Re-Installing half shafts. The most impossible task. HELP. Help.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 259
Likes: 33
From: Louisville KY
Re-Installing half shafts. The most impossible task. HELP. Help.
92 ZF6
No matter what I do I cannot get the halfshafts back into the car after installing new ujoints. All of the other write ups and videos say just remove the outer tie rod and slide in/out. Well I am not having the same easy going time. After removing the tie rod my suspension does not budge. This is by far the most impossible job. I am putting them in diff side first.
I removed the outer tie rod and the spindle rod bolt, I can only get the knuckle to move about 1/2 inch before it sets right back into place and nothing is aligned, everything is binding, my ujoint caps are falling off. This is a nightmare.
Is there some trick I am not aware of? Is it just a lot of trial and error? Do I need to remove all of the suspension pieces to get proper clearance?
No matter what I do I cannot get the halfshafts back into the car after installing new ujoints. All of the other write ups and videos say just remove the outer tie rod and slide in/out. Well I am not having the same easy going time. After removing the tie rod my suspension does not budge. This is by far the most impossible job. I am putting them in diff side first.
I removed the outer tie rod and the spindle rod bolt, I can only get the knuckle to move about 1/2 inch before it sets right back into place and nothing is aligned, everything is binding, my ujoint caps are falling off. This is a nightmare.
Is there some trick I am not aware of? Is it just a lot of trial and error? Do I need to remove all of the suspension pieces to get proper clearance?
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2021
Posts: 183
Likes: 41
From: N.E. Ohio
It takes patience and persistence in large amounts. It helps that when the tie rod is disconnected to have a helper pull outward on the bottom half of the hub assembly to gain just a bit more wiggle room.
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,925
Likes: 441
From: Albuquerque NM
When I did my half shaft u joints a few months back on my 1989, I got them in and out by unbolting the rear lower camber arm from the knuckle, as well as undoing the springs, and what I think are called the trailing arms that are attached to the knuckle with ball joints.
I then layed underneath the car all contorted like,, and used my feet legs to push the knuckle down and sorta back (against bushing pressure) and used my arms to get the shafts back in..
It was a matter of persistence and muscle and a little bit of geometric problem solving, but all in all closer to moving furniture through a doorway than to rocket science (I am neither a professional mover nor rocket scientist)
Good luck!
I then layed underneath the car all contorted like,, and used my feet legs to push the knuckle down and sorta back (against bushing pressure) and used my arms to get the shafts back in..
It was a matter of persistence and muscle and a little bit of geometric problem solving, but all in all closer to moving furniture through a doorway than to rocket science (I am neither a professional mover nor rocket scientist)
Good luck!
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 21,543
Likes: 3,216
From: Park City Utah
Only "trick" I know is that you can slip the ears on the shaft through the yoke on the diff at an angle to reduce the space you need between the knuckle and the diff yoke...but you still need to get the knuckle farther away from the diff, either way.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 259
Likes: 33
From: Louisville KY
You need to get the KNUCKLE (the car doesn't have a spindle) away from the differential. How are YOU going to do that? You can pull on it w/a device...like a ratcheting strap or come-a-long, or you can disconnect suspension pieces until you can move it easily enough by hand.
Only "trick" I know is that you can slip the ears on the shaft through the yoke on the diff at an angle to reduce the space you need between the knuckle and the diff yoke...but you still need to get the knuckle farther away from the diff, either way.
Only "trick" I know is that you can slip the ears on the shaft through the yoke on the diff at an angle to reduce the space you need between the knuckle and the diff yoke...but you still need to get the knuckle farther away from the diff, either way.
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2022
Posts: 29
Likes: 4
From: Idaho/Utah
do you have the springs unloaded? i always take the spring bolt of the knuckle and then put a jack under the knuckle at the camber rod to support it. when the suspension is hanging the camber rod and strut rods are on a bind so if you raise it up to normal ride height the knuckle with move in and out alot easier
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 259
Likes: 33
From: Louisville KY
do you have the springs unloaded? i always take the spring bolt of the knuckle and then put a jack under the knuckle at the camber rod to support it. when the suspension is hanging the camber rod and strut rods are on a bind so if you raise it up to normal ride height the knuckle with move in and out alot easier
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Racer
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 284
Likes: 99
2021 C4 of the Year - Modified Finalist
I actually spent 7 hours doing this today. Couldn't get one of them to seat correctly in its groove behind the hub. Lots of cussing and yelling. Finally got it, and my car still makes a popping noise when taking off😞😞 If you notice, most of those videos show them take them apart, but not reinstall. Now I know why.....
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2022
Posts: 29
Likes: 4
From: Idaho/Utah
I actually spent 7 hours doing this today. Couldn't get one of them to seat correctly in its groove behind the hub. Lots of cussing and yelling. Finally got it, and my car still makes a popping noise when taking off😞😞 If you notice, most of those videos show them take them apart, but not reinstall. Now I know why.....
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 259
Likes: 33
From: Louisville KY
The popping sound comes from the splines shifting inside the wheel bearing and axle shaft. Make sure you have the washer between the Inside of the bearing and the axle(replacements are no longer available, they were originally Teflon coated, I use anaerobic sealer on my old ones), extra grease on the splines and torque the axle nut to 200 ft lbs, gm says a little lower but some of us have had good results at that spec. Too bad I didn't catch you when you had the halfshafts out, would have been a lot less work
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 259
Likes: 33
From: Louisville KY
do you have the springs unloaded? i always take the spring bolt of the knuckle and then put a jack under the knuckle at the camber rod to support it. when the suspension is hanging the camber rod and strut rods are on a bind so if you raise it up to normal ride height the knuckle with move in and out alot easier
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2022
Posts: 29
Likes: 4
From: Idaho/Utah
Hmmmmmm. My car was making the same popping noise. It was happening after being parked, when the car first starts moving back or forward. One of the reasons why I am replacing the u-joints. I wonder if I am having the same issue. I made sure that the axle nut was at 164 ft-lbs. You think I should tighten it more?