together, and the two rivet mount near the block. The leading edge of the coil has no rivets or holes. It just rests on the mount. The rears do the work. 8th vin digit is P



I got stuck pulling into a parking lot yesterday, about four miles from home. Thing just went down like a shutoff. Rolled into a nice space and checked things out. Had fuel & rail pressure, went through the particular fuses involved. Checked the two "front" fuse packs as well. Turning over fine and highly suspected a no spark condition. Had limited tools, but was able to drop the negative battery terminal for five minutes, in case PKE was in the game here. No help. After almost an hour, I did a second round of working any visible connections of the ignition process, the thing started right up.

I purchased the car at 105k miles so I'll replace the riveted (original) coil and clean and refresh the ICM sink with Arctic White thermo paste that I have ordered. This service is due anyway.
I really think this really acts like a crank position sensor problem, but I cannot find clarification on the location, though I suspect up by the timing cover on driver side..

So that's the backstory. I thought a post here said the correct coil was 19418995. ( an update of the 19418996? ) Then the D503 numbers keep coming up. Auto Bone or Disadvantage Auto last night was clearly showing one with the (wrong) single connector.
Somebody want to advise me in the right direction here? Thanks !

 

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Yeah I either contributed TMI there or wasn't clear. I am cleaning the sink and refreshing the paste. I do suspect the ICM overheated. This is not a coil problem. I'm replacing the coil because it's almost 30 years old. i was quite interested in the cps and you say it does but only pings errors that's fine. On a 2000 Saturn LW300 when it fails you lose spark. But that's not the case here apparently. And I have no codes.

I have meters, but usually do not take them to the supermarket. This has happened once on the road. Everything will test fine in the driveway.
I'm on board with just pulling the ICM out for test. No sure how ambitiously they'll heat stress it, but maybe they wont have to.

Part number #19418995. I'll run with that. Thanks for the info.