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What’s the best diy option to patch my trans tunnel from my t56 swap? I’ve never worked with fiberglass but I’ve read a fiberglass kit or smc kit should work? Or can I rivet a piece of sheet metal in place?
How big is the hole?
Is the hole shaped in a curve like the tunnel or is it flat?
Is the finished location going to be visible or covered?
I have done a lot of glassing of boat transoms and stringers with polyester resin and glass mat. Messy, but strong.
I like working with epoxy resin the most.
I used a piece of stainless steel that I had already but aluminum should work also. I pop riveted it into place and sealed around the edges. It's covered with carpet so you can't see it.
How big is the hole?
Is the hole shaped in a curve like the tunnel or is it flat?
Is the finished location going to be visible or covered?
I have done a lot of glassing of boat transoms and stringers with polyester resin and glass mat. Messy, but strong.
I like working with epoxy resin the most.
Dont have any pics but it’s pretty damn big. Lol it’ll be covered with the carpet but still it’s big enough that I’d like to fix it the correct way.
How big is the hole?
Is the hole shaped in a curve like the tunnel or is it flat?
Is the finished location going to be visible or covered?
I have done a lot of glassing of boat transoms and stringers with polyester resin and glass mat. Messy, but strong.
I like working with epoxy resin the most.
ive never played with anything like that or body work. Is it beginner friendly?
I used a piece of stainless steel that I had already but aluminum should work also. I pop riveted it into place and sealed around the edges. It's covered with carpet so you can't see it.
ok this sounds like the easiest approach-so no issues riveting metal into the surrounding fiberglass?
I used a piece of stainless steel that I had already but aluminum should work also. I pop riveted it into place and sealed around the edges. It's covered with carpet so you can't see it.
personally i would build a template shape from cardboard, then woukd use smc compatible resin to make the shape, and then smc panel bond to bond it to the tunnel. you can predrill holes for rivets but use smc compatible panel bond as the true fastner.
If you go with fiberglass, use West System epoxy resin. This will bite to almost anything, no fumes, and is not flammable. If you have access to both sides, use blue tape, cardboard, and wax paper to cover the hole from the underside in the shape you want (after of course prepping the inside for adhesion) lay up the glass 1 layer at a time until you get the thickness, and strength you want. From there undercoat the underside, and seal the inside if you want.
I have used epoxy and poly resin successfully in strength critical applications. Cost is the big factor. Epoxy is pricey, but really good. Since your job is not large, I would go with epoxy with a couple of layers of fiberglass mat where the strands are randomized. Like Foster said, epoxy has excellent adhesion. If you do it right, this would give you the most strength and durability. I would do it like Foster says.
be sure to ask west or whoever supplies you, if the product is compatible with smc (as opposed to fiberglass). wont get into details here but just be sure to double check this.
fyi i saw on mirrock corvette today he sells this exact part of the tunnel for this swap. cheap too. id just buy it, and graft it in with smc panel bond adhesive and rivets.
[QUOTE=VikingTrad3r;1605760746]fyi i saw on mirrock corvette today he sells this exact part of the tunnel for this swap. cheap too. id just buy it, and graft it in with smc panel bond adhesive and rivets.[/QUOTE
believe he has a zf6 tunnel on eBay right now-not sure how similar it would be
Dug up some pictures of the project, used JB Weld Plastic Weld (black material) and a donor ZF Trans tunnel.
How did you figure out the location for the ZF tunnel piece? I only ask because I will be starting the ZF swap (for the old 4+3) in my 85 in a couple if weeks.