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Ball joint boot replace 1990

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Old May 1, 2023 | 11:24 PM
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Default Ball joint boot replace 1990

I have a 1990 with 34k pampered miles. The upper and lower ball joint boots are cracked. The joints are tight with no play. I have new ball joints but wondering if it is worth the aggravation of full replacement if the boots can just be replaced. I bought a set of the Energy Suspension boots but wondering if they really fit and work properly. I looking for real experience with them as to fit and sealing. Do the old boots just pull off? Any info would help. Thank you
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Old May 2, 2023 | 11:40 AM
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I will say, unless you have the proper tools to do the job, get professional, easy for them, novice not that easy.

Has for the ripped boot, it will get dirty very fast, is why they can't changed in time will damage the ball joint.
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Old May 2, 2023 | 01:10 PM
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Thank you for the reply. I have the correct tools and ability. I have brand new Moog upper ball joints. I also found NOS lower arms complete with rubber bushings (not urethane) with factory ball joints attached. I polish all the aluminum suspension and maintain grease in the current joints but it eventually oozes out. I am always maintaining the grease and cleaning up. I had a slightly bad wheel bearing in one side so I replaced them both. While I had the car lifted and apart I cleaned again around the upper boots. I really did not want to replace the upper ball joints and lower arms right now. I have sophisticated alignment equipment in my garage but it takes some effort to setup the rotary tables and the laser gaging. I wanted to just brake the upper ball joint free and install the urethane Energy Suspension boots. I am just unclear how easy the old boots are to remove and are the replacements a secure fit. Looking for anyone with hands on experience.
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Old May 2, 2023 | 01:15 PM
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Old May 2, 2023 | 06:47 PM
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Originally Posted by 19Conv90
That is one clean engine compartment!
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Old May 2, 2023 | 08:14 PM
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I have done lots of ball joints. My opinion is you're going to ruin or at least put a lot of wear on one removing it. New ones are very tight and barely move. Every one I have removed, even if not bad, has moved back and forth with ease. All the work is in separating it so might as well put a new one on.
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Old May 2, 2023 | 08:26 PM
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Have you had issues knocking the rivets out?
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Old May 2, 2023 | 10:58 PM
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I say replace the boots if the joints are still tight. Anything you get today, even Moog, is chineasm.
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Old May 3, 2023 | 12:24 AM
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The recent ones I've done I have bought a arms with the ball joints already in them. I haven't messed with riveted ones in years. I would just drill them out.
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Old May 4, 2023 | 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by 1bdvet
That is one clean engine compartment!
Agree, super clean engine bay! Well done!

On a separate note, OP, would you mind sharing a link for those headlights you have on your C4?

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Old May 4, 2023 | 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by 19Conv90
Have you had issues knocking the rivets out?
I did all balljoints. Wasn't hard but I worked very carefully as I didn't want any marks on the A-arms. I've used the generic sized Energy Suspension boots in the back. They've fit fine.
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Old May 4, 2023 | 04:35 PM
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I have removed those rivets and can validate, it’s a pain! With that low miles, I don’t think you have anything to lose in trying to replace the boot only.
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Old May 4, 2023 | 05:35 PM
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I popped the upper ball joints out and just changed the boots. The joints had no noticeable play. I have owned the car since 1992 and religiously greased the joints. I did not replace the boots on the lower arms. Ends up only one side had a slight tear. I was concerned that the replacement Energy Suspension lower boots looked a little short for a good seal. I left them alone for now. As I noted earlier I have new OEM lower arms complete with bushings and ball joints. I bought them a few years back when I came across them.
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